Continuation of the 242 16VTi build

[t8fanning]

T8 I had no idea you worked for Tial. I had originally thought I'd do nuts and bolts for the manifold. But then I saw the description saying "just run the chase through your existing to change over because the patterns are so close" and I thought that doesnt sound too bad. I'll do that....

Maybe I'll just use this thing for mock up then pony up.

Yeah I work for TiAL and we do the engineering and manufacturing for Xona as well. If you ever want a different turbo we've got some good options

I like studs from a simplicity standpoint but if they ever seize or have an issue, nuts/bolts are easier to deal with.

 

[culberro]

I’ve saved a few 90+ manifolds when going to larger inconel studs by just converting them to a keen-sert thread insert. I like the through bolt idea though, and you can always add a quality thread insert if you want to go back to studs.

 

[GTJordan]

Wife wouldn't watch the Oilers beat on the Panthers in the garage last night. So I only got an hour in the garage.

Finished plumbing the Summit racing 9" heater box. Sealed the air intake.

I also found a heater valve, that I was able to use the factory slider! It is a full bypass valve, so with it shut, it will just recirculate back to the engine. I'm going to go back in there and wrap the mess of clamps up with some fabric tape to prevent chafing.

Found this thanks to Brent Bates on instagram. I didn't really like dealing with the company - being Canadian they sucked for shipping (most of the time I deal with it no problem, but this thing was 50$? They charged a further 80$ to ship it across the boarder. Robbery! On top of that, they must have shipped it to Australia first, as it took almost 6 weeks to show up.

Brand is: Old Air Products
Cable Operated Bypass Heater Valve, pull to open #25-1018

Today I worked on a friends car outside, which in turn filled the garage with mosquitos. So no work from me there tonight. Maybe I'll go out and put in the master cylinder - just to accomplish SOMETHING.

I keep putting off pulling the gas tank. I need a second set of hands to drop it out since I believe it has a bunch of really old gas in it. Probably do that tomorrow night. That will clear up room for tone ring and brake lines for the rear axle.

Yesterdays pictures below.

 

[GTJordan]

OK.

I'm really trying to turn at least one bolt a day on the project. That usually turns into completeing some small task. Adding to this thread will keep my honest.

So I went out and battled the mossies to do something.

I mounted the master. Set the rod depth from the booster to the master. Installed flare on front port and set the lines in.

Then I set the BNE basic bar across. I knew the better brace interfered with the reservoir. So does this one. I also hoped I could run this bar with some GT braces. Not gonna work without a bunch of work. Might as well wait for another run of the better brace. This will do for now.

Edit- I wanted to run the Mustang reservior because I liked the built in level sensor guess I'll just use a cap from a Volvo

Proof of todays work.

 

[Harlard]

Got a part number for that there valve? I have a bypass block under the intake manifold but the hose arrangement is messy and expensive.

 

[GTJordan]

Got a part number for that there valve? I have a bypass block under the intake manifold but the hose arrangement is messy and expensive.

Brand is: Old Air Products
Cable Operated Bypass Heater Valve, pull to open #25-1018

That should work for ya

 

[brendon_ak]

Nice progress man, ready for GAME 6 TOMORROW?!?!?!?!

 

[GTJordan]

Nice progress man, ready for GAME 6 TOMORROW?!?!?!?!

Thanks! Heck yes. But don't tell anyone at work, I love shitting on the Oilers in public.


Todays progress. I got the tank and pressure side of the fuel system BY MYSELF. Thought it was going to be a huge mess, but I got it all out without issue.

So, what did I find. I found, that I need a tank and level sender assembly. Unfortunate, but it was to be expected. The car has been sitting since 2010 probably. I'll reach out locally see if anyone has one, but if not, how bad is that cheap RockAuto tank? I know I've read that they are noisy. But that is lower on my priority list.




The tank was surprisinly clean on the outside. I blew it off after that photo, and it was really nice looking. It got my hopes up....







Pulled the external pump and pressure line up to the engine bay.



When I was messing around, I was looking at the return line. @t8fanning did you find an AN- whatever the return line fitting is? That would make life pretty easy to go from the fuel rail- FPR - factory return line. This guy right here. I'll try and find it in your project thread.






Tomorrow I'll make a list of fuel system adapters and order them up on Monday.


If I ever read back on this thread. I want myself to know that all you could think about while sniffing this gas, was the 1982 Yamaha YZ80 you rebuilt with your dad as a kid.

 

[t8fanning]

When I was messing around, I was looking at the return line. @t8fanning did you find an AN- whatever the return line fitting is? That would make life pretty easy to go from the fuel rail- FPR - factory return line. This guy right here. I'll try and find it in your project thread.

I don't have an AN to stock fitting. I cut the stock flare and did an AN to 5/16 tube adapter or whatever the stock hardline is.

Here's how I have it now. Also I'll be getting rid of my whole fuel sending unit modified for -6 AN lines and a walbro 525 soon.

https://imgur.com/a/STqPIiD

 

[mopar318]

For the fuel lines, to make my life easier I started over with CuNiFer 1/2" feed and 5/8 return. I flared for AN adapters and used aeroquip push lock hose at the fuel tank. My stock fuel lines were rusty, so it just made sense. You could also run the hose from the fuel tank to the filter and rails but it gets pretty expensive going that route.

 

[GTJordan]

I don't have an AN to stock fitting. I cut the stock flare and did an AN to 5/16 tube adapter or whatever the stock hardline is.

Here's how I have it now. Also I'll be getting rid of my whole fuel sending unit modified for -6 AN lines and a walbro 525 soon.

https://imgur.com/a/STqPIiD

What are you thinking for time line?

For the fuel lines, to make my life easier I started over with CuNiFer 1/2" feed and 5/8 return. I flared for AN adapters and used aeroquip push lock hose at the fuel tank. My stock fuel lines were rusty, so it just made sense. You could also run the hose from the fuel tank to the filter and rails but it gets pretty expensive going that route.

My return line is in pretty nice shape so I'm thinking I will do -6 from the tank to the engine bay. Then do as Tate did for the return.


Edit- I found a rad shop close to work. I'm taking them the tank and my radiator for cleaning and testing. I forgot to bring my oil cooler. I'll probably bring the oil cooler and the revised intercooler for cleaning/testing when that is all done.

 

[t8fanning]

What are you thinking for time line?

I'll probably pull it in the next couple weeks.

 

[244tiCanuck]

Edit- I found a rad shop close to work. I'm taking them the tank and my radiator for cleaning and testing. I forgot to bring my oil cooler. I'll probably bring the oil cooler and the revised intercooler for cleaning/testing when that is all done.

Who is cleaning gas tanks? Last time I tried to get an Amazon tank done every shop I called said they can't do them anymore for insurance reasons, so we ended up having to get a new tank. I would like to get my P1800 tank done, it's not that bad, just surface rust. Might get the rad re-done as well. New ones are like $800 from what I've seen unless you want some Ebay aluminum one.

 

[GTJordan]

I'll probably pull it in the next couple weeks.

Reach out when you're pulling it and I'll see where I am at the time.

Who is cleaning gas tanks? Last time I tried to get an Amazon tank done every shop I called said they can't do them anymore for insurance reasons, so we ended up having to get a new tank. I would like to get my P1800 tank done, it's not that bad, just surface rust. Might get the rad re-done as well. New ones are like $800 from what I've seen unless you want some Ebay aluminum one.

Hunter Radiators? Thier website still shows fuel tank cleaning and lining as a service. I'll let you know what happens today. I looked through their reviews, and the latest gas tank repair was done one year ago. So I guess, fingers crossed?

 

[brendon_ak]

Man those are some crusty bits!

I can only imagine how nuts that city is, especially with this much daylight this time of year!

 

[adomz]

Hey ho!

Great to see this! Gives me loads of motivetion for the 242 when i can actually get a move on it!

Keep up the great spannerings!

ADam

 

[GTJordan]

No Pictures today/yesterday.

Yesterday I dropped the tank and radiator off at a rad shop for cleaning. Sealing the tank (if it is even salvagable. BUT, they are really back logged and don't really have time for tanks these days. The owner is going to try and get it done on the side for me. Doesn't sound very promising.

Today buddy came over and we looked at the issues with my turbo/intercooler/intake manifold. It will be interesting. We played with clocking turbo and making a game plan.

Step one, he took the intercooler and is going to chop and flip the end tank on the turbo side. It should push the inlet toward the strut tower. Then he is going to likely add a 45 degree outlet to the turbo compressor housing. Then it will be a small IC pipe to join the two. Step one is the intercooler mod though. Then we will work from that.

My twin gates cause an issue. The front one will likely have a pipe run up and over the manifold to Y in with the rear gate. If not, we can go under. Going over removes interference with the oil cooler lines and the turbo drain feed.

The rear gate, currently, runs right into the strut tower. He is going to extend the manifold back a couple of inches to make clearance, then Y that output to the other gate.

On the intake manifold side - we will chop up the intake manifold slightly, to change direction the throttle body currently points - ala T8s suggestion. This side will be much easier.

And we will weld the tone ring onto the diff. Does anyone have issue leaving the gap between end of the tone ring?

I just dicked around with where to mount FPR and the CCV bottle.

I'm off to Tornto in the morning for a few days of work. Buddy is then gone til the following week. So things might slow down a bit, but when I'm back I'll try running more of the wiring harness and start cleaning up the interior. I made a map of my fuel system this afternoon so I'll get that ordered up when I'm home.

Jordan

 

[brendon_ak]

No updates since Monday's tragedy...

 

[GTJordan]

No updates since Monday's tragedy...

Here is my update!

Flew to Toronto Sunday. Worst airline experience I've ever had I think. Delays after delays on the flight there.

Was in Toronto for training Monday-Tuesday on the new EX30. On Wednesday, when I returned I got a notification the EX30 won't be released for a year. Turns out I'll be one of the few people trained up on them until next year. Maybe Canada will see them before the US, but I doubt it.





Monday night, I watched the Oilers lose in game 7, at a pub near the hotel. Turns out McDavid was born near there and raised a little bit away. The bar was PACKED with Oilers fans. I watched the game with a South African who had never watched a full game. He loved it. It was awesome to see someone come into the sport and get so excited.




Tuesday, we went into the battery of the EX30. Essentially, you're seeing three cells - two the same size and a third smaller. Empty corner contains the only parts we will be able to change- 550amp fuse, pyrotechnic and the BECM. I was actually surprised the battery is fairly small (69KW) physically. And it is really nice that everything can now be removed from the battery without having to drag HV wiring around when dropping batteries (EVI port on the EC/EX40's).




Now back to the 240.

Still haven't heard back from the shop about the tank and rad. I did tell them I was away last week. I'm thinking that I might just get the tank back and do the old POR15 route on it. The tank repair kit is $120 delivered next day off Bezo's website.

When I was surfing FB market place I had been looking for some 245-40-17 tires for mock up. I found some- Toyo R888's take offs. They're old. But if I can fit them, I'll be able to fit any other 245 40. Might be able to take them on a few round the block trips later this year (the tires on the car are down to the chords and I really don't even want to go down the driveway on them). Didn't get a chance to mount them at work this week. Hopefully next on my spare wheels.



I ordered and picked up most of what I think I will need for the fuel system. I had to guesstimate fuel line length so just grabbed 30' for now. All 6AN twist-lok stuff (and clamps since they recommend clamping above 55PSI pressure)





Long weekend. Goals - Get most of the fuel system plumbed. Yard work. Help brother move. Measure clutch line required. Finish running brake lines, maybe bleed brakes? If time, start with wiring.

 

[brendon_ak]

Love the update and pretty cool you got an in depth look at some new bolbo stuff!!

Heartbreaking on Monday indeed. At least it was a tight game and Florida got their first. Oilers will be back, I hope.