Corivus' 1991 740SE v8 swap

[corivus]

@corivus - did you say you were going to use a 8.8 rear on yours? I've been re-reading the Rear Axles Choices thread

yes, I may or may not of sent you the info Dug Strickler sent me about why he said not to modify them for 7/9 series or maybe even put it here somewhere.

That reminds me, I did some small things with the 740 that I should update in here and not just leave on my Instagram. I'll be posting an update soon that includes power steering stuff, more cooling because Arizona and some other small odds and ends.

 

[lookforjoe]

yes, I may or may not of sent you the info Dug Strickler sent me about why he said not to modify them for 7/9 series or maybe even put it here somewhere.

That reminds me, I did some small things with the 740 that I should update in here and not just leave on my Instagram. I'll be posting an update soon that includes power steering stuff, more cooling because Arizona and some other small odds and ends.

Hey Cory - if you have that info I'd appreciate it - still trying to figure out which way to go

 

[corivus]

Hey Cory - if you have that info I'd appreciate it - still trying to figure out which way to go

sent to you in a PM

 

[corivus]

Sorta update?

So my computer decided to reboot itself over the weekend and I had been planning on making a post when I got a chance. looks like I get to write it all over again. basically this is what I'd like to get done in the next 2 months time permitting.... I have a stack of parts in the back of the 740 at the shop right now just waiting to be installed. Usually summer time is when we are slowest but apparently this summer is busy as all get out which is great for the paycheck but not so much to work on the Volvo.

Suspension - swap out right front strut assembly and go back to stock height by replacing both cut springs, replace left front wheel bearing assembly. Wheel bearing purchased, springs swapped out and installed, right front strut assembly replaced and tracking well, need to torque everything down, and replace both ball joints as the rubber is cracked. (I have the ball joints...somewhere)

Power Steering - rack developed a serious leak after the accident and likely blew out all the seals that were starting to go bad.
Purchased new steering rack, electric PS pump from a S40, low pressure line to an fitting.
Still need to install everything and get it on the alignment rack and get it driving straight.

Battery - relocate battery to rear cargo area, needs battery box, wires, lugs and cutoff switch (All parts acquired need to install)

Oil cooling - make brackets for the active air oil cooler and run lines and install lines on the low profile oil pan (all parts acquired need to install)

Intake/water pump/alternator - LS6 intake acquired, need to relocate the alternator using brackets already purchased. also waiting on the spacers for the water pump. (all parts acquired need to install)

PCM/Fuse box - relocate to the cabin and make a clean looking panel for the fuses

Cruise control - wire in the brake switch to the gm PCM for the brake signal and wire in the Volvo cruise control stalk to give commands for cruise control.

I think that's everything for now....I've probably missed several things again...

 

[corivus]

Sorta update?

So my computer decided to reboot itself over the weekend and I had been planning on making a post when I got a chance. looks like I get to write it all over again. basically this is what I'd like to get done in the next 2 months time permitting.... I have a stack of parts in the back of the 740 at the shop right now just waiting to be installed. Usually summer time is when we are slowest but apparently this summer is busy as all get out which is great for the paycheck but not so much to work on the Volvo.

Suspension - swap out right front strut assembly and go back to stock height by replacing both cut springs, replace left front wheel bearing assembly. Wheel bearing purchased, springs swapped out and installed, right front strut assembly replaced and tracking well, need to torque everything down, and replace both ball joints as the rubber is cracked. (I have the ball joints...somewhere)

Power Steering - rack developed a serious leak after the accident and likely blew out all the seals that were starting to go bad.
Purchased new steering rack, electric PS pump from a S40, low pressure line to an fitting.
Still need to install everything and get it on the alignment rack and get it driving straight.

Battery - relocate battery to rear cargo area, needs battery box, wires, lugs and cutoff switch (All parts acquired need to install)

Oil cooling - make brackets for the active air oil cooler and run lines and install lines on the low profile oil pan (all parts acquired need to install)

Intake/water pump/alternator - LS6 intake acquired, need to relocate the alternator using brackets already purchased. also waiting on the spacers for the water pump. (all parts acquired need to install)

PCM/Fuse box - relocate to the cabin and make a clean looking panel for the fuses

Cruise control - wire in the brake switch to the gm PCM for the brake signal and wire in the Volvo cruise control stalk to give commands for cruise control.

I think that's everything for now....I've probably missed several things again...

Couple of updates....

Battery - got the battery box and ran the cables, just trying to decide if I want to put the fusable link at the box or after the shut off switch. Also the switch isn't so much for drag racing but so i can store the car and not drain down my battery.

Power Steering - I installed the new rack and did have to make one minor modification much the same as lookforjoe mentioned in his thread. This is how I modified it in case anyone is wondering.


oil cooling - mounted the cooler and purchased the fittings on the cooler side and now I'm waiting for the fittings to arrive for the oil pan side so I can run my lines.

 

[corivus]

and one last bit because apparently I can only post 10 pictures...

Suspension - strut assemblies were swapped out and went back to stock springs. also replaced front left wheel bearing assembly replaced all the cracked or worn suspension bits and aligned it. it drives straight and I can have my hands off the wheel for a full minute before I have to grab the wheel when I'm on a straightish road. no real photos but here's the alignment sheet, had some mishaps with the machine but I got it dialed in. was using a hunter alignment machine.



edit: hopefully this doesn't send this back to the top. but the oil cooler is now fully plumbed in, just got to figure out a power source and setup a switch for it on the dash since I want it to be manually turned off and on.

 

[corivus]

edit words and additional info
not an update per say, but I'm currently working on extending my pcm harness into my glove box. The following is just how I have everything wired up so I can remember it later. This might help someone else as well, there is of course a LOT of info on swapping an ls out there. And just to clarify, I am using a 99-00 RED/BLUE PCM harness not the 03+ BLUE/GREEN harness. So just keep that info in mind.
Relays
Relay 1 - Main relay
30 - RED - Feeds Fuses 1,2, and 3 12v keyed signal
85 - BLK - GND
86 - WHT - Key on 12v+ Signal
87 - BLU - 12v Hot (wire tied in to Fuse 4 constant hot)
87A - YLW - Unused Capped

Relay 2 - Fuel Pump relay
30 - RED - to fuel pump 12v+ feed
85 - BLK - GND
86 - WHT - Fuel Pump signal (RED 9) from PCM
87 - BLU - 12v Hot (From Fuse #4)
87A - YLW - Unused capped

Relay 3 - TCC Brake switch
30 - RED - TCC Brake switch signal (BLUE 33) from pcm
85 - BLK - Brake Light switch signal from pedal
86 - WHT - GND
87 - BLU - Unused Capped
87A - YLW - 12v Keyed Hot

Fuses
Fuse 1 (Keyed 12v+) - Coils(2/4/6/8 E6 Pink 1039, 1/3/5/7 E12 Pink 1239) & PCM (B8 Orange 440)
Fuse 2 (Keyed 12v+) - Injectors (1/3 C10 Pink 1039, 2/4 C12 Pink 1239, 5/7 D10 Pink 1039, 6/8 E7 Pink 1239)
Fuse 3 (Keyed 12v+) - MAF (C4 Pink 239), TRANS (E2 Pink 1020), HO2 (D8 Pink 539), MIL (PCM Supplies a ground when triggered, wire keyed 12v to light or wire to tach for further integration), TCC Brake keyed hot feed (Relay 3 Pin 87A)
Fuse 4 (Constant 12v+) - Fuel Pump (From Relay 2 PIN 87 on fuse), PCM (C11 Pink 439), OBD2 (PIN 16 from OBD2 Port to 12v+)

I have pictures but they probably aren't that interesting to most tbh, its just what I have so far with the extension. and new fuse panel which will tuck into where the original lh 2.4 ecu went. Also as I've said in one of my early posts most of this info is on lt1swap.com, I just tried to put together most of the stuff relevant for 7/9 series here.

 

[corivus]

Bit of an update so I got a few things installed and since there is a limit on how many photos I can attach per post I'm going to spread these out over a couple of posts. But the majority of what I wanted to get done this year is completed.

Oil cooling - Oil cooler is fully installed and wired up and temps dropped down about 6-10* during the height of summer with the ac going. My max temp was around 219 on the highway after a hard pull with all the fans going. I even made a little tiktok video showing the fan going and only managed to describe one crucial bit incorrectly in the video... yay?


Water pump - I installed the water pump using the spacers that lookforjoe recommended. I ended up making some spacers for the tensioner which I eyeballed. I'll use the lathe at work later to make a solid piece that's a little less questionable looking. I used a dial caliper afterwards to measure and apparently my eyes are still good because I was spot on for the spacing.

 

[corivus]

Part 2 of the update

Power Steering - The power steering pump and controller has been mounted. Power is pretty simple, going from main power to a 300amp circuit breaker to supply power. Then the controller is on keyed power on, I'm still debating on having a ground switch to toggle the ps pump off when I'm cranking the engine. But I may just skip that since the alt is pretty beefy compared to the old volvo one (140amps). The controller is fairly simple and has a dial for feedback/sensitivity. I still need to get funds once again to run the high pressure power steering lines. But that's what side gigs are for right?

 

[corivus]

And hopefully the final part, part 3:

PCM/Fuse box - The fuse box, now fuse panel has been fully made and after some troubleshooting the car runs again. I also mounted the PCM in my glove box and made some minor alterations. Everything is now wrapped and I need to figure out a different grommet for that opening. Does anyone have any aftermarket suggestions? Also on the subject of OEM kick panel vs. this metal one. OEM one has delaminated multiple times, and the last person to fix it used double-sided tape. Which lasted till this summer, and then it melted. Gonna glue the vinyl to the metal later so it looks fully OEM and cut out a spot for the obd2 port.



I made the relay panel from the back of the glove box funny enough, but it worked really well.



Also I know I posted this already but here's the final wiring layout of my relays and fuses. This includes where I wired them in from, if you look at the pictures from this post it should give you an idea. I also was a bit detailed in which connector on the PCM, which pin and what color the wire it was. Instead of just saying RED 9 (CONNECTOR/PIN)

Relays
Relay 1 - Main relay
30 - RED - Feeds Fuses 1,2, and 3 12v keyed signal
85 - BLK - GND
86 - WHT - Key on 12v+ Signal (Pin 35 from LH Harness Keyed hot)
87 - BLU - 12v Hot (Fed from fused power distribution direct from battery) (wire tied in to Fuse 4 constant hot)
87A - YLW - Unused Capped

Relay 2 - Fuel Pump relay
30 - RED - to fuel pump 12v+ feed
85 - BLK - GND
86 - WHT - Fuel Pump signal (RED C2 Connector PIN 9 DK GRN/WHT wire) from PCM
87 - BLU - 12v Hot (Wired to Fuse #4)
87A - YLW - Unused capped

Relay 3 - TCC Brake switch
30 - RED - TCC Brake switch signal (BLUE C1 Connector Pin 33 Purple Wire) from pcm
85 - BLK - Brake Light switch signal from pedal (T'd in for 12v+ trigger from brake switch)
86 - WHT - GND
87 - BLU - Unused Capped
87A - YLW - 12v Keyed Hot (Wired to Fuse 3)

Fuses
Fuse 1 (Keyed 12v+) - Coils(2/4/6/8 E6 Pink 1039, 1/3/5/7 E12 Pink 1239) & PCM (B8 Orange 440)
Fuse 2 (Keyed 12v+) - Injectors (1/3 C10 Pink 1039, 2/4 C12 Pink 1239, 5/7 D10 Pink 1039, 6/8 E7 Pink 1239)
Fuse 3 (Keyed 12v+) - MAF (C4 Pink 239), TRANS (E2 Pink 1020), HO2 (D8 Pink 539), TCC Brake keyed hot feed (Relay 3 Pin 87A)
Fuse 4 (Constant 12v+) - Fuel Pump (From Relay 2 PIN 87 on fuse), PCM (C11 Pink 439), OBD2 (PIN 16 from OBD2 Port to 12v+)

******Note*******: MIL (Check engine light) is wired to PIN 22 on the LH 2.4 harness, they trigger exactly the same and you don't have to mess with a bunch of extra wires and bulbs.

The fuse panel things I ordered from Amazon makes me feel a little iffy about its construction. I'm using it to feed 12v+ constant hot (I'm going to make it switched) to my oil cooler fan the PS pump controller and a few other smaller odds and ends. I've blown the oil cooler fan fuse once already which led to me opening up the fuse panel and I realized they were using 18ga wire. To be safe I'll make another fuse panel, this time hopefully using a s/v70 fuse box to provide key on 12v and constant hot 12v to whatever things I'm running in the engine bay. IE. Engine oil cooler fan, and the power steering pump controller.



I'll likely copy the same setup I did for the main key on 12v+ and use the 4 fuse holder since I have a couple laying around, that way I have options if I want to add more things to the engine bay:

Relay 1 - Main relay
30 - YLQ - Feeds Fuses 1,2, and 3 12v keyed signal
85 - BLK - GND
86 - WHT - Key on 12v+ Signal (Pin from LH Harness Keyed hot)
87 -RED - 12v Hot (Fed from fused power distribution direct from battery) (wire tied in to Fuse 4 constant hot)
87A - BLU - Unused Capped

Fuses
Fuse 1 - Constant 12v+ - Feeds fuses 2,3,4
Fuse 2 - Keyed 12v+ - Engine Oil Cooler Fan
Fuse 3 - Keyed 12v+ - PS Pump Controller, Wideband
Fuse 4 - Keyed 12v+ - Blank

As of right now the 740 still can run and drive but the next step once the power steering is complete is to completely remove the accessory bracket and install the ICT Billet alternator relocation kit so I can low mount it. I will use a 550K6 belt instead of the stock one for an 03 silverado 1500. Then its time to start getting the LS6 intake installed, but I might take the time at that point to redo my valley cover gasket and clean that up along with some other gaskets that I may have to address in that area. I am also trying to decide if I should try to run a LS1 style fuel rail or just go with an aftermarket FPR and use the LS6 fuel rail.

So basically next projects to hopefully get done this year are as follows:

Wideband installation (Done Post incoming ish...)
Get the Tach Gauge working (Done Post incoming ish...)
Get temperature gauge working (in progress)
Cruise Control integration added in (planning it out)
20 Gallon Gas tank and Gauge cluster install (Waiting on bracket)
Power Steering pump Lines (High Pressure/Return)
Alternator relocation using ICT Billet Kit
LS6 Intake install (Need to have injectors cleaned and figure out how to tune for the ls6 injectors)
I think that's all the major things....

 

[corivus]

This was supposed to be an edit but I could only add 2 more photos so I just decided to add another post. hopefully this doesn't add to much confusion. I realized that my driver side fender tray still had a bunch of random relays in it for things. I wanted to clean this up since I would like to start going to shows again soon. So I found this relay box on amazon for under $20 and it had options for relays and terminals and wiring for more, I chose the cheapest option since I have all those things already from the same manufacturer. it almost looks like I bought a kit from amazon...almost being the key word.

Relay 1 - Main relay
30 - YLW - Feeds Fuses 1,2, and 3 12v keyed signal
85 - BLK - GND
86 - WHT - Key on 12v+ Signal (Pin from LH Harness Keyed hot)
87 -RED - 12v Hot (Fed from fused power distribution direct from battery) (wire tied in to Fuse 4 constant hot)
87A - BLU - Unused

Relay 2 - GM AC Compressor 12v+ Trigger
30 - YLW - AC Trigger signal to compressor
85 - BLK - GND
86 - WHT - ECC AC Signal (Fed via green wire from middle-ish of firewall from volvo cabin)
87 - RED - 12v+ (Hot)
87A - BLU - unused

Relay 3 - EFAN AC Trigger request
30 - YLW - GND
85 - BLK - GND
86 - WHT - AC trigger signal
87 - RED - 12v+ (Hot)
87A - BLU - unused

Relay 4 - Unused
30 - YLW -
85 - BLK -
86 - WHT -
87 - RED -
87A - BLU -

Relay 5 - Unused
30 - YLW -
85 - BLK -
86 - WHT -
87 - RED -
87A - BLU -

Relay 6 - Unused
30 - YLW -
85 - BLK -
86 - WHT -
87 - RED -
87A - BLU -

Fuses
Fuse 1 - Constant 12v+ - Feeds fuses 2,3,4
Fuse 2 - Keyed 12v+ - Engine Oil Cooler Fan
Fuse 3 - Keyed 12v+ - PS Pump Controller, Wideband
Fuse 4 - Keyed 12v+ - Blank
Fuse 5 - Unused
Fuse 6 - Unused

 

[lookforjoe]

And hopefully the final part, part 3:

PCM/Fuse box - The fuse box, now fuse panel has been fully made and after some troubleshooting the car runs again. I also mounted the PCM in my glove box and made some minor alterations. Everything is now wrapped and I need to figure out a different grommet for that opening. Does anyone have any aftermarket suggestions? Also on the subject of OEM kick panel vs. this metal one. OEM one has delaminated multiple times, and the last person to fix it used double-sided tape. Which lasted till this summer, and then it melted. Gonna glue the vinyl to the metal later so it looks fully OEM and cut out a spot for the obd2 port.


The fuse panel things I ordered from Amazon makes me feel a little iffy about its construction. I'm using it to feed 12v+ constant hot (I'm going to make it switched) to my oil cooler fan the PS pump controller and a few other smaller odds and ends. I've blown the oil cooler fan fuse once already which led to me opening up the fuse panel and I realized they were using 18ga wire. To be safe I'll make another fuse panel, this time hopefully using a s/v70 fuse box to provide key on 12v and constant hot 12v to whatever things I'm running in the engine bay. IE. Engine oil cooler fan, and the power steering pump controller.

The C30 uses Maxi/Midi style fuses for the heavy draw items like the PS - This style (+ terminal) battery box is only around $25 (MTA 0300839), and the MidiVAL fuses are available in a wide range of ratings. The only place I found it online is ConnectorID

 

[corivus]

that... is a lot cleaner and I could keep everything inside the battery box since it has a section to close off the battery further. I'll look into that

 

[corivus]

Ok so i went through this post to double check but it looks like I only had the info on fb v8volvos group on how much I cleared the trans tunnel for the swap. There is no intrusion inside the cabin with how it currently sits. But I kinda wish I cleared a little bit more space its a tight fit for sure still.

 

[lookforjoe]

Ok so i went through this post to double check but it looks like I only had the info on fb v8volvos group on how much I cleared the trans tunnel for the swap. There is no intrusion inside the cabin with how it currently sits. But I kinda wish I cleared a little bit more space its a tight fit for sure still.

I was comparing yours to the JTR directions I found - is yours a tight right at the bulkhead line or further back? They show bashing it above the spot weld line

 

[corivus]

I was comparing yours to the JTR directions I found - is yours a tight right at the bulkhead line or further back? They show bashing it above the spot weld line

View attachment 29933

Correct right at that line was were I stopped, I did a test fit to check for clearance and while it was close everything slid in like a glove. I have contemplated clearing a bit more space on the passenger side once I pull the engine and trans though.

 

[lookforjoe]

Correct right at that line was were I stopped, I did a test fit to check for clearance and while it was close everything slid in like a glove. I have contemplated clearing a bit more space on the passenger side once I pull the engine and trans though.

I will follow your layout & then check clearance when I get to this. Since we may be moving in the next 6 months, I don't know if I can risk starting now, which was the plan. May have to wait until after we move.

 

[corivus]

yeah I think once I knew I had everything to start it took around a month of actually working on it every night to get to running status. the thing that took the longest was the driveshaft.

 

[lookforjoe]

yeah I think once I knew I had everything to start it took around a month of actually working on it every night to get to running status. the thing that took the longest was the driveshaft.

Good to note the time frame. I know mine will take longer as I ALWAYS get sidetracked
I found a driveshaft shop about 40mins away that said about a week turn around.

 

[corivus]

Few updates to show, and I'm sure I might be missing some other things I've done

OEM Volvo Tach Setup -

I got my tach to display the correct RPM direct from the GM PCM without using a converter like Dakota digital. Both my current stock cluster and the cluster for my gas tank upgrade are Yakazi and thus have adjustable potentiometers in them. I have yet to run into a VDO gauge cluster on a newer 7 series. So after having one of the newbies at the shop hold rpm's at 980-1010 RPM's while I used the scan tool to verify RPM range, I got my gauge dialed in.

In case someone is trying to make sense of how to do it, you adjust the white dealie in the picture, that's your potentiometer, until the RPM's display correctly. then install everything into the cluster. In my case I had to splice direct into the harness (RED/WHT wire) as I do not have the stock Volvo power stage installed so I can't tap into the ezk or the PCM for my signal.



Rear Doors

Both my passenger and driver-side rear doors are not able to open from the outside after central locking is applied. If you open the doors from the inside they operated just fine. After taking apart the door I saw there was an adjustable bar that connects to the door handle. I tightened this down a few turns and reassembled everything on the driver side and bam it worked perfectly after that. I switched over to the passenger side door and things got a little...weird? I ended up tightening that bar all the way and tightening the adjustment screw on the handle all the way and it started working again. The pull on that side is still extremely tough but at least it works.

Also some credit, I borrowed 2 photos from texts that lookforjoe and I passed back and forth once I started to get upset at the passenger side door. (I make more sense if I send pictures sometimes)



AEM Wide-band

Wide-band was successfully installed, my boss did the welding and yes a part of me wants to go back and grind over the welds but I think at this point I have other matters to address. I am def running lean on my long term fuel trims, i really need to figure out how to tune, but I also need to have time to learn hp tuners. I was seeing AFR's in the 14.8-15.3 once I get fully warmed up. I thought originally it might be a fueling issue which started to push me to get my larger capacity fuel tank installed that also happens to have my AEM 320LPH fuel pump installed on it. However I started doing some digging into my maintenance records on the 740 and realized I never replaced the spark plugs. The ones that were in there were some new looking NGK's. Swapped those for some OEM plugs and my AFR's stick to 14.3-14.8 all day long aside from cold start first thing in the morning right now.



Reverse lights

So I haven’t had reverse lights, originally I was going to splice into the GM PNP switch as its supposed to supply a 12v+ output signal from connector F. I got my multi-meter out and back probed it and got… nothing. Not sure why it wasn’t outputting 12v+ but I kinda stopped poking at it as I had other things to poke and prod at on the Volvo. I ended up wiring it up to a seat heater switch with a tiny led that lights up when the switch is active. Its a lazy way to do it but it works for now, I know I’m going to go back to this and back probe all the outputs on the PNP switch to find the 12v+ signal once I go into reverse.


The next projects after this are the LS6 intake, I ordered a corvette FPR and I'm just trying to figure out how to update my current setup to show that I'm running different injectors and intake. Once I figure that out I'll be able to swap in the new intake. I don't think I'll be getting the high pressure power steering lines done this year unless I actually have someone follow through on an actual ls swap on their square body truck.

Then the larger capacity gas tank/fuel sender/gauge cluster/AEM320LPH fuel pump install. I’ve got everything aside from a bracket to get this installed. Of course Volvo is sold out everywhere so I’m just going to borrow the bracket from a friend and make my own. I should be able to get that made before the end of the year...hopefully.

Then its Cruise control which seems pretty straight forward I just haven’t had time to check the wires that correspond with the gm ones and just join them all together.

The stock coolant gauge is also something I want to get running as well, but the stock Volvo sender is too big. If I happen to pull my heads this year to do the cam I may tap the rear port for the m16x1.5 Volvo sensor. I have like 8 of them here and don’t feel a reason to spend $60 on the STS one. Unless of course it takes me forever to get around to putting in a cam next year.

Lastly we come up to another issue I've run into on the 740 since the swap. Braking, I am currently running the 850R 308mm Rotors and calipers in the front and the stock 740 pads and rotors in the rear. While this has been OK, my stopping distance has increased with the higher power output and after next year it'll be an even bigger increase I think. So its time to upgrade further and go with some V/S60R rotors and calipers all around. To that end I picked up some calipers from a local AZVolvos FB member. I am going to repaint these and put the Brembo logos (or maybe Volvo?) back on, I just can't decide what color yet. I'll be getting brackets from sts machining, once they eventually respond to my email hopefully and then I'll be able to get this installed pretty quickly. If you are interested in the old setup keep an eye out for when I do install these on my 740.