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Cosbysweater's 242 Daily Driver. PROJECT GRANDPA

So as stated above I was having massive issues with the brake system. Due to the non leaker brake junction block being unobtanium at this point i decided to convert the brake system to a more traditional style split system. The first thing i did was remove the brake octopus and gutted it removing all of the springs and pistons. I tapped the internal portion of the octopus to 1/8th npt and installed 2 pipe plugs on each side. I tapped the brake failure circuit for a 1/4 inch plug and installed that as well.

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then it was time to find some abs caliper....... Well those are basically unobtanium at this point so i did some research and found the datsun guys use these calipers and they will use the stock dual circuit calipers in single circuit form. The was a guy by the name Breck Meyer that used to made a bolt on manifold for these brakes which converted them to a single line. I could not find these parts either. so i just went ahead and found some video links from the datsun forums to cross drill the inside caliper half to convert it to a single circuit caliper.

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I watched the video several times and basically the gist of it is to replicate the one hole in the bore marked number 1 into the number 2 bore so they meet. I started by making a little indentation with a carbide bit and got some long drill bits from the hardware store to make my life easier.

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I started with a 1/4 inch drill bit and then went with a 5/16 drill bit. It went really well and i was able to get through the caliper in no time.

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I installed a plug in the upper port of the brake caliper and installed a single line up front. I installed my freshly plugged brake octopus and plugged 2 ports on it. I ran the line from the front of the master cylinder to the rear of the junction block and the rear master cylinder port to the front and went ahead and threw some of the ipd aftermarket stainless lines on it. Also the aftermarket lines are not worth the hassle just buy lines from pelican parts for a porsche, they are the same as the ipd branded lines and about half the price. At this point i attempted to bleed the brakes and now came the first issue. The rear brakes bled fine, front brakes not so much. I had already had 3 master cylinders on the car and they all leaked which was fantastic but number 4 did not leak. However i was getting 0 volume out of the front calipers. I tried another one of the master cylinders that leaked and still the same thing. At this point i was getting a bit frustrated as far as after trying to simplify the brake system i now has a setup that did not work at all. I attributed this to it being a step bore master cylinder and the fact that the 240s have a pretty confusing brake system to begin with. So i decided to scrap the idea of using the volvo master cylinder and went to the auto parts store and got a sn95 cobra master cylinder. I cut the line going to the rear and got some brake line fittings for 3/16 m12x1.0 bubble flare and put the brake system back together. after that the brakes bled almost immediately and i had a nice hard pedal. Funny enough these are probably the best feeling 240 brakes ive ever had on a 240. I think the proportioning valves in the rear however have some garbage in them because the rear brakes seem to not be grabbing as hard as they should. for this i think my plan of attack is going to be to delete the rear proportioning valves and put a adjustable one up front. They are pretty cheap so i will probably get 2 just to have a backup. The whole goal of this brake system debacle was to delete some of the stuff that is becoming very hard to find and get a system that is simplified and ready for bigger brakes if i ever decide to swap to different wheels and tires.

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Good stuff dude, thanks for sharing that process with us. Cross drilling the front calipers for a single circuit conversion seems so obvious after seeing it done.:zeeall: Which Pelican brake lines are you referring to - are they front hoses for an early 911 like this?

I'm staring at a 75 245 shell here that has no braking system at all right now except for the octopus and rear proportioning valves, and might end up using your tips to get it on the road.
 
Good stuff dude, thanks for sharing that process with us. Cross drilling the front calipers for a single circuit conversion seems so obvious after seeing it done.:zeeall: Which Pelican brake lines are you referring to - are they front hoses for an early 911 like this?

I'm staring at a 75 245 shell here that has no braking system at all right now except for the octopus and rear proportioning valves, and might end up using your tips to get it on the road.

These ones right here. i wish i would have bought these. these are identical to the IPD branded lines. The aftermarket stainless lines ipd sells are garbage. they dont have a long enough shank where it goes onto the axle so it makes it impossible to put the retaining nut on them. i will probably gut another brake octopus if i can get one and install it in the back or just link the extra front lines i got to the rear hoses and retain them up on the body somewhere
 
lookin' good! fyi vp-parts has the 240 ABS calipers now

 
lookin' good! fyi vp-parts has the 240 ABS calipers now

good to know! they are a bit heft on the price, however that right hand caliper is always tough to get.
 
Had my first "failure" car has been running and driving flawlessly, for some reason while i was driving home the holley display started flashing and i noticed my fuel pressure was at 80psi and i noticed the ecu started pulling a ton of fuel. I checked the fuel pressure at the rail and it was infact 80 psi so i knew my transducer hadnt failed. I took the corvette regulator out and installed a china boi regulator and set base pressure at 60psi and the issue has been resolved.

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So I got rid of the rear proportioning valves using a m10x1.0 bubble flare union and a old prop valves bracket. I bled the brakes just to test and funny enough the brakes feel perfect with the mustang master and no prop valves. I may still install the adjustable one or leave it as is.

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Also got some wheels on Craigslist for the car. Cleaning them up a bit before I get the rust fixed on the car.

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Are those 20 bolt BBS? Looks like about a 16x7. What's that cylinder on the left, some sort of hub centering ring for a lug-centric E50 / E501 wheel center? What size will they be? So many questions.
 
Are those 20 bolt BBS? Looks like about a 16x7. What's that cylinder on the left, some sort of hub centering ring for a lug-centric E50 / E501 wheel center? What size will they be? So many questions.
the answer to all these questions is 7.
 
Are those 20 bolt BBS? Looks like about a 16x7. What's that cylinder on the left, some sort of hub centering ring for a lug-centric E50 / E501 wheel center? What size will they be? So many questions.
i can confirm that there are 20 bolts holding them together
 
Cool. Super high tack worked well for holding the rubber o-ring onto the seal rings. I had 15" barrels initially, so stretching the rubber o-ring over those first made them hold the right size for easy tacking to the seal rings. I assume you know the rest but let me know if you have any questions. I have lots of used bolts if you need any, although you should use new, I kinda think the used ones would probably work fine for street.
 
Got some more parts for the car, hopefully my wheels will be already to install this weekend. I absolutely love driving this car. the stock 4.8 makes for a great cruiser. I like the power output as well, however it could be a little more fun.

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snagged this thing for super cheap. its a nissan frontier 6 speed. basically the same as a cd009 except (in my opinion) better. it has a factory top mount shifter and its cheaper from the dealership new. Not super sold on these nissan transmissions however its cheap enough to give it a try.

I also installed a proportioning valve for the rear brakes. havent really done or needed much adjustment. I also did a while youre in there mod and installed a line lock, i have it triggering off a wagon style fog light switch which triggers a relay and uses the horn circuit as the line lock.

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thats all for now
 
Finished up the wheels. They looks great in the pictures but they are definitely driver wheels. I didn't really want them to look too nice, I kinda wanted the look like they were installed in the 90s at some point, lol. The are Ferrari compomotive fh600s. I resealed and painted the centers gold (RIP Kenwood Chair). It could be lower but right now it has no rubbing issues and everything fits as it should.

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I'm going to mess around with the fitment a little before it heads to the body shop.
 
Got a better picture of it with the wheels. Still haven't chopped any coils. I'm torn on cutting coils or just going straight to a coil over on it. Undecided as of not to be honest. I really want to weigh the car first before doing anything to the suspension.

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Also removed the passenger fender for bodywork and rehomed all the black widows

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And yes that's the gremlin. It's basically done at this point but I have lost interest in it yet again.
 
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