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Diesel swap
- Thread starter Bilbo19
- Start date
nordmaschine
forced instruction
- Joined
- Feb 12, 2012
- Location
- The Balkans, BiH
Video doesn't work for me. Any chance for a direct link?
Congratulations, it must be a great feeling!
I'm currently in a similar place with an equally silver 960, finally stopped procrascinating after 2 years:
Congratulations, it must be a great feeling!
I'm currently in a similar place with an equally silver 960, finally stopped procrascinating after 2 years:
Wow it sounds like a lot of work to do with electrics compared to me!!
Is the video working like that?
Sorry it's bad quality due to 15 years old iphone ahah.
Yeah, it looks and sounds great! What timing setting did you use? Seems to start well and run clean even when cold.
Awesome how many D24T parts you were able to use on this, throttle linkage, fuel filter head, cooling system etc. Terrific results!
Awesome how many D24T parts you were able to use on this, throttle linkage, fuel filter head, cooling system etc. Terrific results!
I would certainly not worry about driving it in "normal use" without an oil temp gauge or known functioning oil cooler t-stat. The only time you risk high oil temps is during extended hard driving -- heavy loads, fast acceleration, mountain slopes, continuous high speeds etc. The oil temp is directly related to the combustion temps since the piston cooling oil spray absorbs heat from the pistons into the oil.... The hotter the pistons, the hotter the oil (and the less cooling that's then available to the pistons, and things get out of control eventually....) But if you drive it lightly in such a way that doesn't lead to extended high combustion temps, just cruising around town or a couple short accelerations, you won't have any risks there.
It works in that position on the D24 because the D24 also has a coolant bypass at that location (runs from the upper radiator hose outlet to the injection pump's cold start advance device housing), which ensures that coolant flows past the sender's probe at all times, even when the engine thermostat is closed. Without the bypass, if the tstat is closed, you get no fluid circulation from the hot parts of the head there, which could compromise your gauge reading. I don't know how it works on AAT/AEL since we were unlucky enough to never get those engines on this continent and I have never seen one, but assume they have some similar provision. It's never right to have a temperature sensor in a dead-end circuit. That said, I think your solution will work OK most of the time, certainly it will be fine if the tstat is even slightly open. I think the only times you'll possibly get some false readings from it is in light load driving in wintertime when the thermostat doesn't open (TDI engine is so efficient that it generates very little excess heat at light loads and in many cases the tstat may never open at all if your commute is at low speeds and not very long).... Or if the thermostat ever fails shut and doesn't open when it needed to, which is my bigger concern, as that might be one scenario where the location of the probe could actually result in the gauge failing to give you critical information of an overheating engine. But it's unlikely -- more common for the thermostat to fail open. So that's just a risk decision, thinking about a situation that has a low chance of occurring but would have major consequences if it did.
I bought a 90° elbow for upper cooling hoses, hoses come from and audi 80 I think.
And head to heater hose interfered with the shed so I had to buy a short silicon reduction elbow (22mm to 16mm IIRC) and a 16mm junction to fit the original heater hose.
For the future, in case you ever need to change this hose or have a problem with it, we on the diesel group have figured out that there is a widely available Volkswagen Golf heater hose that does a great job in this location: part number 171 121 611 E has the correct diameter reduction with a 90 degree bend immediately after the reduction that allows easy connection to the Volvo heater circuit. I like to use a 3/4" PEX fitting as the union, very robust and the right size. Full details in this thread: https://d24t.com/showthread.php?t=608
Hope you are able to get it out for its first drive soon, envious that you have access to this wonderful 2.5L engine, I am sure it will be a delight!
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Yeah very good starting even when it's cold, and I have still no glow plugs on it!
That's very cool to use all the D24 parts, it made it simpler and more oem looking!
Timing is set at 1.10mm before TDC at the gauge.
It's running very good but very noisy, I am a bit disappointed with that, sometime with a good engine it's amazing how quiet Audi A6 C4 are! I was hopping for such a result but unfortunately this engine make a lot more noise than any 2.5 tdi I know on any vehicle (LT, T4, V70 or Audi).
I tried different timing settings but it didn't changed anything, it sounds more like an old 2.4d volkswagen T4 than a tdi...
I still have to go visit the guy who built the pump for some final settings, we'll see at this moment!
Thank you very much for the VW hose tip, I wish I knew this before cause I hate silicon hoses ahah!
And thanks for the oil and water temp advice, it make sense to me, I'll try to add an oil temp gauge as soon as possible. About water temp I'm not so worried but I keep that in mind. I'll have to wire an e-fan for the summer, so maybe I can relocate the temp sensor on the same time.
I was thinking about locating e-fan sensor and coolant sensor on the return hose of the heater core. It's true that I have a valve on this hose for the heater core but it's never fully closed for a long lime I think.
It actually drives well, I just have no proper video or pictures to show you. Just a little spoiler, when visiting a friend this morning :
2 years french inspection expires on saturday, so I'm going to pass inspection on friday, I'll let you know!
And thanks for the oil and water temp advice, it make sense to me, I'll try to add an oil temp gauge as soon as possible. About water temp I'm not so worried but I keep that in mind. I'll have to wire an e-fan for the summer, so maybe I can relocate the temp sensor on the same time.
I was thinking about locating e-fan sensor and coolant sensor on the return hose of the heater core. It's true that I have a valve on this hose for the heater core but it's never fully closed for a long lime I think.
It actually drives well, I just have no proper video or pictures to show you. Just a little spoiler, when visiting a friend this morning :
2 years french inspection expires on saturday, so I'm going to pass inspection on friday, I'll let you know!
Yes originally NA D24 with low compression (probably worn out piston rings)!
Last week I did a bit of maintenance prior to the inspection, rear coils replacement, I already changed the 4 choc absorbers before the swap, but rear coils were sag out.
Front stabilizer bar links
Axle oil change (never did before), oil wasn't really pretty...
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Then I went to inspection, which went very well. Zero defects except some scratches and dents on the body.
And I went for a weekend road trip, 300km and first night in the car in a long time!
The car drove just well, with no leaks or noises, and normal consumption.
I'm considering an axle swap in a near future, I can have a 3.54 easily available to replace the original 4.10. I also want to add a rear sway bar, cause I have not and the car is rolling a lot in rolls and bumps.
Video of one of the first drive :
Morning on the forest
Last week I did a bit of maintenance prior to the inspection, rear coils replacement, I already changed the 4 choc absorbers before the swap, but rear coils were sag out.
Front stabilizer bar links
Axle oil change (never did before), oil wasn't really pretty...
Then I went to inspection, which went very well. Zero defects except some scratches and dents on the body.
And I went for a weekend road trip, 300km and first night in the car in a long time!
The car drove just well, with no leaks or noises, and normal consumption.
I'm considering an axle swap in a near future, I can have a 3.54 easily available to replace the original 4.10. I also want to add a rear sway bar, cause I have not and the car is rolling a lot in rolls and bumps.
Video of one of the first drive :
Morning on the forest
Last significant improvement in the car for a while, I had one last day before I sold my lift so I decided I could take that opportunity to replace my rear axle for a longer ratio.
So I asked to my volvo neighbor to show me his collection of 5-6 rear axles, and came back with a 1041 3.54 rear end from (probably) a 960.
Would have liked an even longer ratio, but they are rare.
I decided to swap the whole assembly cause everything seemed to be in a better shape on the donor rear end
Had to cut and weld the parking brake cable retainer to the new axle
And after a quick clean and anti-rust job it was back on the car
I'm really happy with the longer ratio, G80 locker diff, and rear anti-roll bar. And doubly happy cause my original axle appeared to be worn out, I had strange noises that disappeared with the new one.
Still have some "cloc cloc" noises at the rear when driving slowly on bumpy roads, any idea of what could it be? I checked all the bushings when the axle was on the floor and they where great, and the noise is exactly the same as before axle swap, so I'm suspecting something else...
The car drives better with the rear anti-roll bar, but it still rolls a bit. Do you know what is the bigger OEM bars I can find?
Apart of that, I found an "acceptable" solution for oil breather, is a stainless exhaust pipe for webasto diesel heater
Today I sold my lift, and I'll quit my shed this days. Haven't found a place to work on cars for the moment, so there will not be some major updates. And I consider this setup quite "finished", so I'll just do some details stuff like oil temp sensor, e-fan, more timing, and maybe dyno just to satisfy my curiosity. I'll let you know!
Bye bye lift...
So I asked to my volvo neighbor to show me his collection of 5-6 rear axles, and came back with a 1041 3.54 rear end from (probably) a 960.
Would have liked an even longer ratio, but they are rare.
I decided to swap the whole assembly cause everything seemed to be in a better shape on the donor rear end
Had to cut and weld the parking brake cable retainer to the new axle
And after a quick clean and anti-rust job it was back on the car
I'm really happy with the longer ratio, G80 locker diff, and rear anti-roll bar. And doubly happy cause my original axle appeared to be worn out, I had strange noises that disappeared with the new one.
Still have some "cloc cloc" noises at the rear when driving slowly on bumpy roads, any idea of what could it be? I checked all the bushings when the axle was on the floor and they where great, and the noise is exactly the same as before axle swap, so I'm suspecting something else...
The car drives better with the rear anti-roll bar, but it still rolls a bit. Do you know what is the bigger OEM bars I can find?
Apart of that, I found an "acceptable" solution for oil breather, is a stainless exhaust pipe for webasto diesel heater
Today I sold my lift, and I'll quit my shed this days. Haven't found a place to work on cars for the moment, so there will not be some major updates. And I consider this setup quite "finished", so I'll just do some details stuff like oil temp sensor, e-fan, more timing, and maybe dyno just to satisfy my curiosity. I'll let you know!
Bye bye lift...
Did you leave your springs and shocks in place? Could be a shock, bushing, or mount?
Very nice, I would guess that axle ratio will be a good match for the TDI engine, definitely better than your 4.10. The locker is a great upside. Looks like the whole project has finished up very nicely and now almost the only thing left to do is enjoy it, congratulations!
What a shame that you had to give up that great work space and lift, but you made good use of it on this, hope you can find a new place in the future.
I've had rear shocks make that kind of noise before, agree that would be the first place to look.
What a shame that you had to give up that great work space and lift, but you made good use of it on this, hope you can find a new place in the future.
I've had rear shocks make that kind of noise before, agree that would be the first place to look.
Back from a 1000km road trip with absolutely no problem, I calculated my fuel consumption, I was able to do 900km with 50 liters of diesel. Which means 5,55 l/100km / 42.5 MPG on countryside roads, no motorway and smooth driving.
I am very happy with that, it's even less than my previous Audi A6 with the same engine and electronic injection pump! There shouldn't be a lot of RWD Volvos with such a low fuel consumption!
Today I installed the OEM boost gauge a friend gave me, but with a "bar text style" face from @dbarton 's website. Thanks a lot to him for doing such a great work and shipping worldwide!!
After a quick swap :
And in action :
It works great and it's accurate so I'm very happy with that! I would like to find a voltmeter now to complete the cluster, but it's hard to find!
I am very happy with that, it's even less than my previous Audi A6 with the same engine and electronic injection pump! There shouldn't be a lot of RWD Volvos with such a low fuel consumption!
Today I installed the OEM boost gauge a friend gave me, but with a "bar text style" face from @dbarton 's website. Thanks a lot to him for doing such a great work and shipping worldwide!!
After a quick swap :
And in action :
It works great and it's accurate so I'm very happy with that! I would like to find a voltmeter now to complete the cluster, but it's hard to find!
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Great update and results. 42 mpg fuel economy is amazing in a car of this size. The highest I have ever seen in a D24T powered Volvo 700 series (with M46) was a long summer trip that averaged 37 mpg over several tanks. Guarantee your setup is much more powerful and uses less fuel.
The voltmeter was equipped in every stock 740 Turbo through 1990 so should be fairly easy to find, here in the US at least. My local junkyard probably has 5 of them.
The voltmeter was equipped in every stock 740 Turbo through 1990 so should be fairly easy to find, here in the US at least. My local junkyard probably has 5 of them.
Glad to hear you are having a nicely working system!
5,55l, nice! Lowest I did with mine was 6l. But im sure mine is capable of this, aswell, i just have a heavy right foot.
How is your engine sound? I've found mine not being too 5 cylinder like, but rather just an old commercial truck.
Any other 2.5TDI I tried (V70, Audi 100) had nice 5 cyl symphonies, but not the 940.
5,55l, nice! Lowest I did with mine was 6l. But im sure mine is capable of this, aswell, i just have a heavy right foot.
How is your engine sound? I've found mine not being too 5 cylinder like, but rather just an old commercial truck.
Any other 2.5TDI I tried (V70, Audi 100) had nice 5 cyl symphonies, but not the 940.
Glad to hear you are having a nicely working system!
5,55l, nice! Lowest I did with mine was 6l. But im sure mine is capable of this, aswell, i just have a heavy right foot.
How is your engine sound? I've found mine not being too 5 cylinder like, but rather just an old commercial truck.
Any other 2.5TDI I tried (V70, Audi 100) had nice 5 cyl symphonies, but not the 940.
Yeah 5.55l is really great, just like some random golf mk4 1.9tdi, and I think I can approach 5l if I have a very light foot!
I'm agree with you, the only thing disappointing me with this setup is the engine sound. tl doesn't sound much like a classic AEL / D5252T, much more like a 2.4d 5 cylinder VW T4. It make a lot of noise, I succeeded in lowering it playing with the pump timing but it's still not perfect, there is still a loud knocking noise, which is normal for a diesel, but for what I know, AEL sound on Audis is very very smooth for a diesel.
I'd be really curious to hear how your setup sounds!
Great update and results. 42 mpg fuel economy is amazing in a car of this size. The highest I have ever seen in a D24T powered Volvo 700 series (with M46) was a long summer trip that averaged 37 mpg over several tanks. Guarantee your setup is much more powerful and uses less fuel.
The voltmeter was equipped in every stock 740 Turbo through 1990 so should be fairly easy to find, here in the US at least. My local junkyard probably has 5 of them.
Yeah D24 is not too thirsty, I was doing 33-35mpg with it, but now it's really powerful and plenty of torque, I can climb whatever I want without shifting to 3rd gear and without a huge black smoke cloud following me! + It's even more reliable!
Voltmeter and boost gauges are very hard to find here since half of the cars are diesels, and turbo petrol 740 are very rare unfortunately...
If I don't find this in France I can think about buying one from you but shipping and taxes are expensive. I paid more than the price of the gauge face in shipping and taxes when I bought it to Dave Barton.
Or I could try to integrate an oil temp gauge! Are they exist? I found this on internet :
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