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Early to Late Radiator Swap Advice

R32RennSport

R32RennSport

Outlaw Amazonian
Joined
Nov 20, 2011
Location
Atascadero, CA
Looking for confirmation and a little advice. I'm swapping over my 1966 122's original open system radiator to a later closed style radiator. To start I already knew I would have to choose between modifying the radiator mounting brackets on the new radiator or cutting off the mounts at the core support. I decided to cut off the mount at the core support.

The problem I'm running into though is the outlet at the top of the radiator is 3/4 inch lower center to center compared to the original when fully seated in the core support tab. Luckily the dowel is quite a bit longer on the base on the new radiator so I was able to space it up 1/2 inch (without creating an air gap) but it still leaves the outlet sitting lower than I need. This normally wouldn't be an issue but the plastic 5 blade factory fan is a few 32nds from contact the hose which doesn't make me feel too warm and fuzzy.

My options are this. My thinking is I can attempt to lower the engine slightly by slotting the engine mount brackets at the block or what I'd prefer to do is trim the plastic fan blades down (they are already longer than the original 4 blade anyhow).

Thoughts? Advice? Has anyone ran into this issue before?
 
I'm thinking about going to an aftermarket fan but haven't pullet the trigger. Still static factory-ish setup, non clutched 5 blade setup. Either way, I'd like the option to still run a factory mechanical fan setup even if I do go electric for redundancy if the electric was to fail. I could always just go back to a four blade I suppose for the time being.
 
I ran into a similar issue on my '67. The five blade fan didn't clear the upper radiator hose when I was running 164 motor mounts (raise the engine a tad) and the later style radiator. It just barely grazed it. My solution for now is a six blade metal fan from the B18 AC kit I found in a junkyard (same diameter as the four blade) and an electric pusher fan as an "oh no I am stuck in traffic and it is triple digits outside" backup.
 
I don’t see how you guys are overheating in Amazon’s my b20 sits in traffic with ambient temp at 110 and it’s fine
Sure the gauge moves close to high but it never boils over
 
Jack said:
I don’t see how you guys are overheating in Amazon’s my b20 sits in traffic with ambient temp at 110 and it’s fine
Sure the gauge moves close to high but it never boils over
Click to expand...
In my situation it is more that I just want a backup. I found my temps getting oddly high and went a little nuts, now I just accept it if I am under 205 or 210 F.
 
Just to be clear, I'm not overheating, that's never been an issue for me and I live in an area where it is regularly 100 degrees. It only gets slightly hot after it's been sitting heat soaked or after I've been chasing Porsche's in the canyon ;)

I'm just swapping to a modern closed system so I don't have to keep refilling and checking the radiator after every hard drive ... or mopping up the overflow puddle in the garage after a hard drive. I think it will help stabilize coolant temps as well. I think it's just a smart upgrade and having an overflow tank lets me see the condition and level at a glance.
 
Last edited:
spock345 said:
I ran into a similar issue on my '67. The five blade fan didn't clear the upper radiator hose when I was running 164 motor mounts (raise the engine a tad) and the later style radiator. It just barely grazed it. My solution for now is a six blade metal fan from the B18 AC kit I found in a junkyard (same diameter as the four blade) and an electric pusher fan as an "oh no I am stuck in traffic and it is triple digits outside" backup.
Click to expand...

This is the confirmation I'm looking for, just want to make sure I'm not the only one.
 
You'll need to use the later radiator hoses and change the thermostat neck to the larger late style as well. The reservoir was made to use either a low pressure (1" deep) or high pressure (3/4" deep) cap. Volvo made them with the same part number cast into the plastic so you need to check it. Installing a high pressure cap on a low pressure reservoir means it won't hold any pressure at all.
 
hiperfauto said:
You'll need to use the later radiator hoses and change the thermostat neck to the larger late style as well. The reservoir was made to use either a low pressure (1" deep) or high pressure (3/4" deep) cap. Volvo made them with the same part number cast into the plastic so you need to check it. Installing a high pressure cap on a low pressure reservoir means it won't hold any pressure at all.
Click to expand...

Yes, thanks for checking on me but I have all these points covered. On that note even the factory replacement parts are poor quality these days unfortunately.
 
Yeah, the new production reservoirs were made for the low pressure caps so they glued a spacer in. The glue doesn't seal properly and they leak. We threw away several of them.
 
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