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Engine management for white block swap

Test Poll


  • Total voters
    19
  • Poll closed .

Jack

junkman
Joined
Jul 7, 2011
Location
The Ass Cheek Of History
Been looking into different engine management for a 240 white block plus turbo swap

Seems like maxx ecu is the one to get
Not sure if street or sport

Thoughts?
Other managements ?
 
M4.4 + VAST tune
I have this in my 244. It did not like the me7 intake manifold very much, at least not in my case. It runs excellent with the one I modified. You would have a hard time getting a stand alone ecu to run as good as this. Vast deleted most of the non essential sensors, but I had to leave the charcoal canister/evap valve attached. From memory: crankshaft, camshaft, knock (2), coolant temp, maf, boost control (tcv), evap valve, speed signal from instrument cluster and front oxygen sensor. It can use a wideband sensor if you want. You can ditch the single coil setup for a coil on plug set too.

Pro's
Much cheaper than a standalone
Proven reliability
Oem-like drivability
Very good stock knock control
Good boost control
Two maps that can be switched while driving

Con's
Wiring is harder than a standalone (in my opinion). Costs more time to go through everything.
Limited to one tuner (Vast)
You have to spent time doing 3rd of 4th gear pulls to redline multiple times until it is dialled in.
No other programmable safety's like boostcut when running lean (it does retard timing), low oil pressure engine shut off, etc
VVT control is very limited (if your engine has vvt)
Limited OBD capabilities
I think it starts to have it's limitations if you're aiming for 400hp+ (controlling big turbo's / injectors)
No flex e85 control
 
I have this in my 244. It did not like the me7 intake manifold very much, at least not in my case. It runs excellent with the one I modified. You would have a hard time getting a stand alone ecu to run as good as this. Vast deleted most of the non essential sensors, but I had to leave the charcoal canister/evap valve attached. From memory: crankshaft, camshaft, knock (2), coolant temp, maf, boost control (tcv), evap valve, speed signal from instrument cluster and front oxygen sensor. It can use a wideband sensor if you want. You can ditch the single coil setup for a coil on plug set too.

Pro's
Much cheaper than a standalone
Proven reliability
Oem-like drivability
Very good stock knock control
Good boost control
Two maps that can be switched while driving

Con's
Wiring is harder than a standalone (in my opinion). Costs more time to go through everything.
Limited to one tuner (Vast)
You have to spent time doing 3rd of 4th gear pulls to redline multiple times until it is dialled in.
No other programmable safety's like boostcut when running lean (it does retard timing), low oil pressure engine shut off, etc
VVT control is very limited (if your engine has vvt)
Limited OBD capabilities
I think it starts to have it's limitations if you're aiming for 400hp+ (controlling big turbo's / injectors)
No flex e85 control
What intake should I be looking at if not me7?
 
If you want good VVT, id go with maxxecu. I went with the Race unit because i wanted knock control.

If you dont care about VVT, m4.4 is probably fine I think it will be more complicated to get that working and get everything happy then just going to something like maxxecu
 
Are you going to swap the ecu between the cars?

If so, I think the mobile maxx app makes changing the tune file pretty easy.
 
If you want good VVT, id go with maxxecu. I went with the Race unit because i wanted knock control.

If you dont care about VVT, m4.4 is probably fine I think it will be more complicated to get that working and get everything happy then just going to something like maxxecu
Are you saying that making m4.4 will be trickier to get to work right ? If so I think so too
 
Are you going to swap the ecu between the cars?

If so, I think the mobile maxx app makes changing the tune file pretty easy.
75 244 - 850 t5 engine with manual. This is gf car that she just wants a mild hot rod and be “reliable”

75 245 (my car) - 2005 rn engine with exhaust vvt 1 still on the fence if I want to run vvt, might also swap heads later (?) Manual trans daily with k24 or t19. I have both. I hate to tinker with tuning especially if I have to email vast

75 242. My best friends car… he has dreams of making a “monster” but this is a car for his wife so it has to be auto out of 960. Right now he picked up a 110k mile 2009 turbo donor car that was wrecked

So no swapping exists between cars
 
What intake should I be looking at if not me7?
I'm afraid you have to modify one yourself.

75 244 - 850 t5 engine with manual. This is gf car that she just wants a mild hot rod and be “reliable”

75 245 (my car) - 2005 rn engine with exhaust vvt 1 still on the fence if I want to run vvt, might also swap heads later (?) Manual trans daily with k24 or t19. I have both. I hate to tinker with tuning especially if I have to email vast

75 242. My best friends car… he has dreams of making a “monster” but this is a car for his wife so it has to be auto out of 960. Right now he picked up a 110k mile 2009 turbo donor car that was wrecked

So no swapping exists between cars
gf car could be m4.4 powered. If you don't want to modify a me7 manifold then keep the stock narrowband oxygen sensor control. That worked fine with a little adjustment of the acceleration enrichment. This with stock 16T at 12-14 psi is amazing.

Go Maxx/standalone for yourself

If your friend wants a "monster" with auto then go 8hp. Can be controlled by Maxxecu. Maxxecu race can control a 960 auto.
 
I should have made it clear

Gfs and my cars will be about the same minus the different engines because it’s what we have already

I don’t mind modifying the me7 intake btw


MATCHING OK! I got my orange 245 to match her orange 244!!i

Sounds like the 242 should get maxx race

What about the other two ?
 
Last edited:
The reason he says 4.4 for GF is because you will spend a lot of time making the cold start and running characteristics perfect with anything aftermarket. Something that we wont care about, but Syd may want a car that doesn't need to be cranked for 30 seconds in the morning to start.
 
The reason he says 4.4 for GF is because you will spend a lot of time making the cold start and running characteristics perfect with anything aftermarket. Something that we wont care about, but Syd may want a car that doesn't need to be cranked for 30 seconds in the morning to start.

Is it really that hard to make cold start work right?

I’m being devils advocate here and still trying to decide which route to go
 
Is it really that hard to make cold start work right?

I’m being devils advocate here and still trying to decide which route to go
I don't know maxecu specifically, but I'm pretty certain that it's not something the auto tune can do, and it's hard to pay a guy to tune it, because you can only cold start it so many times in your session.
 
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