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S/V/C ETM fix

Well, i did the Sacer-fix on the magneti-Marelli ETM (my ETM typenumber ends with 347 so it should work)
I swapped the original TPS with it's contact tracks for the SACER magnetic contactless TPS.
(Why Volvo/Magneti-Marelli didn't use this type of contactless TPS is beyond me! Contactless seesm like a no-brainer to me )

i used the exact instructions as described in the Sacer-pdf. (even though they do not seem to be very complete)
After the swap i did the VIDA-ETM-test. I did not see the throttle plate move/open/close... i suppose i should have seen that?
i was under the impression that i would see exactly the same TPS-logs on TPS1(Sacer) and on old TPS2...
But i only see 1 super strong stable TPS1 signal, TPS 2 is at 30% all the time. It does not vary at all.

i used this install method:

I was under the imprssion that this swap would get me 2 almost identical super stable TPS signals....
Did i miss something? Did i make an installation error?

I installed the ETM on the car and it did start up but the idle is still not very stable. And the car still produces CEL-errors...

Anybody have any suggestions?
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turns out i did not miss anything, it works perfectly.
I just did not see that the 2 TPS signals produce almost exactly the same curve , they overlap almost exactly so it lead me to believe that 1 signal was missing.

Now i have a semi-stable idle but.... cil#4 decided to quit working.
changed plug, switched coils, there is spark but no burn, it pops in the exhaust... turbo pushes the hose off.
i suspect a burnt valve... monday i will have the compression tested. If nr4 is F-ed up i will ditch the car. Enough is enough.
(did i mention how much i hate CANbus cars? And why the **** did Volvo ditch those hydraulic lifters?!)
update: i managed to switch nr3 and nr4 coil-connectors... Fail! No wonder nr4 was fireing into the turbo+exhaust. The spark was fired way to late when the exh valves on 4 were already opening...
Now the engine once again runs fine on all 5.
I also managed to trace down an annoying fault: the hose between intake manifold and CBV dangled lose at the CBV. Can you say boostleak? Can you say weird idle? It must have been like that for a long time... It is in a hard to see, hard to reach area between turbo and head. I reattached that hose, this time i made sure i used a proper tiny hose clamp to keep it attached securely...
Xemodex does the repair for you, supposedly swaps out electronic components with known failure issues and gives you a lifetime warranty. Just replacing the sensor saves you money.
Xemodex does the repair for you, supposedly swaps out electronic components with known failure issues and gives you a lifetime warranty. Just replacing the sensor saves you money.

+1, also:
- xemodex is in North-America, lots of shipping costs for us in EU-land.
- Over here a company called ACtronics does the same fix except they only deal B2B. In other words as a private buyer i had no option but to DIY this fix.

my after thought: it's doable but by no means easy. It's essential to measure TPS output voltage before you do the swap and to achieve the same or very close voltage with the new Hall-effect TPS.
I would also strongly advice to connect the new TPS by soldering additional electric wiring between TPS and ETM electronics. It's much more dependable then soldering terminal to terminal (the OEM TPS was spotwelded to the ETM terminals! a much stronger connection then a soldered connection)
Wow thanks for the write up, I heard about hall sensor fix, one guy from Serbia sent ETM to those guys and it works fine, but no one believed him... anyway I have just changed the ETM on my car but kept the old one, that was fine in idle but it was problematic around 2000rpm, I just might fix it your way and have an expencive part in reserve.
you can test any ETM using a test tool in the VIDA software.
That way you know if an ETM is problematic.
After you did the fix you can do that ETM test again and you will see rock solid throttle movement and difference between TPS1 and TPS2 is almost negligeable
This is a great find, I really like the solution, and I would really like to fix my old ETM, however Im not too electronicaly inclined...
Do you get instrictions with new sensor?
Also I have access to VIDA but not the option for ETM software, however my car has a newer software instaled...
If you don't mind can you elaborate a bit more about sensor instal, checking voltages (how, hooked on the car or on the bench) ?
This thread is quite important, maybe not for majority of TB but on newer cars ETM failure is quite common.