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Extended lower control arms

C

Cheyenne

New member
Joined
Jun 7, 2023
I'm planning on lifting my 85 240 wagon about 2"-3" and I was wondering what would I need to bring the front alignment back within spec? I've heard I need to extend the front control arms but how would I go about doing that? Thank you.
 
I wish BDW was still operating... He sold a 2" trackwidth spacer kit for the front that pushed the ball joints out to correct for alignment
 
Yes, you need to extend the ball joints to get the proper alignment when you lift the front 2"-3", plus you need tie rod end extensions. I got my lift kit from BDW back in Jan '22. before he moved. The extensions need some fine tuning for good camber angles, and toe/in. Drove the car this year on a 5K mile, 7 week! trip through the Maritime Provinces of Canada. We saw Icebergs.
 
I have them. They are nice. You need to figure out your own anti roll bar end link bracket solution.
 
Harlard said:
I have them. They are nice. You need to figure out your own anti roll bar end link bracket solution.
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I've seen a complaint or two about the bushings, how have yours held up? I have a set on the shelf still have debated if I want to use them or not.
 
Stiggy Pop said:
I've seen a complaint or two about the bushings, how have yours held up? I have a set on the shelf still have debated if I want to use them or not.
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They seem fine so far. Would definitely look at getting something substantial for the rear cup bushings, as the fronts will not locate the control arm along the pivoting axis of the arm. If you plan on drifting or rallying like Bobbert, plan on reinforcing them so they don’t fold in like a taco, at least according to him.
 
Cheyenne said:
I'm planning on lifting my 85 240 wagon about 2"-3" and I was wondering what would I need to bring the front alignment back within spec? I've heard I need to extend the front control arms but how would I go about doing that? Thank you.
Click to expand...
I extended mine 2" with no problems. Check the build thread in my sig.

/edit: I'll be more helpful - https://turbobricks.com/index.php?threads/offroad-1992-245-project-sven-bjornagain.358790/page-5 - it was PAINFULLY SIMPLE to do and I've had no problems with it.
 
Harlard said:
They seem fine so far. Would definitely look at getting something substantial for the rear cup bushings, as the fronts will not locate the control arm along the pivoting axis of the arm. If you plan on drifting or rallying like Bobbert, plan on reinforcing them so they don’t fold in like a taco, at least according to him.
Click to expand...
The folded arm was due to me ditch hooking while drifting hard enough to pull the rear poly control arm bushing out of its sleeve. Can’t really fault the arms for that 🤣

But a simple taco gusset made them so far indestructible.

And 10/10 on the front bushing. I wonder if a standard FK COM bearing weld cup would fit inside the tube to replace the front bushing.
 
mikep said:
Put a tab on the strut for more effective roll control.
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That’s what volvo did on the group A cars…

And a quick google reveals ‘weld on strut mounted sway bar tabs’ are easily available, which would make that route a bit easier.

akgmotorsport.com

BMW Strut Mounted Sway Bar Tabs, Weld On - E30, E36, Z3

Our BMW E30 E36 Z3 strut mounted sway bar tabs weld onto the struts, allowing for use of strut-mounted front sway bar links. Made in USA.
akgmotorsport.com akgmotorsport.com
 

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