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EZ116K daughterboard assembly and installation guide

The EZ116K has two pins (pin 18 and 19) called 'selector pins'. By grounding these pins you will be able to modify the statical ignition timing - this means, that you will get a modified timing on part load. At cranking and full load at higher rpm's the timing will switch back automatically to stock values. Also it's not possible to switch the timing just in time - this means, the timing must be set before cranking.
 
hello or is what I can buy a EZ116K daughterboard for my 740 B204GT ' have a case not craquable!!!! thank you has you, Alex
 
Hi, does blabla still supply these? I`ve tried to send a PM but getting a error saying his inbox is full...
 
Edit: didn't realise the post you were responding to was so old!

He was responsive to me on bijlsmatechnicalinnovations@gmail.com. I recently purchased chips and a daughterboard kit from him. The email exchange sometimes had delays of a few days, but if you're patient it's all good. Everything arrived well packed.
 
As long as it's resurfaced... Do yourself a favor and ditch the crappy sockets included with this kit. I replaced mine with the following from Phoenix Enterprises:

HWS9037 28 pin DIP IC Socket Machined .6"
HWS3937 20 pin DIP IC Socket Machined .3"
 
I've finally got around to assembling the daughterboard and have finally got a multimeter with me to check something that was noted in the assembly guide, as per this thread.

SPD3h0C.jpg


i6b9Oc8.jpg


It points out specifically that last pin on the 20-pin header to make sure it's not connected to where one of capacitors is, which is very close on the PCB. I was careful to solder it, however it appears to have continuity anyway. I noticed this post earlier in the thread that suggests that perhaps it is supposed to be connected and can work fine:

Garfield said:
And there it was: a bad connection on one of the capacitors. This pin is very close another one and I had been to careful not to connect them to each other. Now I noticed the board connected them anyway, so being careful wasn't necessary. Just to be safe I re-soldered a couple of other connections too, although they seemed fine, and then I tried again. I have never been so relieved that my car didn't start.:-P
Then I changed the jumper to position 1-2, and it started up fine.
Click to expand...

Though it's confusing that the guide specifically states that you should make sure that the points aren't connected. I figure that a guide from the people who are getting PCBs made up should have reliable information, but it seems to conflict.

bRxW2hW.jpg


Is anyone able to confirm if the traces on the bare board are supposed to have continuity? The photo above is how my board currently is, which has continuity between those two points, after using a solder wick to remove as much solder as possible while still maintaining a reasonable connection.
 
That's funny. I just looked at my unassembled board and there's a big fat trace connecting those 2 holes on the other side of the board. So, the instructions are confused and yes, there should be continuity. You can see it in the corner of this picture (ignore the line between the holes, it's just silkscreen/soldermask on top of the trace).

Foto20_zps83d4d58f.jpg
 
Last edited:
bobxyz said:
That's funny. I just looked at my unassembled board and there's a big fat trace connecting those 2 holes on the other side of the board. So, the instructions are confused and yes, there should be continuity.
Click to expand...

I thought I was going nuts. Thanks for confirming it so quickly. Now I can solder it into my EZK with peace of mind! :D
 
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