I know I've made a few posts here chasing similar issues and you guys have been great help getting things tracked down and working out the kinks on my +T. For starters, the car is a '92 240 w/ an '89B230+T installed. I have the 207 EZK & a 939 ECU along with a 962 ECU backup. My issue is that although the car idles perfectly, I cannot get it to rev quickly and it sounds like the injectors get shutoff when I open throttle too quickly. It will rev fine if I open the throttle blade very slowly. I also reach a limiter around 3-3.5k rpm (spark blowout?) but if I let off and continue it will pass higher rpm's. I've gone over multiple working 016 maf sensors, multiple tps sensors, brand new coolant sensor, ngk bpr7es plugs, bosch o2 sensor, rerouted maf to pressure side, and replaced all vacuum lines and gaskets. I hooked up a fuel pressure gauge to observe if the pumps were good to idle (38psi) and stable with revs (43+) and I don't think that's the issue. I also am unable to see any boost on my vacuum gauge, perhaps I have it hooked up incorrectly? It's off of an intake nipple and routed into the cabin. Vacuum at idle is a stable 20inHG. I can't see what I'm missing here? I'll link a video to my issues so you all have a visual. I'm about ready to pull the plug on this thing and I haven't even driven it!! Thanks all and happy bricking! Link to Video!
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Failure to rev & no boost pressure?? Help!
- Thread starter vgoshert
- Start date
We usually move the AMM to the other side of the engine bay so it's draw-through, not blow-through. That's my guess.
My '92 240 when it first had the turbo added using LH2.4 computers (probably same as yours, I don't know the numbers off hand), but the AMM wiring has been carefully extended and routed back towards the firewall, along the firewall, and then behind/under the strut tower to reach the passenger side front corner of the engine bay.
edit: now that I look at this photo closely, that's the wiring done by the previous owner, it's out in the open along the strut tower. I re-did it because this was never going to last. I bought this car in 2009 with 132k and I still have it, still F+T on the original engine, showing 257k. The AMM wiring that I re-did was never an issue.
I used non-insulated butt connectors and heatshrink. On my car, the previous owner added the turbo and did this AMM relocation, but I re-did the connections so I knew it was solid and I took the time to carefully encase the AMM harness in solid (not split) sheathing that I harvested from under the dash of a 90s 240 at the junkyard.
My '92 240 when it first had the turbo added using LH2.4 computers (probably same as yours, I don't know the numbers off hand), but the AMM wiring has been carefully extended and routed back towards the firewall, along the firewall, and then behind/under the strut tower to reach the passenger side front corner of the engine bay.
edit: now that I look at this photo closely, that's the wiring done by the previous owner, it's out in the open along the strut tower. I re-did it because this was never going to last. I bought this car in 2009 with 132k and I still have it, still F+T on the original engine, showing 257k. The AMM wiring that I re-did was never an issue.
I used non-insulated butt connectors and heatshrink. On my car, the previous owner added the turbo and did this AMM relocation, but I re-did the connections so I knew it was solid and I took the time to carefully encase the AMM harness in solid (not split) sheathing that I harvested from under the dash of a 90s 240 at the junkyard.
I did have it set up this way, which is correct for a factory turbo setup, and it still had the same issues. :/ I've even gone back and tested all my wiring for correct continuity and all is good.We usually move the AMM to the other side of the engine bay so it's draw-through, not blow-through. That's my guess.
My '92 240 when it first had the turbo added using LH2.4 computers (probably same as yours, I don't know the numbers off hand), but the AMM wiring has been carefully extended and routed back towards the firewall, along the firewall, and then behind/under the strut tower to reach the passenger side front corner of the engine bay.
edit: now that I look at this photo closely, that's the wiring done by the previous owner, it's out in the open along the strut tower. I re-did it because this was never going to last. I bought this car in 2009 with 132k and I still have it, still F+T on the original engine, showing 257k. The AMM wiring that I re-did was never an issue.
I used non-insulated butt connectors and heatshrink. On my car, the previous owner added the turbo and did this AMM relocation, but I re-did the connections so I knew it was solid and I took the time to carefully encase the AMM harness in solid (not split) sheathing that I harvested from under the dash of a 90s 240 at the junkyard.
Attachments
- Joined
- Dec 23, 2006
- Location
- Rushing Lane, Scappoose, OR
What injectors you using? Stock turbo low z ones? What about the resistor pack that stock turbo injectors need? Spark blowout is from high boost pressure in the cylinder causing the spark plug to not fire. Hard to have spark blow out with no boost. I did hear the turbo spin up in the video and heard it stutter as you let off the gas so no BOV in the turbo? What turbo you using? Is the rubber tube from the wastegate hooked to that port on the front of the turbo to operate the wastegate? Hard to tell in the pic looks like it might be a long hose to something?
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Injectors are brand new bosch 850R reds, TB says they're good for high impedance n/a cars. No BOV is correct, turbo is a t3t4 from cxracing. Hoses are hooked together through a manual boost controller but maybe I should remove the controller and run stock wastegate design?
OVERDRIVE
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jul 31, 2017
- Location
- Brooklyn, Neu York
The nipple routed to the cabin has a check valve so that the vacuum reservoir for the dash vents holds vacuum. It won't see boost pressure.
Put the maf back where it is designed to go.
Fuel pressure at idle and quick revs won't reveal a dip in pressure if it's flow related. I've had dead in tank pumps and didn't even realize it.
What I think is the most likely culprit is that the hose from the maf to the turbo is collapsing.
Put the maf back where it is designed to go.
Fuel pressure at idle and quick revs won't reveal a dip in pressure if it's flow related. I've had dead in tank pumps and didn't even realize it.
What I think is the most likely culprit is that the hose from the maf to the turbo is collapsing.
It's on a separate line to the cabin, I was just being stupid and didn't know you can't see boost w/o being under load. MAF relocation was suggested by people on FB turbobricks running this same setup and I've had both locations and issue persisted. Thats the thing though, I can't get any quick revs out of the engine, only slow revs rising up to where it stutters. Should I go all in and get the D088 hose and intercooler set lol?
OVERDRIVE
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jul 31, 2017
- Location
- Brooklyn, Neu York
You'd see the hose collapsing while it stumbles, that'd be an easy thing to check before buying more parts.
Ah I haven't seen that at all unfortunately
bobxyz
board member
- Joined
- Aug 29, 2014
- Location
- Boulder CO
From the video, it looks like idle is poor and maybe missing a cylinder. Try a power balance test. At idle, unplug one injector at a time and see if they all behave about the same. You may need to give it some gas to keep it running.