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(formerly) The $700 1988 245

esmth said:
does it rip both tires in the wet?
Click to expand...

Ehh, seems like it'll take a second or two before it kicks the other tire loose, specifically if I put my foot down while turning from a stop.

It just doesn't seem to limit the slip all that much. I was doing third gear one wheel peels coming out of the second turn of Lime Rock. It's better than coming out of the corner sideways as far as laptimes, but not as fun.
 
That might be a "Front" application, which is the low torque diff. If so, you'll want to disassemble the diff and flip the side gears left to right, then reinstall the worm gears.

I bet the diff works really well in reverse.
 
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culberro said:
That might be a "Front" application, which is the low torque diff. If so, you'll want to disassemble the diff and flip the side gears left to right, then reinstall the work gears.

I bet the diff works really well in reverse.
Click to expand...

..huh

I won't claim to understand how a helical works (at all) or what you mean by side/work gears, but this might warrant reverse gear testing shennanigans.
 
Change ?work? gears to worm gears? darn auto correct.
The side gears are the ones that have the internal splines that the axles slide into.

Now with a YouTube video explaining it!
https://youtu.be/hJGSsMLaelU
 
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culberro said:
Change ?work? gears to worm gears? darn auto correct.
The side gears are the ones that have the internal splines that the axles slide into.
Click to expand...

Gotcha, gotcha. So all the gears inside the carrier would have to do a 180?

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Yep, just swap everything from the left side to the right side. If that makes sense.
So it?s like a 180, with a slide.

Check the YouTube video I posted up above.
 
I swapped the gears around the day before going to Thompson last week (went 1:34.0 at 15-16psi) aaand it's still a one tire fire. That's annoying.

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tow bar ftw

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I broke 3 of the carrier bolts even with heat. At least they broke equidistantly, 'cause I wasn't gonna spend 5 hours getting them out when a new one is $250.

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In the meantime I completed a full concours level restoration rust repair.
I also polished the tailpipe.

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I've had the carpet rolled up in a corner for years. Nice to get it back where it belongs. No clue what I did with the left side plastic piece though, that covers up the wires.

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I also went overkill on the power delivery situation. Turns out with the fans separated I only need two fuses. Room for expansion I guess.

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crispy

I really need to get around to replacing my turbo-manifold nuts. Every time I give it a real hot supper they come loose. Do nord-locks actually work for that?
 
Well that sucks that the diff didn?t increase in TBR (aka limited slipness)

The broken bolts are just weights savings, just like the rust!
What did you torque them too? I?ve never broken those, and I?ve removed many many many ring gears?

Edit: I have 100% removed a center section that way before!! :lol:
 
culberro said:
Well that sucks that the diff didn?t increase in TBR (aka limited slipness)

The broken bolts are just weights savings, just like the rust!
What did you torque them too? I?ve never broken those, and I?ve removed many many many ring gears?

Edit: I have 100% removed a center section that way before!! :lol:
Click to expand...

I guess carrier bolts was the wrong descriptor, I meant the ones holding the halves of the helical together. You can see the three broke ones in one of the pics.

I've been 'experimenting' with running 87, seems to take it just fine at 16psi with a splash of e85 mixed in. Oh yeah, I still need to get a new boost control solenoid. (don't try to clean a mac valve with carb cleaner)
 
Biennial cheap chinese parts alternator rebuild completed:

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Went to car show

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Can you believe I didn't win the favorite modified Volvo award? Some nerd in a 940 won it. Didn't even look modified.

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Probably the biggest/best thing I've done to the car all year, as far as actually driving it. A pair of Holley RetroBrights that cost me $382 shipped.

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Stock low beams vs the Holleys. Pics both taken with the same camera settings for ISO/exposure/whatever. Obviously pictures don't really give you a good sense of how good headlights actually are behind the wheel, but I still think it's a good comparison between them.

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With the high beams on I can't even tell the halogen high beams are still there. These definitely make it more obvious that my lights aren't aimed perfectly, so I still need to mess with that, but dang it's nice being able to see while a car's coming the other way.

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I did also mess around with closed loop boost control and got it working pretty good. I tried using it once in the past and couldn't get it to stop overboosting, but now, with a slightly (slightly) better understanding of PID control, I got it to follow the target pretty decently. I have created what I call the 8 valve powerband linearizer curve? which starts around 18psi at 3000 and rises to about 25psi at 6k. I'm pretty happy with it, it feels about the same as no boost controller when the turbo hits and then it just keeps going instead of the power falling off after 4k.

There's your update. Future plans.. well, those are for the future. I've only put about 5000 miles on it this year, but that darn engine and that darn m46 just keep working, part of me is always reminding myself that messing with what ain't broke is how I usually break things.
 
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I haven't driven the car much because it started leaking oil pretty substantially some months ago. At first I suspected my turbo drain (which was leaking) and tried to work together a hardline AN setup but the AN nut wouldn't clear the wastegate bracket in any way. Still need to return the AN flare tool I borrowed. Someday.

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Crispy.

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I tried making one out of hardline and bad welding, didn't seal very well. I went back to rubber hose for the time being.

Then I replaced the oil cooler arm gasket with an OEM one since I could see the block was a little wet underneath it. After that I pulled the valve cover and found the gasket had separated in the corner.

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While I was in there I welded up a new downpipe brace since the bolt together one I made broke. Either the bottle was low or I was low on skill cause it's pretty splattery.

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Note the oil cooled wideband sensor.

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Swapped out the diesel box for something a little more ricer. I was messing around with designing/3d printing an entire new filter-turbo intake but a simple 90 to the stock hose works for now.
 
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