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Getting a "oil fitting" braised to my oil pan

Freq

Active member
Joined
Mar 8, 2005
Location
VolvoSpeed
I've read lots of write-ups on +T conversions, but the one part I don't really understand is the part about welding or braising the oil fitting to the oil pan. I need to get the oil pan out, and I need to drill a hole in the top part of it for the oil return line, but what do I hand the guys at the shop to put on there? In one write-up I recall someone talking about taking part of the turbo piping and braising it on? I'm so confused~
 
This is a part I would obtain when getting all my braided oil lines? What size should I get?
 
what i did was drilled and tapped the blank on the block for the oil return that is on the turbo blocks. After I tapped the hole we ran 2 gallons of Mineral Spirit through that hole and out the bottom of of the oil pan...

Than I ran some really cheap oil through the engine till it warms up with a Motor craft filter.
 
Edited my above post w/ link to a fitting. 1/2 NPT is pretty common for this. Then all sorts of NPT to AN fitting possibilities. -10 AN size is common size for oil return.
 
what i did was drilled and tapped the blank on the block for the oil return that is on the turbo blocks. After I tapped the hole we ran 2 gallons of Mineral Spirit through that hole and out the bottom of of the oil pan...

Than I ran some really cheap oil through the engine till it warms up with a Motor craft filter.

I considered this pretty strongly, then I remembered who would be doing the work on the car (me and my houes mates) and decided to go the safer way. :)
 
If it's a B230, drill block, thread block, screw in steel fitting with epoxy or sealer. If it's a B21/23 F, pan it.
 
can the block be drilled while still in the car?

G
Yes
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But you will have to drop the pan. I supported the motor and dropped the front crossmember with the suspension.
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I have the tools to do that, I'm just scurred I'm going to KO my block. :\

BTW It's a B230F, the good ol' first gen.

Edit: I don't have an engine hoist.
 
Thats how I did mine and doing it the way i mentioned is pretty much fail proof unless your an idiot

That is what scares me. I am not an idiot but I have resembled one from time to time. I am going to get up under it and take a look. Why do you have to drop the pan first? To make sure you can clean out all the shavings?

G
 
Why do you have to drop the pan first? To make sure you can clean out all the shavings?

:nod:

The only thing I need to buy to complete my turbo kit is the oil lines and end connectors. I'm pretty nervous about buying the wrong ones.
 
putting a B230f in a 91 940 turbo

I'm having the same problems, I don't want to chance cracking the block. And finding something metric to tee in to the oil pressure sending unit is about impossible if you live in the US.
Seeing the pictures, it looks like there is part of that hole is already there inside, it just needs to be opened up. But like you I have the engine in and dropping the pan is not an option, So I will go in the pan using the exsisting line, cut and JB welded to the pan then use a piece of reinforced hydraulic hose to make up the difference.

I'm looking for a 14m 1.50 barrel nut to weld on to the Banjo bolt that came out of the f+t motor. I'll drill a small hole in the top of the bajo bolt, weld the barrel on and screw in the sender. I will still have to cut bend and braize the oil feed line to fit in the new location, but that's the easy part.
 
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