• Hello Guest, welcome to the initial stages of our new platform!
    You can find some additional information about where we are in the process of migrating the board and setting up our new software here

    Thank you for being a part of our community!

Heater core replacement '94 940T

rstarkie

Member
Joined
Jan 23, 2004
Location
Hamilton, Ohio
I’m struggling with gaining access to the heater core. I replaced one in a ’91 740 a few years ago, but the ductwork is different in this 940. Thanks to Dave Stevens and Ari Rocchio for the file in the 700/900 FAQ’s that discusses the replacement of the heater core. However, it was addressing the procedure on a 740. Once I got things apart to this point I am at a loss as to how I proceed to actually gain access to the heater core.

Have any of you done one with duct work like this? Where do I need to concentrate my effort to get to the heater core?
 

Attachments

  • IMG_2394.jpg
    IMG_2394.jpg
    631.1 KB · Views: 25
I have done several. I always remove the dash. At the point you are at now it is only 30 minutes more to remove the dash. There is no way to get at the top fasteners that hold the case together with the dash installed.
 
I have done several. I always remove the dash. At the point you are at now it is only 30 minutes more to remove the dash. There is no way to get at the top fasteners that hold the case together with the dash installed.
Thank you for your reply. I've not had the "opportunity" to remove a dash before. Is there a write up anywhere on what that involves?
 
I’m struggling with gaining access to the heater core. I replaced one in a ’91 740 a few years ago, but the ductwork is different in this 940. Thanks to Dave Stevens and Ari Rocchio for the file in the 700/900 FAQ’s that discusses the replacement of the heater core. However, it was addressing the procedure on a 740. Once I got things apart to this point I am at a loss as to how I proceed to actually gain access to the heater core.

Have any of you done one with duct work like this? Where do I need to concentrate my effort to get to the heater core?
Hey Randy. I wrote that heater core article for the FAQ while I was doing a 940 and had done two 740 heater cores just a few years before, so both were fresh in my mind and I tried to note any differences. Ari later submitted the pictures when he was doing his 740 using my instructions. Mine were all black interiors and none of the pictures I took were worth including. During subsequent FAQ edits a few paragraphs got corrupted, but basically it's all still there if you follow it step-by-step. The only signficant difference between the earlier 740 and later 940 under dash area is the passenger side airbag requiring slightly different ducts to the outside face vents, the way all the face vents are secured to the dash material, and a driver side knee vent in some of the 740 GL/GLEs, none of which makes much difference. To the best of my knowledge, the main air distribution box for all the MCC (manual climate control) systems is the same. The schematics at the end of the article show the differences between the various other systems, such as the 760/960 ACC (automatic climate control) and ECC (electronic climate control) systems.

You're making good progress, but seem to be stuck around step 22. This is the tricky bit and the place where most people get frustrated (hence my introductory note about brushing up on your four letter word vocabulary).

Once that central, main section of the air distribution box with the door is removed from the upper and lower back sections mounted to the firewall then the heater core will be exposed for replacement. The upper and lower sections and AC evaporator core stay on the firewall.

It looks like you may have skipped over step 20. That floor vent section on the tunnel needs to be removed so you have access to the lower screws. As noted in the article, there may be studs on the bottom that dig down into the tunnel padding to make it difficult to slide out. You usually need to stick your fingers underneath to keep the studs from getting caught in the pad as you pull it out.

Next stop is to part back the wiring so you can look around all four sides of the plastic lip at the back of the air distribution box section to see all the screws I mention in the article. A bright little LED flashlight will help. Once those screws are all out you just need to separate the main center section from the upper and lower back sections to expose the heater core. In addition to the screws, the center section is sealed to the upper and lower back covers with black mastic that you need to pry apart by working around the seam with a wide knife or blade. As I carefully noted in my writeup, there are three tricky screws along the top edge of the center section behind that foam collar in your pic. You'll need to get a bit creative to get at and remove them depending on the tools you have on hand. If you follow my tips you don't need to go to all the extra effort of removing the upper dash to get at them from above.

1761730991763.png
 
Last edited:
Next stop is to part back the wiring so you can look around all four sides of the plastic lip at the back of the air distribution box section to see all the screws I mention in the article. A bright little LED flashlight will help. Once those screws are all out you just need to separate the main center section from the upper and lower back sections to expose the heater core. In addition to the screws, the center section is sealed to the upper and lower back covers with black mastic that you need to pry apart by working around the seam with a wide knife or blade. As I carefully noted in my writeup, there are three tricky screws along the top edge of the center section behind that foam collar in your pic. You'll need to get a bit creative to get at and remove them depending on the tools you have on hand. If you follow my tips you don't need to go to all the extra effort of removing the upper dash to get at them from above.

I appreciate very much that you took the time to post a detailed response. I just got the heater core out. I wish I could say I was looking forward to putting it all back together. The car's interior and my work space looks totally trashed. I hope my notes will be a good source of the information I need to get the car back in the line up. Thanks for your help.
 
I did my 95 940 wagon didn't take out the dash, trick is use a squibly little 8mm I think socket to get to those upper bolts. Might be easier with the dash out. I did notice last person who did it in this car some of the vacuum lines where bolted between the parts as it's harder to see up there with dash on for sure. I labeled all the vacuum lines with blue painters tape and a sharpie, made it easier to put it back together correctly. Other then that just gotta take everything out of the way to take the thing apart to get to the core. The heater core is more in middle of it drivers side, that other side is the AC thing. Where the heater hoses go into the firewall, that is the heater core...
 
trick is use a squibly little 8mm I think socket to get to those upper bolts.
Now I remember, I used a flex 1/4" extension there. Still not easy, but made it possible. Especially with a magnetic socket.

flexible extension
 
Now I remember, I used a flex 1/4" extension there. Still not easy, but made it possible. Especially with a magnetic socket.

flexible extension
That is the only way to get at those fasteners as far as I can tell. Even with the flex drive it's almost impossible to get them out. I don't know how you would get them back in place since you can't get a direct line to the fastener. That is why I remove the dash. For me, it is quicker than messing with those fasteners the hard way. Also, I don't like laying on my side working under the dash for an extended period of time. I can do the entire job comfortably sitting upright.
 
After seeing all that it makes a 240 seem easier. These cars are built around the heater the old joke goes.
A 7/9 series heater core job is easier and the blower motor is a 20 minute job on a 7/9 series. A 240 heater core is a 10 hour job if you know exactly what you are doing. That is what people are referring to when they say the car was built around the heater. Unless you hack the case, the entire dash and heater suitcase have to come out of the body.



 
Last edited:
Oh I member now, I took out the drivers seat helps doing it in the 940.. If you don't have the magnetic socket for putting those bolts back in, I use some electrical tape to tape the bolt in the end of the socket... Ohh and for a 240 the trick is cut the corners of the middle bracket for the dash off then you can get that 240 heater box out without taking the dash off.. Auto doctor taught me that trick back in the early 90's... You might call it hacking but it's only about an inch of metal that you never see when it's all back together. Makes it a two hour job... Easy to see what I mean once you get the middle radio stuff out of the way. There are two metal brackets that stick down on each side that the middle radio stuff bolts to, cut and angle off those then the heater box will roll out, otherwise you can't get it out unless the dash is out. A little filing and paint even if the customer takes the radio stuff out, they'd never ever know... Never... Then you charge em for 8 hours labor! Har har har. Cause Alldata said 8 hours back then...




 
Last edited:
I've done the blower on 7 series and I did appreciate how much easier they made that. I had a friends one that was stinky every time the heat was on. I did the blower fan and it didn't change. I think it was the resistor but never got to change that out.
 
Thanks for everyone's responses and suggestions. I am glad that exercise is behind me. It was a physical challenge for an older guy. I thought I would point out that the screw in the center at the top of the box is easily accessed by taping the extensions and socket together (seen in the photo) and then pushing that combo through the foam collar. By looking from the side you can see to guide the socket into place on that screw. I used a heat gun to warm the mastic at the seams. I cut the zip tie that holds the driver's face vent to the wire bundle and that allowed enough movement in the duct to force the box face out enough to just slip the cores out and in. The new Nissens core can't be held in place by simply putting clamps back on each end. I slipped a thin (1/8") piece of wood 3/4" wide wood under the clamps at each end to secure the core in place.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_2408.jpg
    IMG_2408.jpg
    97.7 KB · Views: 11
Thanks for everyone's responses and suggestions. I am glad that exercise is behind me. It was a physical challenge for an older guy. I thought I would point out that the screw in the center at the top of the box is easily accessed by taping the extensions and socket together (seen in the photo) and then pushing that combo through the foam collar. By looking from the side you can see to guide the socket into place on that screw. I used a heat gun to warm the mastic at the seams. I cut the zip tie that holds the driver's face vent to the wire bundle and that allowed enough movement in the duct to force the box face out enough to just slip the cores out and in. The new Nissens core can't be held in place by simply putting clamps back on each end. I slipped a thin (1/8") piece of wood 3/4" wide wood under the clamps at each end to secure the core in place.
I'm glad you got it done. It is definitely a challenge to anyone's patience.
 
After seeing all that it makes a 240 seem easier. These cars are built around the heater the old joke goes.
I've done blower fans on a 140 and 240 and heater cores on a 700 and 900. Both are a major PITA and among the worst jobs on these cars. If you have experience taking your center console apart that's maybe 1/3rd of the job being straightforward. Tips, instructions and pics from others will help guide you through another 1/3rd of the job. The final 1/3rd is your abilties, includng sweat, patience and ingenuity. Anyone completing either job has earned a first class Brick Badge.
 
Last edited:
I have done several. I always remove the dash. At the point you are at now it is only 30 minutes more to remove the dash. There is no way to get at the top fasteners that hold the case together with the dash installed.
When the time comes to replace the heater core in my 90 745, I plan to pull the dash as 2Many suggests. Did my old 92 940 "the hard way" and I don't care to walk that broken road again.
 
Back
Top