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help needed with driveshaft alignment please

Most of the time is is a tire that is causing the vibration. It may be worth just going to a tire shop and asking for a tire balance.
 
There's an app for that:

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I am going to try ZVOLV's app suggestion above. I took the driveshaft off yet again and found a better way to line up the two arrows through the donut. I think I have it correct now; however, I also wondered about having the zerk fittings on opposite sides of each u-joint. Should I take one u-joint off and and move it so that the fitting is on the same plane?
IMG-20230507-170210-867.jpg


Pictures 2 and 3 show the current plane of the driveshaft with one zerk fitting and the other without. (it's on the opposite side)
IMG-20230507-170231-399.jpg


IMG-20230507-170235-965.jpg


Thank you for your help and suggestions as I wonder if one pesky zerk fitting is causing it to create a resonant frequency within a specified range.
 
I took the driveshaft off yet again and found a better way to line up the two arrows through the donut. I think I have it correct now
There's only 16 splines. It's either off by 22.5 degrees (that's a LOT), or it isn't.
You don't need fancy jigs or tools. An eyeball should work just fine.

Here's a pic of dorvin's driveshaft hole from 2018, with that "missing" 16th spline:

fhwRXXOl.jpg


; however, I also wondered about having the zerk fittings on opposite sides of each u-joint. Should I take one u-joint off and and move it so that the fitting is on the same plane?
The zerks are tiny, and weigh almost nothing.
They won't affect the balance at all.
 
That app is $100. No thanks.

Put the wheels in the air and spin em around and look for bent wheels. I also like that guys method of putting an impact gun and socket up to the tire and spinning it to look for runout.

You can get fancy and measure tire/wheel runout with a dual indicator and a roller tip.
 
I heard a story where a dealership replaced engine mounts, driveshaft, wheels, tires to chase a vibration that occurred when trailering. It ended up being a tire/wheel problem on the trailer. The point is, 95% of "driveshaft vibration" concerns can be fixed by correcting the tire/wheel vibration.
 
I am going to try ZVOLV's app suggestion above. I took the driveshaft off yet again and found a better way to line up the two arrows through the donut. I think I have it correct now; however, I also wondered about having the zerk fittings on opposite sides of each u-joint. Should I take one u-joint off and and move it so that the fitting is on the same plane?
IMG-20230507-170210-867.jpg


Pictures 2 and 3 show the current plane of the driveshaft with one zerk fitting and the other without. (it's on the opposite side)
IMG-20230507-170231-399.jpg


IMG-20230507-170235-965.jpg


Thank you for your help and suggestions as I wonder if one pesky zerk fitting is causing it to create a resonant frequency within a specified range.
Are you sure that the snap ring in the rear yoke, shown in the third picture, is fully seated in the groove? Doesn't appear, from the pic, to be fully seated. Good luck!
 
Are you sure that the snap ring in the rear yoke, shown in the third picture, is fully seated in the groove? Doesn't appear, from the pic, to be fully seated. Good luck!
Great catch, tbrckch! I will check that out tonight and try to get it to seat better.
 
Are you sure that the snap ring in the rear yoke, shown in the third picture, is fully seated in the groove? Doesn't appear, from the pic, to be fully seated. Good luck!
This right here was the culprit. I went ahead and checked the others and there was one more snap ring that wasn't fully seated. To an untrained eye, they looked seated, but now I know the snap rings need to be evenly seated all the way around. It now drives smoothly across all normal driving speeds. Thank you tbrcktch and everyone who has helped me get this fixed!
 
now I know the snap rings need to be evenly seated all the way around.
Not properly seated usually means the cup isn't in all the way, allowing the joint to shift slightly sideways and letting the driveshaft wobble, or whip like a skipping rope. Probably explained by your earlier comment of "Two of the cups were loose when I pulled side to side."
 
This right here was the culprit. I went ahead and checked the others and there was one more snap ring that wasn't fully seated. To an untrained eye, they looked seated, but now I know the snap rings need to be evenly seated all the way around. It now drives smoothly across all normal driving speeds. Thank you tbrcktch and everyone who has helped me get this fixed!
You're welcome, durk80. Thank you, for the thank you. Glad I was able to help out. Good luck to you!
 
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