How to remove fuel inlet line from fuel rail?

[zevio]

From the post I’ve read they say to remove the top part using a wrench but this damn thing won’t budge, and it feels like the rail will bend even with the slightest amount of pressure, any ideas?

https://i.imgur.io/MBV3fH3_d.webp?maxwidth=640&shape=thumb&fidelity=medium

 

[dl242gt]

Two long flare nut wrenches setup so you can squeeze them together for loosening. spray some penetrating oil on the junction. Let soak for at least a half hour.

 

[zevio]

Thanks I tried ur advice but no luck, this thing is really stuck on there… trying more penetrating oil now for longer

 

[threewagons]

I always try to tighten them first, just a few degrees, then try removing

 

[dl242gt]

Thanks I tried ur advice but no luck, this thing is really stuck on there… trying more penetrating oil now for longer

CRC used to sell a penetrating oil that freezes the hardware. You could try that or freezing it with some electronic freeze spray.

 

[Radtap]

CRC used to sell a penetrating oil that freezes the hardware. You could try that or freezing it with some electronic freeze spray.

Turn a can of compressed air upside down

 

[2manyturbos]

Get someone to help you by having them hold the wrench on the fuel line hex fitting. Then, use a block of wood to give your tubing wrench on the fuel line nut a sharp blow. Make sure you are already holding the wrench to take up any slack in the connection. An impulse works better than constant torque to get any connection to come loose.

 

[cleanflametrap]

Two long flare nut wrenches setup so you can squeeze them together for loosening. spray some penetrating oil on the junction. Let soak for at least a half hour.

 

[cleanflametrap]

Get someone to help you by having them hold the wrench on the fuel line hex fitting. Then, use a block of wood to give your tubing wrench on the fuel line nut a sharp blow. Make sure you are already holding the wrench to take up any slack in the connection. An impulse works better than constant torque to get any connection to come loose.

Might be near impossible to find a helper to hold one wrench against impact, but I agree the impulse works best if you could get one wrench solid against the manifold somehow, perhaps with a second block of wood. If I were to depend on a helper for anything in the garage, it would be a scheduled event.

 

[the_hairy_baboon]

Might be near impossible to find a helper to hold one wrench against impact, but I agree the impulse works best if you could get one wrench solid against the manifold somehow, perhaps with a second block of wood. If I were to depend on a helper for anything in the garage, it would be a scheduled event.

If you zip tie or clamp or hold the wrenches near each other then hitting one with a hitting object should get the impact decently.

would a warm compress (i.e. warming up the outside as fast as possible without warming the inner fitting) help too?

Also, longer wrenches (better lever arm). Would a crow foot with a breaker bar get you that longer lever?

 

[2manyturbos]

Might be near impossible to find a helper to hold one wrench against impact, but I agree the impulse works best if you could get one wrench solid against the manifold somehow, perhaps with a second block of wood. If I were to depend on a helper for anything in the garage, it would be a scheduled event.

Lol. I do this by myself. I have three arms.

 

[2manyturbos]

This always works once they have been loosened once since leaving the factory. I have had tubing wrenches round off the fuel line hex fitting because the connection absolutely would not let go. Corrosion in the threads.