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How to setup a 15g/16t/18t/19t for RWD


unbalanced chemical
300+ Club
Jun 26, 2002
Apache Junction, AZ
i know a smart man would not do this as it MIGHT hurt my selling of turbo business BUT i'm more about helping people so here goes

ok so first you get the turbo unbolt everything, and take it apart remove the guide pins ... haha and clean it (i have pics of this but i need to find them so i'll add them later)

and NOW from there you assemble it pics should speak more than words .. if you have any questions please ask




notice the drilled out hole... you need to remove the two studs and drill out the holes so it fits a 90+




now once you figure out the clocking of the center you drop it in and reinstall the snap ring (two ways to align it one is by eye and the other i will NOT tell)


remember the oil feed hole goes on TOP

now it is easy .. just clock/align the turbine with the center and bolt it on .. i have two ways of doing this one is by eye and the other i will not tell because i am a punk



once it is all together a quick and easy bracket will do the job(it is really thin and there is a nut welded onto the back of the actuator to space it off just a little to keep the thing bracket from bending along with should be enough toget some good preload and adjustment of the arm


you can see the nut i welded on for spacing

so there ya go .. does that help anyone? or make anyone want to buy a turbo from me? hehe

one key that i might not of mentioned was that if you are swaping in a Mitsu TD04HL into a 90+ turbo car will drop in with all of the OEM oil feed and return lines unless your car has a T25 in which the feed does work but requires one hell of a custom WG setup

if you have an older turbo car you WILL need to get the mitsu oil feed and return lines along w/ the water cooling lines and banjo bolts off another 90+ turbo car

OR you could build your own custom line .. which there are other threads with that info in that i will link here once i find them
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yes! i am going to be buying a turbo from you after/during my winter break...i believe it starts the 14th and i will start working soon after that...so be prepared for me to be buying a turbo from you between mid december-late january! :) i cant wait.
snap rings are so so so easy

1000x easier than those bolts on teh t3 ... i hate removing those. i took apart like 3 t3's this weekend, and two 15g's ...mmm turbos
ok thanks for the writeup. There is a 15G with 20k miles for sale at the moment, maybe i'll pick it up... :-D

Isnt it possible/easyer to use the actuator of a 13C?
not really, i'll get some pics of a 13c actuator i have here, the issue is the 13c actuator is weaker than the 15g one .. so up to you to use what you want. and the 13c one will not just bolt to the 15g it still requires a bracket to fit
you should just pickup a bunch of 90+ mani's and sell the turbo/mani's ready to bolt on...
i have like 3 90+ here so

what i need to do is find a place to get 8v head flanges and make custom manifolds with these turbos and sell bolt on manifold/turbo/downpipe setups
Just as an addendum, make sure you get the clocking right or else you'll find that your oil return is in the way of wg actuator arm. If the CHRA is allready clamped onto the turbine housing, you can loosen the clamp (don't remove it) then rotate the CHRA a little. You can also loosen the snap ring a little and rotate the comp housing without removal.

Can you tell I had to this a little bit? :oops: :)

Good write up Mike!
well if you have a 13c handy you can clock it off that, or just throw it on the car and mark it where it SHOULD be with the oil return bolted in and no compressor housing on it .. and then go from there and make teh WG bracket
i have a 95 redblock with 60k miles on it sitting on my garage floor....manifold is on it, but no turbo...is this something i should look into?? the 15g is off an 850??