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I didnt line up gears/marks when I removed T belt. Is that an issue?

burntpockethole

burntpockethole

New member
Joined
Aug 3, 2005
Location
PDX
1979 Volvo 242 B21F

Hello, its my first time changing a timing belt.
I was following the Chilton manual and it didn't say anything about lining up gear marks to index marks before removing the timing belt.
I don't think anything moved bit I want to do the front seals too. I have feeling id get into trouble If I remove the gears without indexing or aligning them.

Should I reverse and install the belt and line up first or can I just mark things now, do seals, then line up when done? Or should I... (please bestow your infinite Volvo wisdom upon me)

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As long as the engine still has the factory cam installed it is safe to turn the shafts individually to line up all the timing marks. Then, remove the sprockets if you are changing seals etc. Live and learn. Other Volvo engines are interference. You would need to put everything back together and move the shafts as a system. Use the factory marks on the engine/pulleys. Don't make your own marks and use those to time the shafts/
 
2manyturbos said:
As long as the engine still has the factory cam installed it is safe to turn the shafts individually to line up all the timing marks. Then, remove the sprockets if you are changing seals etc. Live and learn. Other Volvo engines are interference. You would need to put everything back together and move the shafts as a system. Use the factory marks on the engine/pulleys. Don't make your own marks and use those to time the shafts/
Click to expand...

factory cam still. I'll adjust first then go about my biz. Thank you 🙏
 
4 stroke make sure number one cylinder is top dead center on the crank.. Could be 180 off otherwise. Take out spark plug number one look down hole or stick rod down there make sure piston number one is up.. Also with block distributor make sure rotor is pointed to number one plug wire also.. Aux shaft cam gear distributor drive mark only works if distributor was put in correctly so the marks are then in right spot... Also on the cam gear I'd look at the actual mark on the cam gear not that metal thingy on the outside of it.. The first two cam lobes should be up left and right up in and out level with the head, not level with slanted motor.. On those b21's you can actually slip the old belt and the new belt on and off without taking off that lower crank pulley.. Unless there is a bunch of oil leaking out at cam seal or aux seal or crank seal I would not waste my time putting in new ones..
 
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I mark the belt on the face edge with a white marker on the timing lines on the belt and the marks on the dots on the pulleys.
 
If I'm removing the cam or intermediate shaft gear, I would loosen those bolts first before taking off the belt.

One thing I sometimes forget...if I'm turning the engine over by the crank pulley bolt, make sure the tensioner nut is tight so the belt is tensioned and doesn't slip.

I just did the belt on my '93 and I took these photos of the new belt in place.

The mark on the crank doesn't touch the gear when aligned, so you gotta roll it around to check or just count teeth to check it
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Intermediate shaft lined up
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Cam lined up
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I appreciate all the replies and information. Im so thankful I can learn from you all and keep this car rolling. I havent continued with the maintenance since my post but I think I can resume tonight.
 
Here are pics of the alignment on a B21. If I remember, the aux shaft alignment mark on the belt cover is hard to see (and not shown in the pic). [Note: I swapped to a '93 A/C setup, which uses a different bracket for the PS pump and compressor compared to the K-Jet setup with the big upright York compressor.] New timing belts often have white alignment marks on the outside for crank/cam/aux - beware, they won't align once the engine turns over (it takes a couple hundred[?] revs to get back to aligned).

B21FT at TDC crank gear.jpg
B21FT at TDC aux gear.jpg

Edit: I found a couple pictures that show the aux shaft alignment mark, but only at a downwards viewing angle. From these, it looks like the bottom of the pillar that can be seen through the aux gear holes is at the same level as the alignment mark.

B21FT aux alignment mark 1.jpgB21FT aux alignment mark 2.jpg
 
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On the IMS backing plate area there is a divot you can stick a small screwdriver into to help align the pulley. You want it correct because the shaft turns the distributor and the oil pump.
 
See new pics above - is the pillar what you're thinking of? I don't see any divot, or at least not on my engine, but it might be hidden out of view.
 
bobxyz said:
See new pics above - is the pillar what you're thinking of? I don't see any divot, or at least not on my engine, but it might be hidden out of view.
Click to expand...
I see a little line on the backing plate. I'm pretty sure that is what I put the small screwdriver against. Thanks for the clear pics!
 
Thank you all! It fired up and ran.

A lot of it was just cleaning and removing parts to find the marks. The intermediate gear mark was pretty hard because of how dirty everything was. I only found it after I pulled off the back cover. I found a line on the cover like dl242gt mentions above. Putting a screw driver on that line to align the gear worked.

I've still got some work to do as my water pumps top rubber seal is leaking but it should be downhill from here
 
burntpockethole said:
I've still got some work to do as my water pumps top rubber seal is leaking but it should be downhill from here
Click to expand...
in case you don't already know, you'll want to apply a little leverage and press the (new?) water pump upwards while torquing the bolts down. makes sure that the seal is properly compressed.
 
burntpockethole said:
No, I didn't already know. Found out the hard way. 🥲
I'll add some leverage this time.
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When you start to install the pump. There are two stud which have slotted holes on the pump. Use those to put the pump on and apply the leverage. With the leverage properly compressing the seal snug up the two nuts on the studs. Then you will be able to start the other bolts.
Don't go too crazy compressing the pump upward. Don't forget to clean up the surface on the cylinder head where the seal goes against it. You can use some fine grit cloth to smooth it out.
 
dl242gt said:
I see a little line on the backing plate. I'm pretty sure that is what I put the small screwdriver against. Thanks for the clear pics!
Click to expand...
Yes, that is the aux sprocket timing mark. It was obvious to me because I know what I'm looking for having struggled to find the darn thing in the past. It is usually filled in with dirt/oil and is undetectable.
 
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