• Hello Guest, welcome to the initial stages of our new platform!
    You can find some additional information about where we are in the process of migrating the board and setting up our new software here

    Thank you for being a part of our community!

jvab strut revalve?

Cwazywazy

Cwazywazy

Single jingle
Joined
Aug 20, 2016
Location
CT
jvab coilovers for 240

Wondering if it's possible to revalve these myself without breaking everything. I was hoping there'd be a sort of oem stock replacement strut but it seems this is rally stuff modified to fit. Too stiff, so what can I do about it? Currently running 14x175 front springs and cut stock rear 244 springs. It's actually not bad for driving on really crappy roads but on sort of mostly smooth roads it's just too jiggly and not right.

Looks like gaz makes an at least similar type strut but I couldn't find any dimensions on them.

I think the struts are bilsteins but the only writing on them is "do not open" in German. I don't speak German so can I open them? I think the cap around the piston pries off and then there's a snap ring under it, but how do you deal with the gas charge?

1764646506433.jpeg

1764646607308.png
 
Last edited:
Bilstein can revalve them. What spring rates are you running?

I’ve had issues with JVAB struts bindings due to the placement of the lower bushing overlapping the bottom of the strut insert. Moving the bushing fixed most of the “stiff” issues.
 
culberro said:
Bilstein can revalve them. What spring rates are you running?

I’ve had issues with JVAB struts bindings due to the placement of the lower bushing overlapping the bottom of the strut insert. Moving the bushing fixed most of the “stiff” issues.
Click to expand...
Started with 12x225 and switched to 14x175, made no big difference to me. By bushings do you mean the liner inside the strut tube?
 
Cwazywazy said:
Started with 12x225 and switched to 14x175, made no big difference to me. By bushings do you mean the liner inside the strut tube?
Click to expand...
Does the strut insert compress and extend properly, or is it seized?

Regarding the bushing question:
There should be two bronze bushings in the strut tubes.Measure from the top of the strut to the bottom edge of the lower bushing. Now take your insert and measure how far it sits inside the tube when fully extended.
The bottom of the strut insert has to be lower than the bushing, otherwise the strut insert will dig into the bushing. I’ve had to fix a few sets of JVAB struts where the insert was scraping the bushing away and it would jam the strut.

Other issue with JVAB struts, the bushings are not concentric or aligned properly.

You can buy 40mm ID strut tubes from the UK with good bushings and seals for cheap. Might be easier than fixing the JVAB bushing issue.
motorsport-tools.com

Coilover Strut Tube - Adjustable Ride Height 14.5" with DU Bush & Seal 40mm ID

Coilover Strut Tube - Adjustable Ride Height 14.5" with DU Bush & Seal 40mm ID
motorsport-tools.com motorsport-tools.com
 
classicswede said:
Are the Jvab struts not 50mm rather than 40mm? I am sure I read he was using 50mm inserts
Click to expand...
He made both.
With a 2.5” ID spring, the spring seats will almost touch the 50mm insert, and they will be thin on the threaded side. 40mm have a large gap.

Unless these are 3in ID Springs, which could have been used I guess.
 
classicswede said:
Images are not showing for me, just says not available in my region
Click to expand...
In my op? try now

they are 40mm by the way

I haven't noticed any binding or bad noises but maybe I oughta take out the springs and see what happens when I drop it.
 
Cwazywazy said:
In my op? try now

they are 40mm by the way

I haven't noticed any binding or bad noises but maybe I oughta take out the springs and see what happens when I drop it.
Click to expand...
You can stroke the strut by hand without a spring on it. Install the insert into the housing, push down. It should be smooth and supple, returning to full extension without assistance.
 
1765158445329.png

Confirmed that my strut strokes smoothly and supplely

6 inches of travel to the bump stop (idk what stock is)

1765158702151.png

I'm gonna need a thread chase or die to get this one out, the bottom threads are smushed in from interfering with the ball joint stud and I can't screw it out more than halfway. It was like this when I got it, I ground down my balljoint studs and some of the welds inside to clear.

1765158665333.png

I don't have any pics of the inside of the other one (which I could actually remove) but I remember a brass looking liner all the way down the tube.
 
I should elaborate on what I want to fix I think. I like the ride height and the alignment as it sits (running bne strut mounts+luxe steer modified to fit (The jvab strut mounts were perfectly centered for no camber, I suspect he doesn't have a mill)) but it feels too stiff going over big bumps on the highway and stuff, like the front lifts up too much and I can feel the whole car flexing. There's one bump on i84 west in the left lane in a corner that feels like the front wheels come off the ground going over it. And then when I'm driving on smooth roads it bounces fore and aft a bit, but I suspect that's more to do with springs/ride fequency or maybe because of how stiff and rusty the sts delrin control arm bushings are. Ever ride in a slammed car that just kinda pogos back and forth all the time? That sort of feeling.

This used to be my back roads/trackday/winter beater car but 80% of my driving now is highway so I demand comfort and luxury, but I refuse to compromise the on ramp cornering excellence.
 
A few takes on this:
1. Rally struts are valved stiff with digressive curves (99% of the time), but sprung soft. Sometimes this can lead to a harsh response over seams/cracks. A linear or less stiff digressive valve and piston stack, or more high speed bleed can help here.

2. If the nitrogen pressure has dropped, they’ll smash around and ride like poo. The shaft will move very easily and then get very stiff when pushed in by hand.

3. Strut binding in housing.
4. Valving is just too stiff for your preference.

Regarding the smooshed up threads, that sucks.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top