Link/ haltech b230ft

[740turbosedan]

Hey guys, very green in terms of aftermarket efi and im after some knowledge.
Engine is a b230ft with forged rods that’s in a 740 wagon lh2.2

I’m sure this topic is beaten to death already and I’m just not looking in the right places however, what sensors, injectors, ect is compatible with a haltech or link ecu? From my understanding you need a new tps and maf but I’m very unsure of what else needs to be changed and what will work. Also microsquirt works with a halleffect dizzy?

I know some people will not like me getting rid of the 2.2 but I much rather the security of a modern ecu putting down reasonable power figures

cheers from Australia!

 

[HiSPL]

I’m running a Microsquirt on an LH2.2 motor. Using:

stock distributor
stock coolant temp sensor
a Volvo 850/S70 TPS with a 3d printed adaptor
GM IAT
GM 3 bar Map sensor.


Runs great. I pull the RPM reference from the stock coil.

 

[740turbosedan]

I’m running a Microsquirt on an LH2.2 motor. Using:

stock distributor
stock coolant temp sensor
a Volvo 850/S70 TPS with a 3d printed adaptor
GM IAT
GM 3 bar Map sensor.


Runs great. I pull the RPM reference from the stock coil.

That’s a very compelling case to go microsquirt, I’ll have to find a couple articles to read about it.
Cheers for the reply!

 

[HiSPL]

That’s a very compelling case to go microsquirt, I’ll have to find a couple articles to read about it.
Cheers for the reply!

If you search using my name here you should find all you need.

Nearly everything I found online was using a crank position sensor. Mine is not.

Truthfully it was a lot scarier to research it than it was to actually do it. In the end it all seems so simple, but I was very confused when I started! Lol

 

[bobxyz]

All aftermarket ECUs will work with a LH2.2 hall distributor. While you can use the original MAF sensor, it's much more common to add a MAP Manifold Pressure sensor and a IAT Intake Air Temperature sensor. MAP based ECU fueling control is called "Speed-Density".

If you want to learn a lot about how engines really work, you can tune an aftermarket ECU yourself (you'll need a wideband O2 sensor installed, plus time and patience). Otherwise, you'll need to find a tuner in your area. I'd ask around and see what aftermarket ECUs are common in your area, and maybe ask for a demo of the ECU and tuning software. Most tuners have preferred ECU brands and won't support others.

 

[HiSPL]

All aftermarket ECUs will work with a LH2.2 hall distributor. While you can use the original MAF sensor, it's much more common to add a MAP Manifold Pressure sensor and a IAT Intake Air Temperature sensor. MAP based ECU fueling control is called "Speed-Density".

If you want to learn a lot about how engines really work, you can tune an aftermarket ECU yourself (you'll need a wideband O2 sensor installed, plus time and patience). Otherwise, you'll need to find a tuner in your area. I'd ask around and see what aftermarket ECUs are common in your area, and maybe ask for a demo of the ECU and tuning software. Most tuners have preferred ECU brands and won't support others.

This is what I did.

Delete the MAF, add an IAT in it's place. Add MAP. I used an AEM Wideband with guage that directly interfaced with the Microsquirt.


The LH2.2 distributor gives you 4 triggers for ignition events per revolution. The coil fires all four events but the distributor directs the energy to the proper cylinder. The trigger teeth in the dizzy are extra wide so you use something called "trailing edge" (falling edge?) ignition trigger. This let's the ECU know that the back end of the trigger pulse is ) degrees advance and the leading edge of the pulse is max advance. The LH2.2 Dizzy supports around 30 degrees of advance IIRC. Of course the dizzy itself is rotatable and could be advanced/retarded a little bit more.

 

[HiSPL]

I also forgot, you'll need an ignition amplifier for the Coil. One from a P80 or 960 will do. It's what I used.

 

[restomog]

Hopefully its okay if I piggy back on this thread. We have a b230ft in a 240 and are trying to run a haltech elite 550. We have an lh2.2 distributor, lh2.4 crank sensor with 60-2 flexplate, gm coolant temp and iat sensors and are using the built in haltech map sensor, haltech wideband, and volvo 850 blue injectors. We've gotten the car to cough and sputter with a default setup in haltech but cant get it to stay running. I'm grateful for any help anyone can give.

 

[HiSPL]

You should start a new thread. It’ll take a while to work through this