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Liqui Moly MOS2 20w50 would you use this oil in a turbo

hessam69

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 19, 2009
Location
Sydney, Australia
Hi,

I've been using the grey coloured Liqui Moly MOS2 20w50 oil in my non turbo cars.

Is this oil safe to use in a turbo B230FT? Especially in winter, worried that it might be too thick for the turbo bearings. I would use the 15w40 equivalent, but 20w50 is the only viscosity that is available in Australia that contains the molydenum disulphide additive.

Thank you
 
So inhave found that even 15w 40 is to thick for a cold start. And I am talking 50deg morning. My oil pressure will spike to over 120psi. I had no clue this was happening until I got a standalone. Stick with synthetic 10w30. Use synthetic because it doesn't coke up with all the heat produced
 
What's the reason you want to use the MoS2 oil?
I've been using the gold colored Liqui Moly 10w40 for years and I don't see why I should use the MoS2 equivalent to be honest.
We have temperatures ranging from -10 to +35c
 
I've used 20-50W M1 for 20 years in my turbo. I agree it's not the best for cold start but it's worked well for me. A 20-50W synthetic is going to be much more slippery than a conventional 20-50w oil.
 
Thank you for the replies.

The grey moly additive in the oil apparently helps with wear protection and lessens friction.

Fortunately Liqui Moly makes the additive available in a small can which you add to your oil.

It's been recommended by many to be a good product

 
Moly disulfide is the key ingredient of break in lubricant. It's good to burnish it into the metal which you can do by hand. We used to use a product called G paste for that.
 
10w30 mobil 1. 466k on an original engine and turbo is a good indicator (not volvo, but an engine that supposedly eats turbos by 70k.
I can go into why wide split oils like 5w40 is not good and why the concept of zero as a viscosity is silly if you want.
 
10w30 mobil 1. 466k on an original engine and turbo is a good indicator (not volvo, but an engine that supposedly eats turbos by 70k.
I can go into why wide split oils like 5w40 is not good and why the concept of zero as a viscosity is silly if you want.
I for one would like to hear more about why those oils are not a good idea. I tend to run 10w30 castrol gtx in the winter and then when its super hot in the summer I go to 15w40 rotella diesel oil. I change the heavier diesel oil more frequently at the recommendation of a friend who claims its lubricity doesnt hold up as well due to detergents and my engine not being a diesel
 
The wide range viscosity oil have more viscosity improvement chemicals. As those chemicals wear in your oil the viscosity may change over time. Personally, I use them because the chemicals got better over the years and I don't think the viscosity improvers break down in the oil as much as in the past. I generally use Rotella T6 or M1 in the 5-40w or 15-50w respectively.
 
I can go into why wide split oils like 5w40 is not good and why the concept of zero as a viscosity is silly if you want.
Please do, I haven't heard this regarding the wide split.

I like 5w40. It works. I change it when I feel like it.
 
First, the wider a split between the cold (5w) and hot (40) viscosity ratings, the larger and/or great quantity the viscosity modifiers need to be. The greater the amount of additives (friction modifiers, viscosity index improvers ("VII"), detergents, anti-foaming agents, etc) you add to oil, the less base oil you have in the mix, and the more rapid the breakdown of the oil through shear, coking, etc.
The larger the viscosity improvers are, the greater the temporary shear thinning.
Especially with non-synthetic bases (including some ultra-refined petroleum oils masquerading under the term "synthetic"), there are possible severe adverse effects from the index modifiers. 10w30 has a 3x split, and is stable. 20w50, 2.5x split. 5w40, 8x split. So if you really feel the need to run 5w40, make it the best. Mobil1, etc.

Here's a summary article that explains a lot (page sponsored by amsoil):
some quotes:

"In other words, what this means is that a 30 grade oil has pretty close to an ideal viscosity (around 10 cSt) at operating temperatures but is way too thick when cold (around 250 cSt) whereas a 10W grade oil has a more acceptable/desirable viscosity (around 30 cSt) when cold but is way too thin (around 5 cSt) at operating temperatures.


* Again, kinematic viscosity is the amount of time, in centistokes (mm2/s), that it takes for a specified volume of lubricant to flow, under the force of gravity, through a fixed diameter orifice at a given temperature. "

and

"
To make sure the VII is used in the most cost-effective way, polymer thickening efficiency is also important. Thickening Efficiency (TE) describes the boost in Kinematic Viscosity at 100°C of an oil following the addition of a specific amount of polymer. A polymer having a high TE indicates that it is a potent thickener. TE is primarily a function of polymer chemistry and molecular weight.


The downside to mineral-based multigrade oils is that they require a lot more VII in order to meet the proper viscosity requirements. Problem is, the VII additive wears out (shears) over time, effectively reducing the oil’s viscosity, until the oil becomes too thin to provide adequate protection (which is one of the reasons it needs to be changed more often than synthetic oil)."

and
"
Oil experiences very high stresses in certain areas of the engine such as in the oil pump, cam shaft area, piston rings, and any other area where two mating surfaces squeeze the oil film out momentarily.


An oil’s viscosity can be severely affected when an engine is exposed to high temperatures and the high shearing forces that are created when an engine is operating under load. These high temperatures and shearing forces can cause an oil to thin out and lose its load carrying ability, resulting in engine wear."

and

"
As oil is squeezed between two mating surfaces, such as between a bearing and a journal, VII polymer molecules, or coils, have a tendency to align with each other and get “squashed”. This causes the polymer coil to deform (elongate/stretch) and become aligned to the direction of flow.


When this happens, viscosity temporarily drops resulting in oil film thickness reduction. After the oil progresses through the bearing, the polymer coils “spring back” to their original shape and viscosity returns to normal. This phenomenon is referred to as temporary shear-thinning.


In certain high shear conditions, the long flexible polymer chains can be ruptured or pulled/ripped apart (molecular scission) into smaller chains. When the shearing force is removed, the broken polymer chains cannot re-form into the single large chain because the coil has been physically and chemically changed.


Consequently, this causes the oil to permanently lose viscosity leading to a reduction of oil film thickness which can lead to oil film failure and an increase in engine wear. For example, an SAE 5W-30 oil can ‘shear back’ to an SAE 5W-20 oil or worse, resulting in damaging deposits, increased wear, and reduced engine life. This phenomenon is referred to as permanent shear-thinning."
 
Because the bearing clearances in a redblock are about the same as what you would see in a normal 4-cylinder. People that run 15w here usually do it to hide piston slap on cold start. You want enough film strength and lubricity on cold start, with good flow characteristics. Unless it’s 150° ambient, I would not call 15W a good idea.
I for one would like to hear more about why those oils are not a good idea. I tend to run 10w30 castrol gtx in the winter and then when its super hot in the summer I go to 15w40 rotella diesel oil. I change the heavier diesel oil more frequently at the recommendation of a friend who claims its lubricity doesnt hold up as well due to detergents and my engine not being a diesel

Mike, while I appreciated that article for contextual knowledge, it is in itself lacking specific supporting material. I’m not drawing any conclusions as a result from reading it, other than that oil breaks down with use and further spread in weights equates to shorter intervals. Beyond that, the article concludes with “beware of fake synthetic, buy Amsoil for your 24,000 mile change interval”.

So sure, it makes sense: don’t extend oil changes with motor oil based on group III base oils and buy into Amsoil’s sales pitch.

I’ll keep using base V oil and change it every 6 months, because I don’t drive enough for runtime to break down my oil as much as oxidation goes. The article does not provide specific enough guidelines to convince me to change my habits :twocents:
 
I only used that article because it summarized what i have learned from lots of sources over the years.
I hear anecdotal things, old stuff, new stuff, rumors, then i research. Since I teach auto tech, i need to plan more than enough for a time span, and try to be ready for any questions.
I have had to dispel a few myths along the way, but most of the old wisdom is fairly correct.
Regarding oil, some adjustments in recommendations are due to much better oil but much more complex and severe requirements.
 
I have heard for some years that the best viscosity of oil is 15w40, I remember reading some tests that this grade holds it's viscosity for the longest time, trouble is I don't know of any 15w40 synthetic available in Australia, can get 15w50 though and 10w40 too
 
I'm no oil exspurt, but I can say that coming from the old air cooled motorcycle engines that would spin 10k rpm, most of us would use Rotella T4 15-40 and be just fine. These are bikes with wet clutches too, so lots of clutch material floating around in the oil. These bikes would still hit 100k miles with regularity. Very, very few main bearing problems in general.

Nothing wrong with Diesel Oil, and it doesn't "loose lubricity" faster than other oil. Just the opposite in fact. It is designed for much longer drain periods than the regular stuff. And it does that while holding a ton of carbon and dirt in suspension. Evry modern diesel has a turbo as well. Doesn't seem to be a problem.
 
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