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M47 conversion

Old Iron

I Roll
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Jun 18, 2009
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Dela-Where?
See post #31 - thread recycle.

Converting my 1991 AW71 240 car to M47. I went to begin swapping pedal assemblies and noticed a lot of differences. My car has cruise control, does the bracket separate from the auto set-up? Also, does anyone have a how to video, looks like I need to remove a lot more components then I originally anticipated. Any help is appreciated!
 

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sbabbs

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Rushing Lane, Scappoose, OR
Seems like my manual 740 with cruise has two of those switches one for the brake and one for the clutch. Just checked, yes it does. Two of those vacuum switches.
 

240Redblock

Member
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Jun 17, 2020
Location
Las Vegas, NV
I don't have pictures, but have done this on many 240s it's been a while so the values I present might not be exact, but in general this is how to do it:

It's much simpler than you're making it, cruise control will stay with gas pedal, if it gets in the way just remove it for now. The old pedal box comes out in one piece, you can remove switches or just disconnect them. Do no remove anything else just unclip relays from the pedal box and put them to the side. Make sure the brake booster is disconnected completely and has room to pull toward the front of the car, take the pin out of the pedal rod and drop the steering wheel bracket (may need to let the whole assembly drop i.e. bolts just under the wheel itself) and when all is free rotate the whole assembly counter-clockwise and maneuver it out the left side. It's a pain, but it'll come. There is a stamped boss in the firewall where the hole for the clutch cable needs to be drilled (it's unmistakable once you know what to look for) a simple search will show you exactly where, use a stepped bit and drill it to just big enough for the grommet to fit in (I think 1/2 inch-). This is all the modification required, just swap tranny and driveshaft, the cross-member will be moved (backward I think) to the alternative bolt holes for the manual setup, don't bother with the rubber mounts for this I prefer the solid brackets as the flex-disc takes all the harshness of shifting. Make sure to get the proper flex-disc, my experience with the MTC is that it lasts all of 10,000 miles before it can shred itself, there are many alternatives for bmws, mercedes, and the like. You'll need a shift boot, the shift tunnel foam insulation (it helps), adjust the neutral-safety wiring (from PRNDL switch) to reach the clutch pedal switch (if you like these, I normally just hard-wire to closed circuit and forget about it).

!!! Make sure to align the flywheel to the proper timing! If I recall correctly: the gap in the reluctor wheel should point toward the starter when engine is on TDC cylinder 1. !!!

It's pretty straightforward from there and you'll be very happy when done.

Good luck!
 

283SD

Active member
Joined
Mar 8, 2008
I had a complete set up for a 5speed conversion, there is a small harness that is part of the wiring plugged in the dash harness that has some thing to do with the clutch switch / starter circuit
 

JohnMc

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May 10, 2004
Location
St. Louis
It's been a long time (over 10 years? almost 15?) but I just trimmed that last bit of the manual pedal box off y donor box, and bolted it into my car next to (and partially on top of) the automatic box. Just swapped the manual brake pedal in for the automatic, bolted in that side of the bracket (the auto pedal box already has the two holes where bolts for the clutch pivot and stop go). It's firmly held by two bolts where it would otherwise be spot welded to the main box, nothing is lost in strength or rigidity there.

I've been using it for close to 15 years like that, with various stouter than stock clutches, no issues. Seemed like it was far easier to do than swapping out the entire pedal box. Didn't even have to touch the gas pedal (cruise control still works with the LS swap in there now).

Drilling the hole is certainly a bit of a pain. I used a right angle drill - very shallow in the head, easily fits in behind the dash. And a cone bit - just went bit by bit until the cable barely fit through. And had to drill out a lower hole more recently to convert to hydraulic.
 
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Old Iron

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Dela-Where?
Thanks for all the responses guys. Sounds like one hole at ~1/2 to accommodate the size of the grommet in the clutch cable!
 

sbabbs

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Dec 23, 2006
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Rushing Lane, Scappoose, OR
THe cruise vacuum switches are to cut the cruise control off when you hit the brake or push the clutch pedal. Not sure what that guy above is thinking by saying leave it attached to the gas pedal? Cruise control is attached at throttle body control to control cruise speed with that vacuum actuator on the motor..

You should have those pedal cruise cut offs hooked up or if you hit brakes and motor keeps going? Push in clutch and motor revs to the moon trying to go?
 

2manyturbos

Moderator
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Mar 8, 2003
Location
Monroe, OR USA
The cruise actuator actually attaches to the gas pedal on the last version of 240 cruise control. That is what he is referring to. That system uses the same vacuum pump the 7-9s use and have a vacuum actuator attached to the pedal box.
 

Harlard

Hurlurd?Harland?Bueller?
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May 11, 2007
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PDX
if you are worried about the brake and clutch disconnect switches, their respective brackets bolt to the pedal box. You may need an extra for the clutch itself. If you can't find one, it's easy enough to wire the brake light switch to a relay that pulls to ground and use the brake light disable switch on the clutch.
 

white855T

Active member
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Sep 8, 2013
Location
Dallas,TX
Does anyone have a photo of the holes that need to be drilled for the clutch cable?

51047034978_721acd5153_c.jpg
 

sbabbs

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Dec 23, 2006
Location
Rushing Lane, Scappoose, OR
Possibly Harald but the cruise cut off switched release the vacuum they are vacuum switches and it releases the vacuum from the actuator and turns it off or lets the gas pedal off the gas so saying use a letric dealio to make it work good luck with that..... See how they are all connected with a vacuum hose and to the actuator also????\\


As far as finding extra ones 740, 940, 240 they all the same..
 

Harlard

Hurlurd?Harland?Bueller?
300+ Club
Joined
May 11, 2007
Location
PDX
Possibly Harald but the cruise cut off switched release the vacuum they are vacuum switches and it releases the vacuum from the actuator and turns it off or lets the gas pedal off the gas so saying use a letric dealio to make it work good luck with that..... See how they are all connected with a vacuum hose and to the actuator also????\\


As far as finding extra ones 740, 940, 240 they all the same..

Thought the later cars were electrically operated? Oh well.
 

JohnMc

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May 10, 2004
Location
St. Louis
I think it's both - electric to shut the CC off, and a vac switch to dump the vac in the system to more immediately cut the throttle.

I've never bothered to add a clutch switch to mine for the cruise control - just... don't push the clutch in, slow down, and then sit by idly while the motor revs maybe? Tap the brake or tap the control stalk to turn it off. Certainly not saying that's a best practice, of course.
 

2manyturbos

Moderator
Joined
Mar 8, 2003
Location
Monroe, OR USA
They are both electrically and vacuum valve cancelled. The manual cars have the same switch/valve on the clutch pedal and both the electrical harness and vacuum line are connected to that valve. Barely pushing either the brake or clutch pedal cancels the cruise.
 

sbabbs

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Dec 23, 2006
Location
Rushing Lane, Scappoose, OR
Okay looks like you aleady got the spot for the switch for the clutch pedal cruise cut off on that same plate see?




Then get another one of those switches and wire it up to the other switch here is how look at mine I took these pics and uploaded them so you could figure it out.







 
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