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MaxxECU Questions and Support/Purchase: Post them here

Boxtoy940 said:
Im still waiting on a few pieces (sensors) for the engine side but have much work to do than just sit and wait....Maxx is mounted in original ecu location and flying lead harness wires are somewhat organized and wrapped for simplicity...Whats my next move, what would you be doing from here? I think it would get more simpler once I get the flying lead harness in the engine bay to wire in the sensors....
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I’d probably start with some research. Your maxx uses GPO’s (general purpose outputs) to drive things. This is mostly so that you can configure it to run any number of different applications. In this case, I would diagram out what you want the ecu to run and then remove any other wires from the connector. It’ll make it easier to wrap your head around what you’re doing and how to handle it.
 
Yes, research has been done on how to build/wire an auxiliary fuse/relay panel but I cant grasp the concept of the wiring and the connections...I know how to test whether a wire is positive or negative with a Test light and comfortable measuring volts but that is as far as I trust my own skill...
 
I want the ecu to run the fuel, ignition, tach, speedometer, fan, a/c as well as the engine components in the car...
 
I have spent all of yesterday reading/researching electrical-related videos and blogs...I believe that I could build a fuse/relay panel or just buy a pre-wired one but cant grasp the wiring that is needed to make the connections...Then there is the concept of always hot & switched power that I cant grasp with some components needing grounding to be powered up...Electricals just happen to be my rocket-science course...I know that I could grasp it if I had someone PRESENT teaching me (hands-on) while using the multimeter but unfortunately I dont have that luzury here...
 
Ive seen and read where some folks work from the engine-side to the cabin whereas Im trying to work from the cabin to the engine because the fuel pump relay is in the cabin and I wanted to square off with this before proceeding since my fuel pumps relay wiring is directly connected ( pumps relay wiring connector is Broken-off from underneath the panel)...Also, according to the wire-diagram for the car (see, I have been researching) , some of the wires on the pumps relay goes to the amplifier and fuel injector relay..Im not sure If I need the fuel injector relay and/or ballast resistor for the Maxx at all...I just need a little push and guidance as to what is needed or Not for the Maxx install...I can handle just about any of the Mechanical aspect of the car, its just that my feet & Brain gets caught in the Quicksand of any altering or configuring of the electricals; especially with a task this huge...
 
Yes, there are plenty of gpo wires within the Maxx flying lead harness but are those wires Positive or Negative...I asume positive since you stated that they are used to drive (power) things...Just want to be clear and sure about the electrical lingo here...Am I correct in thinking to just keep a healthy pigtail on the connectors to the components that I will be reusing for the car ? (e.g. idle motor, tps etc...)
 
If you read the manual for the maxx, those gpo are user selectable to be either pull to ground or pull to power.

injector relay only provides power to the injectors, the ecu grounds them. So might want to use that if possible. Unless you want to run a new fused power to the injectors. Resistors are needed for low resistance injectors, not needed for high resistance injectors.

www.maxxecu.com

MaxxECU support

MaxxECU support
www.maxxecu.com www.maxxecu.com

Injector outputs (INJ)

Note: Injectors are not polarity sensitive, but direct them all the the same way.
www.maxxecu.com www.maxxecu.com

Relay

Relay wiring using a LOW (GND) output from MaxxECU.
www.maxxecu.com www.maxxecu.com

Digital inputs

MaxxECU has digital inputs (DIN x) that can be used to trigger certain Digital input functions.
www.maxxecu.com www.maxxecu.com
 
With all being said then I guess my 1st move will be to tie the Maxx into the the fuel system relay since it powers and activates the fuel pumps, ignition amplifier, injector relay and ballast resistor?
 
There are injector wires in the Maxz flying lead harness which if I were to cut would pretty much not be in Sync with the components that controls them or should I be splicing something together here..I believe the Maxx Sport has options to select Low or High Z injectors and if so then the ballast resistor shouldnt be necessary to keep...Does anyone know if the Maxx fuse & Relay panel Simplifies this process as the site says the pre-assembled wires are also labeled...There has to be a more simplified process to this...
 
Boxtoy940 said:
There are injector wires in the Maxz flying lead harness which if I were to cut would pretty much not be in Sync with the components that controls them or should I be splicing something together here..I believe the Maxx Sport has options to select Low or High Z injectors and if so then the ballast resistor shouldnt be necessary to keep...Does anyone know if the Maxx fuse & Relay panel Simplifies this process as the site says the pre-assembled wires are also labeled...There has to be a more simplified process to this...
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It doesn’t simplify anything. It just gives you relays and fuses if you don’t have them.

Read the article on injectors that I posted.
 
Does that mean I can have an in-line fuse installed between the Maxx flying lead injector wiring and the pigtail of the injector connectors? Apologies if this sounds weird but I only comprehend electricals on a very basic level..
 
I don’t have any more ways to explain this. Your current engine harness has a wire the goes from the fp relay, to the fuse box, to the injector. The second wire at the injector goes from the injector to the ecu (on your maxx this is the injector wire).

Injectors are electrical solenoids or coils or valves that operate when current travels through them. This is fundamentally how any electrical component works. Power can go in (constant, hot, switched, fused, etc) but no current travels through unless it has somewhere to go (ground, earth, negative).

Your ecu controls the negative side. You are responsible for the positive side.

If you follow the wiring diagrams for the maxx ecu (print it, grab a pen, trace the lines if you need to). From the component (whatever it may be and will likely have a numbered pin/slot/recepticle) one line (each line is a wire) at a time it will likely show you where it needs to go, either a power source, or a ground source.
 
Im with you here on the explanation but Should I expect the Maxx to ground the same components that the factory ecu grounds...I dont want to go about assuming that the Maxx will replicate the switching and grounding that the Bosch lh 2.4 system does as that could be a costly mistake..Nothing has been done as of now...Should I go about wiring up the fuel pump circuit to the Maxx to get started while the Maxx is mounted in the location as the original ecu in the passenger footwell area...Would love to make at least 1 connection today...Are there anymore connections to be made while in the cabin area?
 
Im running the stock green turbo 804 injectors which are low z impedance and the Maxx injector info says to tie all the injectors together and put on 1 output so long as theyre 10amps or lower...I dont know the amp value of the combined injectors..
 
OttoB said:
1. Bosch ECT sensor, bolt on
2. 1/8 NPT IAT sensor, a bit expensive but bolt on to the intake manifold. Just remove a plug. Can be founded else where, till exempel JEGs with connector
3. Bosch IAT. Needs drilling (and removing) to the manifold. But cheaper.

Bosch 2x2 is good, but extra work with no benefits compared to that VW coil.

To simplify wiring, use stock Fuel pump relay and LH pin 20

For main relay control LH pin 35

Constant +12 LH pin 4

Do you have electric fan?
Click to expand...
You can get a gm iat sensor on Amazon for 20 bucks.
 
You really only need thee relays for the engine side harness. One that is triggered by the cars ignition wire, and another for the coils, and a third for the pump if you want to simply things. Juat follow the wiring diagram.
 
A wiring diagram is just a drawing like a map...Sure, I can see what is connected to what but any altering is not conclusively clear to me...I can repair or replace broken wires but that is the limit of my comfortable comprehension...Why would I need the relays on the engine side if the car came equipped with relays...Is this method using the existing wire harness or taking into consideration using just the Maxx flying lead harness? Got a Haynes & Chilton Diagram to look at...Cant follow it to a Tee as it doesnt take into consideration that I will be using a Map sensor and iat as well as deleting the Maf...
 
Should I not be trying to get started on the cabin side of things? Or would it be better to start on the engine side...The last thing I want to do is cut the flying lead harness too short so that is why I was thinking to start from the ecu location...Also have to take into account that I have unstable wires (no connector) on the fuel pumps and injectors relays
 
Watching a "How to Connect a standalone to factory harness" video and the guy is comparing the factory ecu pinouts to the standalone pinouts and taking notes to make the connections...He is using the factory ecu plug and making his connections on the ecu connector side with that being connected to the standalone connector...Can I follow this guide ( without the factory connector of course) to proceed? I realize my choke point will be from the Ezk connector going into the engine bay if I do...
 
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