I don't know either how knock sensors will be impacted by my potential build. I'm imagining in my head to do a 2.7l stroker high compression NA build. With a timos 13 camshaft, extremely ported head, slightly decked and double valve springs. ARP bolts bottom end with h-rods and hf oil pump. I just see myself needing a beefier ecu from the start knowing where the project will go.
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- Thread starter WillettRun?
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In total ecu, harness and necessary accessories it'd cost 2500 dollars.
GTJordan
Been here for too long
- Joined
- Jul 6, 2002
- Location
- Edmonton AB
I don't think that is bad honestly. All new connectors and pins, no crimpers to buy, and you don't have to scour websites trying to find all the different connectors/pins. Time saver all around
Is this website new to people on this forum?
Afaik it's a popular site in sweden for volvo harnesses. They even have specific harnesses for bmw, audi, t5s etc.
If that's too pricy, buy the tools, contacts, connectors, wiring, heat shrink and go to town. Learn a valuable skillset along the way.
If that's out of your skillset, time to pony up because nice harnesses are expensive. The last volvo 4cyl race car engine harness I did was ~$2k in 2016. I did redo that harness a few years later and it was ~$1k as I was able to reuse a bunch of the connectors and the bulkhead.
Exactly.
I do not fear having to do my own electrical stuff. Just knowing myself it'd take forever. I do it slow and steady as I've almost burnt down a car in the past (accidental hotwire). Also I wouldn't be satisified just crimping stuff, I'd have to solder it otherwise I wouldn't sleep sound at night.
andyb5
Active member
- Joined
- Nov 7, 2010
- Location
- Albany, NY
For automotive wiring, soldering is less durable than proper crimp connections. The vibration from the drivetrain / road will cause solder joints to fail, whereas the mechanical bond in a crimped connection will hold securely.
From experience I have to disagree with you. Cannot tell you how many times random wires have vibrated out of their typical style of crimp connections. But I will agree that 20-30 year old crimp connections that are slightly rusty and dusty will never vibrate off.
Everything you said but still Pricey....
GTJordan
Been here for too long
- Joined
- Jul 6, 2002
- Location
- Edmonton AB
I will tell you that from Volvo's perspective soldiering is not an approved/correct method of repair. Soldier cracks.
GTJordan
Been here for too long
- Joined
- Jul 6, 2002
- Location
- Edmonton AB
Nah. I'm probably 20hrs into my harness already. This would have been a better use of time and money. Specially for someone who has never done such a job before (I have)
For me it'd take a considerable amount of time. I need to factor in that I'd be doing this in -20 or -30c outside in snow. With harness I could borrow a friend's garage for a couple of hours and it'd be done.
Using flying-lead connectors is for sure faster, but you've just added at least twice the crimp failure points... much worse if you soldered. You just described a $300 harness, and if that's the quality you want... great.
- Joined
- Jan 24, 2009
- Location
- KC, MO
send it, let's do it
bobxyz
Board Member
- Joined
- Aug 29, 2014
- Location
- Boulder CO
I was trying out the MTune software v1.150.8916.15819 to see if I could re-purpose unused injector/ignitions outputs. Can unused INJ/IGN pins on a MaxxECU Mini be used for other functions (with the limits that the INJ pins are 12v open collector drivers, and IGN pins are 5v logic-level drivers)? Running wasted spark and semi-sequential injection (2 injectors per pin) would free up 4 pins.
When I change the pin function, it looks like the "Test" box for the pin is drawn in the wrong screen group - see attached picture:
Thx, Bob
When I change the pin function, it looks like the "Test" box for the pin is drawn in the wrong screen group - see attached picture:
Thx, Bob
Lazercar
Member
- Joined
- Jan 18, 2023
- Location
- Raleigh, NC
Hey. So, after lots of research, I think Maxxecu has caught my attention the most for an aftermarket ECU system for my 84 242 turbo. I am still determining if Maxxecu mini or if Maxxecu street will be a better option for me. The main reason I would choose the street version over the mini version is that it includes the WBo2 controller. I feel this will simplify how the system operates instead of running an external controller via CANbus. But, if anybody has any recommendations for a WBO2 controller that can run off CANbus, you are more than welcome to send them here.
The main issue that concerns me with the two maxxecus I listed is the number of outputs and inputs. I want to run Outputs: a PWM fan, PS pump, IAC, Fuel pump, boost control solenoid. Inputs: AC signal input, vehicle speed sensor (for PS pump), air temp, coolant temp, throttle position. I believe that leaves me with 0 extra inputs, and -1 outputs, meaning I am left with either sacrificing the fuel pump pwm, or paying extra for the PWM expansion module (tempting). Let me know what yall would do. Somewhat broke college student here, so saving money where I can is nice, but that does not mean I am going to cut corners on the equipment I purchase.
I also have a couple questions regarding ignition. I want to either use sequential ignition or wasted spark. Am I able to use the lh 2.2 distributor as a cam position sensor in pair with the flywheel crank trigger from lh2.4 to create an accurate enough signal for sequential or wasted spark ignition? If the Lh 2.2 distributor can be used, I am assuming you can connect it similarly as a megasquirt system. I have done research on the DSM Cas system, but I mainly just want to save money where I can, and if the DSM Cas isnt needed, I wont get it.
I realize this may not be a Maxxecu specific question, but while I am here I have a couple questions about CANbus. I attempted to do some research on it, but most of the information just sort of blew me away. I understand its a protocol system that connects a bunch of modules together that send out specific signals to communicate with each other on OEM systems. Does this mean that you can essentially hook up as many modules in series as you want and it can control all the modules? So say, I can run a bosch o2 controller, a pwm expansion module, and a button control module all on the same CANbus circuit? Sorry if this is a stupid question, I just wanted to get some clarity on the subject.
Regardless, I will probably be looking to buy one of these units soon, just trying to accumulate and plan as much knowledge as I can before I start working on it. This will be my first custom EFI project, coming from someone who mainly works with Kjet.
The main issue that concerns me with the two maxxecus I listed is the number of outputs and inputs. I want to run Outputs: a PWM fan, PS pump, IAC, Fuel pump, boost control solenoid. Inputs: AC signal input, vehicle speed sensor (for PS pump), air temp, coolant temp, throttle position. I believe that leaves me with 0 extra inputs, and -1 outputs, meaning I am left with either sacrificing the fuel pump pwm, or paying extra for the PWM expansion module (tempting). Let me know what yall would do. Somewhat broke college student here, so saving money where I can is nice, but that does not mean I am going to cut corners on the equipment I purchase.
I also have a couple questions regarding ignition. I want to either use sequential ignition or wasted spark. Am I able to use the lh 2.2 distributor as a cam position sensor in pair with the flywheel crank trigger from lh2.4 to create an accurate enough signal for sequential or wasted spark ignition? If the Lh 2.2 distributor can be used, I am assuming you can connect it similarly as a megasquirt system. I have done research on the DSM Cas system, but I mainly just want to save money where I can, and if the DSM Cas isnt needed, I wont get it.
I realize this may not be a Maxxecu specific question, but while I am here I have a couple questions about CANbus. I attempted to do some research on it, but most of the information just sort of blew me away. I understand its a protocol system that connects a bunch of modules together that send out specific signals to communicate with each other on OEM systems. Does this mean that you can essentially hook up as many modules in series as you want and it can control all the modules? So say, I can run a bosch o2 controller, a pwm expansion module, and a button control module all on the same CANbus circuit? Sorry if this is a stupid question, I just wanted to get some clarity on the subject.
Regardless, I will probably be looking to buy one of these units soon, just trying to accumulate and plan as much knowledge as I can before I start working on it. This will be my first custom EFI project, coming from someone who mainly works with Kjet.
bobxyz
Board Member
- Joined
- Aug 29, 2014
- Location
- Boulder CO
I'll take a crack at this, but I'm sure that @WillettRun? will need to correct my comments/guesses.
I think you're close to being able to use a Mini, but you'd be max'ing out the I/O pins, and not running full sequential. I'd play around with MTune on your desktop and see if you can get everything to fit in a Mini. I think you can repurpose an unused injector pin to drive the boost valve (see my previous post&question).
While not listed in the features, you can use a standard WBO2 with one of the Analog inputs. You don't need a CANbus WBO2.
PWM fan will need an external driver box or solid state relay.
PS pump runs over CAN (no extra pins needed)
For the fuel pump, you just need a simple on/off relay control, not a high-power PWM. The redblocks have a manual fuel pressure regulator and a return fuel line.
You probably want a tach? +1 output pin
Yes, you can use a LH2.2 distributor (with 3 of the 4 flags cut off) for a Cam position sensor. This will give you full sequential fuel+spark. Using just the 60-2 flywheel will give you wasted spark and semi-sequential fueling (2 pins @ 2 injectors/pin). +1 input pin for Cam sensor.
Modern cars use a "module" for most everything and connect them all over CANbus (or LINbus) for better reliability and reduced wiring. You just need to run 2 wires from a module to the next closest module for CANbus. Here are the modules in a 2007 Volvo S80 and one of the 2 CANbuses:
I think you're close to being able to use a Mini, but you'd be max'ing out the I/O pins, and not running full sequential. I'd play around with MTune on your desktop and see if you can get everything to fit in a Mini. I think you can repurpose an unused injector pin to drive the boost valve (see my previous post&question).
While not listed in the features, you can use a standard WBO2 with one of the Analog inputs. You don't need a CANbus WBO2.
PWM fan will need an external driver box or solid state relay.
PS pump runs over CAN (no extra pins needed)
For the fuel pump, you just need a simple on/off relay control, not a high-power PWM. The redblocks have a manual fuel pressure regulator and a return fuel line.
You probably want a tach? +1 output pin
Yes, you can use a LH2.2 distributor (with 3 of the 4 flags cut off) for a Cam position sensor. This will give you full sequential fuel+spark. Using just the 60-2 flywheel will give you wasted spark and semi-sequential fueling (2 pins @ 2 injectors/pin). +1 input pin for Cam sensor.
Modern cars use a "module" for most everything and connect them all over CANbus (or LINbus) for better reliability and reduced wiring. You just need to run 2 wires from a module to the next closest module for CANbus. Here are the modules in a 2007 Volvo S80 and one of the 2 CANbuses:
Lazercar
Member
- Joined
- Jan 18, 2023
- Location
- Raleigh, NC
Thanks for the quick reply.I'll take a crack at this, but I'm sure that @WillettRun? will need to correct my comments/guesses.
I think you're close to being able to use a Mini, but you'd be max'ing out the I/O pins, and not running full sequential. I'd play around with MTune on your desktop and see if you can get everything to fit in a Mini. I think you can repurpose an unused injector pin to drive the boost valve (see my previous post&question).
While not listed in the features, you can use a standard WBO2 with one of the Analog inputs. You don't need a CANbus WBO2.
PWM fan will need an external driver box or solid state relay.
PS pump runs over CAN (no extra pins needed)
For the fuel pump, you just need a simple on/off relay control, not a high-power PWM. The redblocks have a manual fuel pressure regulator and a return fuel line.
You probably want a tach? +1 output pin
Yes, you can use a LH2.2 distributor (with 3 of the 4 flags cut off) for a Cam position sensor. This will give you full sequential fuel+spark. Using just the 60-2 flywheel will give you wasted spark and semi-sequential fueling (2 pins @ 2 injectors/pin). +1 input pin for Cam sensor.
Modern cars use a "module" for most everything and connect them all over CANbus (or LINbus) for better reliability and reduced wiring. You just need to run 2 wires from a module to the next closest module for CANbus. Here are the modules in a 2007 Volvo S80 and one of the 2 CANbuses:
Looking over the information you supplied, it seems that I gain an output by moving the PS pump over to CANbus, but I lose an output needing to run a tach. So that breaks even.
I am interested in seeing the answer to your post before mine. It would be nice to repurpose unused injector/ignition outputs. If that's the case, going wasted spark would be a better choice or even upgrading to the sport to get a couple extra outputs while still using sequential ignition/injection. I know the Ms3pro mini can do this.
I am surprised a brushless PWM radiator fan needs an external controller to run. Maybe I misunderstand how a PWM controlled fan works. I thought it was just a pulsed signal from the ECU while the fan itself still had fused power directly from the battery.
Fuel pump, you make a fair point. No need for a PWM controlled fuel pump when you have a FPR and return line. That was an oversight from me.
The main reason I want the O2 controller to run over CANbus is that it leaves me with an extra input. I suppose if it saves money though, I can forgo that extra input. On top of that, I still have to get a controller no matter what, and I am guessing most controllers have CAN support, unless there's cheaper controllers that don't support CAN.
Thanks for the info on the Lh2.2 distributor. I will do more in depth research on converting it to a cam sensor.
You mention in the first paragraph that I won't be able to run sequential ignition with the mini. Why is this? It seems I still have enough inputs and outputs to handle sequential ignition. The Maxxecu mini can accommodate both a digital input for a HAL sensor (Lh 2.2 cam sensor) and a trigger input (60-2 flywheel input). This still leaves me with my 2 analog inputs, one of which will be used by an o2 sensor (or speed sensor if I get a CANbus O2 controller), and the other probably by an AC trigger switch. I will run the Mtune software and see if I can get everything to fit that I want. Thats a good idea.
Thanks for your explanation on CANbus. It is just like I thought, very cool technology.