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MaxxECU Questions and Support/Purchase: Post them here

About boost pressure error. What does this number mean/tell? It seems not to be Map target vs. Map difference, so what it is?
Thanks again.
 

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Can anyone help me with instaling my maxx ecu mini on my volvo 940 b230 fk 96 i have some mods like t3t4 turbo and a set of bosh injectors (gröna R spridare) thats the name in swedish and I need to know what sensors and stuff i need fore the instalation of the ecu
 
Has anyone documented the relay stuff for a Volvo 940 getting the RPM gauge to work with pullup? and.. does the VSS signal from the rearaxle go directly into VSS input?
 
MadDog_945 said:
Has anyone documented the relay stuff for a Volvo 940 getting the RPM gauge to work with pullup? and.. does the VSS signal from the rearaxle go directly into VSS input?
Click to expand...
I'll take a look tomorrow. When you say RPM gauge, you mean Tach or Tachometer for us US folks? The 240 tachometers may work with a pullup, or may need a cube relay with the flapper removed, to convert the ECU tach signal to one that works with the gauge. I'll see if I can find what the 940 tachs need for a signal.

The VSS signal needs to be the one off the speedometer, not the raw signal from the rear axle. You'll need to find the VSS wire that went from the 940 speedo to the LH2.4 ECU.
 
bobxyz said:
I'll take a look tomorrow. When you say RPM gauge, you mean Tach or Tachometer for us US folks? The 240 tachometers may work with a pullup, or may need a cube relay with the flapper removed, to convert the ECU tach signal to one that works with the gauge. I'll see if I can find what the 940 tachs need for a signal.

The VSS signal needs to be the one off the speedometer, not the raw signal from the rear axle. You'll need to find the VSS wire that went from the 940 speedo to the LH2.4 ECU.
Click to expand...

Oooo I thought he was wondering how he can feed that VSS directly to the ECU.
 
As far as I can tell, all the MaxxECUs need a digital (or hall) signal for the VSS and wheel speed sensors. They do offer a VR to Hall (digital) conversion board, which will be needed if you eliminate the original Volvo speedometer (the original speedo does the VR to hall conversion). When connecting to the original speedo-to-LH2.4 VSS signal, you'll need to enable the pullup on the MaxxECU input, or use an external pullup resistor, 1K ohms to +5Vref.
maxxecu.com

VR to hall sensor converter (VR2DIN) board 2-channel DIY - MaxxECU

Motorsportprodukter - VR to hall sensor converter (VR2DIN) board 2-channel DIY - MaxxECU
maxxecu.com maxxecu.com

For the tach signal, I couldn't find good requirements for the 740/940 tach gauges. I'd try using a +12v tach output from the MaxxECU and see if it works. Only one of the MaxECU Mini outputs has a +12v option - GPO 8; I don't know if other models have more +12v outputs. Alternately, you can use any "switch to ground" output pin and add an external 10K ohm pullup resistor to +12v.

If a +12v tach signal isn't sufficient for the 740/940 dashboard tach, you'll need to add a gutted cube relay to boost the signal. See:

Idea for tach circuit

We almost all need to make a circuit to get the stock tach to work. Here's what I did with mine, completely tossed inside a standard automotive relay. Compact!
turbobricks.com turbobricks.com
Unfortunately, Roger Dee's picture is gone. I'll rummage around and see if I have a copy. If so, I'll add it here later. There are also aftermarket adapter boxes if you don't want to build your own. Try searching for something like "high voltage tach adapter".
 
bobxyz said:
As far as I can tell, all the MaxxECUs need a digital (or hall) signal for the VSS and wheel speed sensors. They do offer a VR to Hall (digital) conversion board, which will be needed if you eliminate the original Volvo speedometer (the original speedo does the VR to hall conversion). When connecting to the original speedo-to-LH2.4 VSS signal, you'll need to enable the pullup on the MaxxECU input, or use an external pullup resistor, 1K ohms to +5Vref.
maxxecu.com

VR to hall sensor converter (VR2DIN) board 2-channel DIY - MaxxECU

Motorsportprodukter - VR to hall sensor converter (VR2DIN) board 2-channel DIY - MaxxECU
maxxecu.com maxxecu.com
Click to expand...

I was digging around, and then talked to Brett about these. Below the Race the speed sensors are Hall. But on the Race it has 4 VR/Hall sensor inputs that can use the factory VR speed sensor.
 
MadDog_945 said:
Has anyone documented the relay stuff for a Volvo 940 getting the RPM gauge to work with pullup? and.. does the VSS signal from the rearaxle go directly into VSS input?
Click to expand...
See youre inbox ! i have taken a 4 pin relay. i cut away the plate between terminal 30 and 87 . i took the orginal wires for the tacho.
for the vss , i wired in the front abs sensor.
 
Installed Mini on B230K engine.
The issue - starts rpm go to hit over 3000 and shuts down.
- Issue resolved - had a massive airleak on the intake as the brake booster was not connected
 
Last edited:
I’m having trouble with the boost control. It works fine in open loop and it has been for a while now. But because of big temp changes outside, I want to set up closed loop with a target pressure.
But whatever I do, it doesn’t go above wastegate pressure in closed loop mode.

Does anyone know a fix for this?
Cheers
 
Westmees said:
I’m having trouble with the boost control. It works fine in open loop and it has been for a while now. But because of big temp changes outside, I want to set up closed loop with a target pressure.
But whatever I do, it doesn’t go above wastegate pressure in closed loop mode.

Does anyone know a fix for this?
Cheers
Click to expand...
if duty cycle goes 100% and no change in pressure, then you have wastegate hoses wrong, or its an inverted output

DM me and we will tune this
 
GTJordan said:
I'm interested to know about the VSS wiring also.
Click to expand...
OEM cluster takes the diff signal and conditions to a squarewave. you can take that squarewave signal and pipe to any DIN.

Tablet GPS speed is now supported*, but i still like a real VSS signal.

you could also be cool and put an MK60E5 ABS
 
Hello,
I have a b21ft / Kjet car.

It has EFI fuel pumps done by previous owner.
I dont have any trigger wheel or injectors etc bought yet.

Considering MaxxEcu Sport or Race.
My goal will be ~350 HP in time, but that will have to be after new trans, turbo, ic, etc.

But considering longterm goal I should then buy:
stage 0:
* Good FMIC
* Injectors with enough headroom for ~350hp
* Sparkplugs with r for EFI
* Some sort of triggering system (Yoshifab CAS, or lh2.2?)
* Some sort of coil(s), WS or not... I guess for my goals a WS coil is plenty good enough?
* IAT sensor
* CLT sensor
* TPS sensor from 850/960 w/ adapter for lh2.4 throttlebody OR> ethrottle if I do sport/race (then I wont need idle valve)
* Electronic boost control
* Knock sensor? should I add one? maybe so, but saw some videos about tuning a knocksensor is hard?

I guess Sport would be more than enough for my goals, but when I look at sport package with lambda, the price hike to race isnt "crazy".

So what are you guys suggestions about triggering system, I kindof dont want to use money in wrong places.
Additional notes
I am working on swan neck intake with lh2.4 throttle body, I have also bought an F intake which gives me a fuel rail I can use for the injectors fitted in the head. Do know it has to be modified a bit to mount towards head in the kjet tapped holes for injector holders.
 
DaButcher said:
Hello,
I have a b21ft / Kjet car.

It has EFI fuel pumps done by previous owner.
I dont have any trigger wheel or injectors etc bought yet.

Considering MaxxEcu Sport or Race.
My goal will be ~350 HP in time, but that will have to be after new trans, turbo, ic, etc.

But considering longterm goal I should then buy:
stage 0:
* Good FMIC
* Injectors with enough headroom for ~350hp
* Sparkplugs with r for EFI
* Some sort of triggering system (Yoshifab CAS, or lh2.2?)
* Some sort of coil(s), WS or not... I guess for my goals a WS coil is plenty good enough?
* IAT sensor
* CLT sensor
* TPS sensor from 850/960 w/ adapter for lh2.4 throttlebody OR> ethrottle if I do sport/race (then I wont need idle valve)
* Electronic boost control
* Knock sensor? should I add one? maybe so, but saw some videos about tuning a knocksensor is hard?

I guess Sport would be more than enough for my goals, but when I look at sport package with lambda, the price hike to race isnt "crazy".

So what are you guys suggestions about triggering system, I kindof dont want to use money in wrong places.
Additional notes
I am working on swan neck intake with lh2.4 throttle body, I have also bought an F intake which gives me a fuel rail I can use for the injectors fitted in the head. Do know it has to be modified a bit to mount towards head in the kjet tapped holes for injector holders.
Click to expand...
Race Unit W LSU 4.9 kit
Modern bosch injectors with available deadtime data (please)
Yoshifab Cas W/High res disc
OEM 60-2 is great also, just weld a single tooth 90 BTDC on the back of the cam and weld a bracket for a hall effect cam sensor on valve cover.
Fuel pressure sensor/oil pressure sensor (both get wired to maxxecu. save your engine, and fuel pressure is part of the model)
dont forget the flex fuel sensor.
Dont really care what coils they are, just use something that are smart, and COP
IAT (bosch, but gm is also OK)
E-throttle with Bosch throttle body and volvo e-pedal
MAC valve wired to GPO
Use Bosch 2 wire knock sensor as a feedback tool and learn to set some thresholds for particular scenarios.
pull VSS From back of cluster if you have electronic style. if not, going to need some kind of VSS (helps with idle control situations and such)
While you're in there, 8hp or DCT (why not lol)
 
Hello, I have a few questions regarding the Maxxecu Sport Premium on my 4age 20v silvertop engine. I've been having trouble getting the maxxecu to read my engine's cam signal. The engine would crank and try to start, but would backfire do to not knowing when to spark. I installed a crank trigger sensor (This one to be specific) because I thought the ECU may have wanted cam and crank signal, but still having the same issue. Am also running a MRP coil on plug kit and have trouble getting reliable spark sometimes. Is this a software issue? Maybe wiring? My tuner is also lost on this issue, but he doesn't have much experience with maxxecu.

Just got back from my tuner, and he said grinding off all but one of the teeth on the distributor pickup may fix the issue. Would that work?
 
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