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MaxxECU Questions and Support/Purchase: Post them here

SlavikaT5 said:
Hey guys,

to start I'm totally new to the self tuning and especially stand alone ECU setups. I'm not new to custom setups like intercoolers, piping, intakes rebuilding turbos etc. So I am not afraid to learn and take on new advanced projects.

My issue is I can't leave my car alone I am constantly upgrading and changing everything from factory to my own setup 😅 I am done with off the shelf tuning as finding tuners is hard and I want to be the one to do everything myself. I want to go Maxxecu so I can learn the tuning world, I have a friend who has years of experience tuning turbo cars with megasquirt holley etc. We both would be new to the Maxxecu world. I am not afraid of wiring or digging into cutting and refitting connectors etc. My friend also has huge experience doing wiring and harnesses which is a big + for me.

My main question leans towards will the Maxxecu Street be enough for my Volvo 850 T5? I have a pretty decent list of what I have done in terms of upgrades. Is there anyone who has Maxxecu as a piggyback (I believe that's the term) with their stock ECU to run some of the basic functions or is it better to just completely run the Volvo system with just Maxxecu? I would prefer a complete new setup and just run the standalone and just get rid of the M4.4 ECU all together but not sure what's easiest and best. All the info will be excellent I am prepared to ask a million questions. Thanks for taking the time to read.

-SlavikaT5
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Recommend sport minimum, race preferred
 
240ReasonsY said:
Good Day , A few things to clear the air before i start and sound completely stupid
I just love the 240 Brick style so i bought a 1989 240 GL , possible the only good one left in my country , This is my first time taking on a build.

I found possible again , the only 940 B234F (16v) in my country , i guess you can see where im going with this.

The only problem is that my 240 has a B200 K-jetronic system,
Im trying to figure out
if i swap the heads can i run the new set up fully off of a maxxecu or megasquirt or what.
what is the best ecu for my application?
Do i have to use the ecu in the car already ?
do i have to piggy back?
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hi,

lots of questions here.

It would essentially be like the route of adding a standalone to a Kjet car. you do not need to piggyback anything. use the new engine and connect everything from that engine to maxxecu, dont use any of the OEM wiring that you have to.
 
MikeSr. said:
Thanks!
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To utilize cam trigger with sequential injection and ignition instrumentation of the engine is quite complex. You need separate lambda sensors, one for each cylinder and for ignition cylinder pressure measurement and some kind of analysis system for that.

I'm am slowly doing this, unfortunately AEM dropped their 4ch lambda, that would have simplified Installation. We are looking for Canbus lambdas next. Also we are measuring exhaust temperature to see the correlation between lambda and temperature.

For cylinder pressure there is AVL sparkplug with integrated sensor. (Ca. 4000 Eur) and amplifier (3000 EUR)

Cylinder pressure is analysed with Devesoft measurement system (15000 EUR)


Luckily my work supports my hobby. And vice versa. I can open a separate thread of whole system if there interest.
 
After way too long and working 45 minutes at a time I finally cranked Ol Rasputin off today! Working pretty good off of the turbo basemap. My only issue so far is I think I've wired my TPS incorrectly because no matter what position my throttle is at it always reads 0V(well 0.420 V) I'm gonna double check tonight when I have the chance to strip open some wires. I used an 840 TPS sensor and used the adapter for my 245 from Yoshi fab. Fingers crossed I can drive it to work come Monday Morning!
 
Turns out I just hadn't plugged the TPS all the way in. Does anyone have any thoughts on this issue? I built my file off the b230ft 8V basemap, though I don't have a turbo. I set up the idle air based on what I live seen on this thread from Otto. If my MAP is unplugged my 240 will idle at a very low RPM and die whenever I press the accelerator, if I plug the MAP up it dies right after it cranks.
 
It lives! After digging around in the limits and safetied I figured out I was running way too lean. Added some fuel across the whole table and it's running pretty smooth now.
 
Greetings! Long time lurker, first time poster...
I have an 82 245 with a B21F MPG, manual transmission, and Kjet that I'm struggling to keep running for more than a day or two.
I believe it is mostly wiring issues, but the whole needle in a haystack and random run or not run is driving me bonkers.
I want to convert to later model EFI to hopefully simplify things and improve reliability, while still being able to pass smog.
I have a couple questions about the MAXXECU in regards to being a better option than the standard LH2.2/EZK 117 swap.
I'm looking specifically at the MAXXECU Street for the included wideband O2 setup and the ability to eliminate the MAF sensor.

Can the system be run just from the standard Bosch distributor, without a crank sensor, etc.?

The tuning aspect has me a little intimidated. How far off is the B230 Turbo tune, as in how quickly do I need to get to a dyno tuner?

Any information or opinions will be greatly appreciated. Cheers!
 
SKG12 said:
Greetings! Long time lurker, first time poster...
I have an 82 245 with a B21F MPG, manual transmission, and Kjet that I'm struggling to keep running for more than a day or two.
I believe it is mostly wiring issues, but the whole needle in a haystack and random run or not run is driving me bonkers.
I want to convert to later model EFI to hopefully simplify things and improve reliability, while still being able to pass smog.
I have a couple questions about the MAXXECU in regards to being a better option than the standard LH2.2/EZK 117 swap.
I'm looking specifically at the MAXXECU Street for the included wideband O2 setup and the ability to eliminate the MAF sensor.

Can the system be run just from the standard Bosch distributor, without a crank sensor, etc.?

The tuning aspect has me a little intimidated. How far off is the B230 Turbo tune, as in how quickly do I need to get to a dyno tuner?

Any information or opinions will be greatly appreciated. Cheers!
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You should just get the yoshifab CAS. You can run it off of the distibutor but not sequential. Spend the money for the CAS. Also Brett will probably chime in but he does remote tuning. He did my car. And several others that I know. A few years back I was in the same position as you with a b21ft and falling wiring. Go for it. If you need your harness assembly done. I also do that.
 
hello, I have a 940 1998 B230FK and a MaxxEcu Street.

Question: How to connect the car tachometer. I don't know how to connect the GPO8. While we're at it, how far back does the VSS go into the cabin?

thank you very much in advance
 
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I was wondering, I have heard lots about using a 3" maf in conjunction with LH 2.2/2.4, I was wondering if it is a necessary upgrade when using Maxx? I have recently got a maxx street and I am just now sorting out all the details in completing this step of my project. for context I am staring with a carbed b21a, a stock LH2.4 harness 60lb injectors and b230f+t k24 swap. I am looking to be pushing somewhere in the realm of 20psi .
I have heard that with LH the 2.5" maf hits a boost cut at some point and that a remedy to this is to go to a 3" maf

as I am using maxx would this be a problem?

I have a 4 pin 3" maf, would it be more advisable to just adapt this?

lotta questions there, thanks for your answers
 
You can absolutely run a newer generation frequency maf (up to 10,000hz) and use it in the fuel model/VE table, in conjunction with a MAP sensor (or on it's own). You can even use an analog one too, if you so desire. but, this ECU is modern, and works really well with just a MAP sensor and an IAT.
 
WillettRun? said:
You can absolutely run a newer generation frequency maf (up to 10,000hz) and use it in the fuel model/VE table, in conjunction with a MAP sensor (or on it's own). You can even use an analog one too, if you so desire. but, this ECU is modern, and works really well with just a MAP sensor and an IAT.
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what IAT is reccomended for this sorta thing? can I source one out of a parts car?
additionally is it fully necessary? after a list of " if your doing this might as well also do this" items, the build is getting more pricey than expected
 
also, in terms of removing pins from the molex connector, are there any better alternatives to spending 20$ plus shipping and waiting a month for the maxx brand pin removing tool?
 
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