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Meet Roach and Yennefer!

Also a small tidbit, if I unplug the MAF in the engine bay, and then turn the throttle pulley at the intake manifold, it will rev no problem.
If I leave the MAF unplugged and sit in the drivers seat and push the gas pedal, it will do nothing but bog down and die!
 
Ok time for some of the pics of the recent adventures.
As of this morning the spark plug change didn't really change much. Maybe a little less responsive from what I felt.
I was surprised to find the gap on these plugs was so different!



Visible gap difference but none of the spark plugs looked gunked, wet or burned.
I did notice something once I was done installing the spark plugs.
As I took of after installing the plugs while the car was still "cold" I got to take off with some boost!
Now I'm only set at 5psi but I felt a great response.
After the takeoff though, once the car was at operating temp, it no longer would boost!
All the sputtering and backfiring issues started right back up.
I've read on some of the different threads that this could possibly be an ENGINE TEMP SENSOR issue.
Maybe the sensor is out, making the car think the engine is cold, dumping fuel?
I'll be changing taking the exisiting sensor off of my 945SE and trying it out this after.

...Why am I taking all these parts off the 945 you might ask?


Because my fuel relay went out last week :(
Just a good reason for me to hit Roach with a good stage 0, amiright?

Here's some pics from the bad gas situation, a look into Yen's engine bay, and some pics after I gave Yen a bath or two or three.. still knocking scum off her!










She's starting to look really pretty :)
Id love some nice rims, a tint job, and some lower springs from IPD
Basics first, lets get her running 100% so I can enjoy it
 
hate to break it to you there are no 940se's in this thread. It was a one year only chassis in America that was essentially a 960 with a 4 cylinder. The ones you seem to have are just higher spec 940's
 
^^ Is that a pic of an OZ market 940SE? Here in Upside-Down Land, we had 940SE in 91, 92, and 93.... but they were up-spec 940 turbos with climate control, cruise control, and leather, not the IRS bodied 960 with a B230FT like in the US.

My 945 has a factory SE badge, and it has '945' in the VIN.
 
I'll check if I have a pic of the VIN when I get a chance. Otherwise itll have to be later today before I can get to it. The wagon with the 940SE tag has climate and cruise control, EGR Turbo, sunroof, no IRS, and no leather. I'm in the SE USA
 
I'm still confused as to what we're getting at here. Seems like unnecessary gatekeeping? Is bgpzfm142's a 940SE or is that only reserved for specific models that didn't actually get the SE tag?

It may walk and talk like a duck but FU THATS A BURMESE PYTHON
 
Here's the VIN, do with it what you will.
Besides calling a car what it's tagged or not, I do have some updates.

Over the weekend I decided to check out the ECU/EZK to see if it was a source of the trouble I'm dealing with.
Figured I'd check the rail and injectors too, as I could get to them easily.
Doing all this while my ECT is coming in the mail. I've read you need to remove the intake manifold to even get to the ECT.
I found that to be true. The dash gauge sensor is reachable, as well as the knock sensor, but the ECT for the injectors is behind those guys, in a very tight spot for a hand let alone +wrench.

It was all way worse than I expected. The injectors were all gunked up top and bottom, seals chewed up, and even the seats at the intake manifold were FULL of crud.




One silver (or gold lol) lining I did have happen is I found a gold ECU in the 945! Roach was just full of goodies!


But after swapping the ECU/EZK and injectors the problem still persists :(
So all that being said, waiting on the ECT sensor to hopefully fix my issue!

One weird thing is while Yen the black 940T is non egr, when putting in the gold ecu and 954 ezk from the 945T with EGR, I've never gotten a check engine light! I was expecting something to happen, but so far so good
 
940SE in NA was esentially a 4cyl mk1 960. Wagon was solid axle, sedan was IRS.

In Europe, we had mk1 960 6cyl diesels, rare B230FT's and a number of T16 engined cars, the B204FT. I've got 4-5 of those "other" 960's. But they were still 960. 940 SE over here was mostly B200FT with higher trim level, and they were 1995-1997 MY.


OP, your ECT is bad, I'm sure. But you could have tested resistance with a multimeter to be certain. Anyway, I've never had to remove intake to replace it - deep 19mm socket, u-joint and couple of extensions do in. If you have them in 3/8 drive, even better. Keep in mind that most cars here have LPG, which means one hell of a clutter in intake area.

Also, give injectors an ultrasonic bath while quickly cycling them. There are tools for that, or they can be made in a pinch. Or take them to a shop, it could be a considerable part of your problem.
 
940SE in NA was esentially a 4cyl mk1 960. Wagon was solid axle, sedan was IRS.

In Europe, we had mk1 960 6cyl diesels, rare B230FT's and a number of T16 engined cars, the B204FT. I've got 4-5 of those "other" 960's. But they were still 960. 940 SE over here was mostly B200FT with higher trim level, and they were 1995-1997 MY.


OP, your ECT is bad, I'm sure. But you could have tested resistance with a multimeter to be certain. Anyway, I've never had to remove intake to replace it - deep 19mm socket, u-joint and couple of extensions do in. If you have them in 3/8 drive, even better. Keep in mind that most cars here have LPG, which means one hell of a clutter in intake area.

Also, give injectors an ultrasonic bath while quickly cycling them. There are tools for that, or they can be made in a pinch. Or take them to a shop, it could be a considerable part of your problem.
Hello from across the pond! So cool to hear from someone in the freakin' BALKANS
Thank you for the informed input, this is really good info and I will always be willing to learn more about these sweet cars!
I read and read all over this page and others and of course the reoccuring theme is that I NEED TO GET A VOLTMETER
I've never really used one but I think this car is going to want me to learn.
I'm looking around for a shop to do an injector service but I don't mind looking into getting new ones either..
The 945 was my daily and I've been running seafoam(cleaner) through them for a while now. They seem to be working great, minus the issues I'm experiencing.

I also really appreciate the load out info for what I need to get the ECT out. There's a junkyard nearby and they have one lone 940 out there I think Ill go see if I can scavenge the ECT and it looks to have Virgo wheels too which I find to be a close 2nd place to the Hydras.. I'll post when I get what I can!
 
Welp the 940 at the junkyard is a shell. There are two Virgo wheels still on it but theyre STUCK, I bet that's the only reason they are there.
It's an NA model, so I doubt I'll pull much off it. Skipped grabbing the ECT, felt like it wouldn'd have lasted long.
I did grab the hood hinges, my wagon's are bent to hell.
Didn't have the heart to grab the valve cover knowing it would wreck the block, but it's a nice one so I'll grab that and maybe the light fixtures.

Got home and swapped the ECT between the 940 and the 945.. Took off.. NO CHANGE :(
Big thanks to nordmaschine, he was 100% right just needed the right tools and it was easy to snake in there

I know swapping parts doesnt give me a 100% answer but I'm still upset.
Think I'll be picking up a voltmeter today and trying some things out. I think I've got me an electrical issue :(
Ordered a new ECT from IPD but its on backorder so guess I'll wait.
2 fuel pump relays coming too, the 945's is dead and the 940's has the year '93 stamped on it
Maybe swap the IAC this afternoon, but then I'm running out of options.

One worry I have is I've read turbos are touchy and my rebuild might not have lasted very long?
I've put almost 200 on the Yen driving around the farm, going to get gas nearby.
The turbo whistles and the MBC is set to 5 so I didn't think it would be under too much stress but..
Is there a definitive way to know if a turbo is bad? I can swap the turbos this coming weekend, just hate that I might have messed it up.
 
Okay guys, I did it. I bit the multimeter bullet. I'm staring at an old ECT, old bullet pin contacts everywhere (I'm looking at you, RSR) and a fresh battery. I've got the Chilton manual. Would love to hear some tips and tricks. Something to check while I'm here?
 
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ECT's good, based on ohms and ambient temp. The wires from the sensor to the harness seem to change color? I see red/black white/grey at the sensor but Im not seeing a white/grey at the harness
 
Well either way ill be going through the harness tests. Looked at the harness coming into the firewall at the drivers side and they're corroded, the rubber/plastic is falling out of the clips. Took it apart and looked inside and I'm not sure the wires are connecting. The female bullet connectors are recessed wayyyy into the bracket. It's dark and cold out so I'll be cleaning and refitting those connections in the morning. Pushing the harness around after refitting the clip and I heard the fuel system click and whir so I hope I've found my problem. I'll know more after working with my handy multimeter!
 
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