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motor mounts issue

irfandmoby_

Active member
Joined
Mar 31, 2025
Location
beneath a rusty brick
today was motor mount replacement day, which is a job i’d never done before, i put the car on ramps for more clearance in my driveway, and jacked up the engine from the bottom.

i got the drivers side mount brackets off and took the old rubber mount off, i then put the new one on and tried to put it back.
I now can’t seem to get it lined up no matter how hard i try, i can’t get either bracket to line up right.

i called it for the night, but i’m not sure what i’m doing wrong and i’m getting really discouraged and don’t have any clue where to go from here.

am i doing something wrong? am i missing something? should i just try to have a shop do it?
 
Bolt them to the engine and then lower them into the crossmember. A worn out or blown transmission mount will allow everything to slide backwards and make things difficult to line up. Might need to put a crowbar between the cylinder head and firewall to pull everything forward.
 
Bolt them to the block, slowly drop the engine till things are close to lining up, do the rest with a pry bar, replace your trans mount next weekend
 
You need to jack the engine up high enough so you can easily attach the upper bracket to the block. Then as mentioned you slowly lower the bracket with the studs down through the holes in the crossmember. You usually have to push on the mount a bit and flex the rubber to get the studs through the crossmember.
 
do i replace the mounts one at a time or both at the same time
One at a time. It is absolutely normal to encounter what you are dealing with. The mounts do not line up with the holes when new. It takes quite a bit of twisting/forcing them into place to get the studs though the crossmember.
 
i already have the drivers side off, so i’ll have to do the drivers side first, how bad is this for me
It makes no difference which mount you change first. Leave the bolts that attach the block bracket loose until you get the studs of the lower bracket though the holes in the cross member. On the passenger side, do not take the block bracket off. Just remove the nut on the top side of the block bracket and remove the mount with the cross member bracket attached. The lower bolt of the upper bracket is blocked by the rubber mount anyway. It is much easier to just leave the block bracket in place.
 
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I always had an easier time doing both mounts while using an engine support bar to lift the engine straight up. Mine's home made though.


NRuLKG1l.jpeg


Unistrut and a threaded hook with a nut and couple big washers, hooked onto the factory lifting point on the thermostat. Remove the nuts from the crossmember and then slowly raise the engine until the studs clear, unbolt the mounts from the block and replace the rubber.
 
I always had an easier time doing both mounts while using an engine support bar to lift the engine straight up. Mine's home made though.


NRuLKG1l.jpeg


Unistrut and a threaded hook with a nut and couple big washers, hooked onto the factory lifting point on the thermostat. Remove the nuts from the crossmember and then slowly raise the engine until the studs clear, unbolt the mounts from the block and replace the rubber.
Both at once is definitely easier if you have a safe way to lift the engine from above. I had an overhead chain hoist in a shop I used and that made it so nothing was in my way under the car. It was a cake walk with that set up.
 
i couldn't get the drivers side on this weekend, I won't lie I got too discouraged and didn't have much equipment. I called my grandfather, and he's going to bring the more necessary tools, and then we'll replace the carrier bearing. I'll be honest, I'm quite the smaller dude, so having him help me with the knowledge and strength he has will help me more than anything. More updates this weekend, thanks for the help, I also may buy a support bar to make it easier.
 
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