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"Mr Fredrickson" A B8444S swapped 240 from the UK

Howdy all, couple of update pics
Engine and box test fit, one of many and won't be the last time
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Trying to work out how the heck the cooling/heater system worked on the xc90. Managed to find a couple of flow diagrams and thankfully the 240 is a bit simpler.
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Modifying the water connection casting to give me more room at the back of the engine. I didn't want to modify the fire wall.
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Gratuitous lathe shot cleaning up one of the flanges I cut off with the hacksaw.
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Turned this;

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Into this

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And eventually into this

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All because I need to slim down all this stopping me pushing the v8 far enough back in the engine bay to clear the front crossmember. I've bought myself at least 200mm (8")

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On to engine mounts, I apologise if I seem to be jumping around, I needed to be sure I could get the engine far enough back in the bay before I finalised the mounts. This is what I've got to work with. As the engine was originally a FWD its engine mounts are opposite and offset and nowhere near the stock mouning points.

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I decided I definately didn't want a cantilevered mount so I mocked up a bridging bream out of 3" angle. It isn't "elegant" but I'm happy with it I think. I picks up bolts along the side of the block and also bear on the upper block casting along the split line.

For the base I cut some 8mm (5/16") steel plate and transfer punched the crossmember holes onto it. Drilled and reamed to 1/2" and press fit some Ford Sierra (Merkur xr4ti) wheel studs in. These bolt up to the crossmember from below in the original stock location.

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After much fitting and fettling I knew how high the mount should sit so cut and prepped some CDS tube. Can see the BMW engine mount I'm using in the background.

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Made a a little landing pad for the mount to key into and bolt from the underside.

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Transfering the centre of the bolt hole to the mounting beam/bracket by measurement.

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Here is the drivers side mount all mocked up. I can take a huge amount of weight off that bracket once I'm happy with everything. One thing you cant see here is the dowel cup locating thingies on the back of the big bracket I turned up. Theyll get welded onto the back and provide load bearing and location.

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This is where I'm up to at the moment. This is the passenger side engine mount (left side ....I'm in the UK :) )
Not sure on this side yet could take a similar approach. not sure yet.

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One thing I hadn't considered before is that the inlet manifold is the opposite way as I thought :rofl:, meaning the throttle body is pointing directly back at the firewall. It can't stay there, there isn't room so that will get cut off and grafted onto the front.
 
Nice work. I'm curious, have you welded the oil pan without it anchored to the carrier? I would think you would have significant distortion of the mount flange with that much material removed & subsequent plate welds. Is that a concern?
 
I made a heavy rigid steel plate/frame with the bolt pattern transferred onto it. Did really good pre-heat and a semi-controlled cooling and it still warped. Just cut so much away from the middle thinnest part. When the final welding is done on the bowl am going to look at bracing it. If after all that it still leaks, I'm fabricating a steel one. The modified ali one was alays a compromise :( Or I may even go the whole hog and drysump it.



Nice work. I'm curious, have you welded the oil pan without it anchored to the carrier? I would think you would have significant distortion of the mount flange with that much material removed & subsequent plate welds. Is that a concern?
 
Havent been in the garage much recently as we've been on vacation so have been looking at wiring and electrics a little. Regarding my ECU, I bought an Emerald K6+ ECU a number of years ago, before I decided on using the B8444s V8 linky.

I have decided to sell the Emerald kit and purchase something else. The K6+ doesn't officially support quad VVT but they were "very confident" it could be implemented in software within a couple of months. That was about 12 months ago and they've stopped responding to my emails now.

I've decided to go for a Link G4X Extreme which supports quad vvt straight out of the box. Plus anything else I might need and a whole lot more too. The documentation and support from Link has been amazing and I haven't even bought anything from them yet. https://dealers.linkecu.com/G4X-XtremeX
 
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I posted on the LinkECU forum and asked a question about my DBW throttle which came with the Volvo Engine. Quite quickly one of their staff had helped me identify what type of throttle it was (CAN controlled or not) and confirmed it was not a CAN e-throttle and could easily be be used with the Link ECU.

Next thing to identify was the throttle plug. I basically sat at my computer, did a google search for "6 way drive by wire throttle connector" + variations and compared the pictures which eventually led me to the following site. https://rrrshop.co.uk/collections/all/products/toyota-throttle-connector. I was pretty sure it was the right connector. Ordered it and thankfully its correct and clips right into place.

Its also referred to a Sumitomu 6-way connector apparently.

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I've managed to work out the COP correct pin out with help from Link (again!). Theyre Volvo part number 8687939 and Denso 099700-0890.

1. +12V
2. Feedback - not needed
3. Ground
4. Signal.

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My engine came with quite a nice fuel injector loom bringing all the injector wiring back to a convenient 12 pin plug. I'm going to snip that off and replace 12 pin Deustch DT connector. I "think" the injectors are EV14 plugs, anyone confirm?

I've NEVER done any engine wiring before......you can't tell can you?

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I haven't had a reason to try it yet, but I've been told you can use google lens on any connector under your hood and the odds are pretty good it will ID that connector.
 
Cheers guys, I tried the google lens thing and couldn't get it to give me any sensible answers.

I've found conflicting info on the USCAR/EV14 connector thing. I found one place that said they were the same connector and in another it said they weren't??!?!?

EDIT
This site has some good info. USCAR is the rounded connector as esmth said. The EV designation refers to the body style .....every day is a school day.

https://injectorrepair.com/connector-types/
 
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just bought a fuel injector tester so im going to rig something up to before and after flow and spray pattern test my injectors. Might be of interest some.
 
I haven't had a reason to try it yet, but I've been told you can use google lens on any connector under your hood and the odds are pretty good it will ID that connector.

that's very cool and good to know.
 
Mocking up the passenger side engine mount in wood. As I mentioned before as the engine is originally a FWD the mounts are in totally the wrong place for a RWD setup.

This isn't exactly like it will end up, the mount will be made from a 400mm long piece of 3" angle. This was just to work out where everything will live.

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I kind of dig the wooden engine mounts. It's like a safety feature. In a bad crash they can snap like a twig so the engine goes under the car. Volvo safety! :)
 
This is a really interesting and informative thread for me, as I'm planning on doing the same swap with my 95' 960. I am particularly interested in the solutions for the sump and intake manifold. Keep us updated and don't give up!
 
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