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"Mr Fredrickson" A B8444S swapped 240 from the UK

Thanks for the kind sentiments. I'm not goint to give up!! :)

I've ordered a few bits recently which have arrived and opened up new work faces.
  1. Procured the steel angle which will make up the left hand side engine mount. Going to work on this tomorrow and the weekend. Very keen to get this done so I can remove the gearbox and test fit the flywheel.
  2. The injector test unit has arrived.
  3. The fuel injector rebuild kit has arrived.
  4. Stainless tig wire and some 1.75" stainless tubing has arrived so I can "practice" welding up headers. Already have the laser cut flanges.
  5. I have also (possibly) identified an off the shelf flywheel from a different vehicle which will probably fit. Its from a Ford Mk3 Mondeo V6 and has the exactly same crank nose mounting arrangement as the Volvo B8444s V8. Its arriving today and if it works out could help me avoid an eye watering custom flywheel bill.
 
Thanks for the kind words!

Ive been researching this for a long time but I think I have found an off the shelf solutions for my clutch/flywheel issue. If this works out I'll avoid a BIG custom flywheel bill.

I have found out now that a number of jaguar/ford v6 engines share the same crank nose mounting arrangment as the B8444s v8. So I ordered a Ford Mondeo ST220 V6 flywheel from GSF (in the UK). The have very generous returns terms for online purchases so nothing to lose really.

It fits the crank perfectly, but what amazed me more was that the the BMW 330D clutch pressure and friction plates fit perfectly as well!! The step from the flywheel friction surface to the mounting surface for the pressure plate is exactly the same as the BMW flywheel. A man selling one on ebay kindly agreed to measure it for me.

Only thing I'll have to do is make new clutch locating dowels or sleeve the existing one bigger. I seriously don't think I could even attempt this project without the lathe.

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I should have mentioned on the previous post that I'm concerned about the thickness of the adapter plate and the gearbox input shaft not reaching the friction plate. This weekend I'll finish the support mockups, remove the gear box and take some measurements.

I've decided on the left hand engine mount. Back to the 3" angle again. I'm going to weld tabs on the underside to bear on the central cylinder casting overhang. Also tie into the alternator mount on the left hand side.

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Further to my eariler mention of my frankenclutch setup and my being worried about friction plate and input shaft engagement

I took the bits to the surfacce plate tonight and took some measurements. Looks like without the adpater plate at 15mm I would have had perfect engagement for almost the full 26mm of the friction plate sleeve. As it stands I only have approx 10mm (3/8") engaged.

Options are as follows

1. Roll with it as it with 10mm engagement. I really don't think this would be a good idea.
2. Machine a flywheel spacer piece to move the flywheel out some. The flexplate had a spacer by the way.
3. Machine some material off the gearbox flange face. Not keen but could be done.
4. Machine the adapter ring thinner. Could be done.
5. Some combination of 2, 3, 4

My current favourite option is a flywheel spacer. Bit of googling suggest plenty of folks are doing this.

Be very interested in peoples thoughts though.

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I'm excitedly waiting for what transmission mating solution you come up with but I had my own thought. Make an adapter plate with the engine side bolt pattern only and then weld it to the transmission, chopping the necessary amount off the BMW bellhousing.

You're much further with your project than I am. I just got the transmission and ordered a flywheel. This thread is an excellent reference and has already helped a lot.

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I have my transmission mounted already using using the adapter plate I made. I think your idea is a great one! I did it my way partly because I wanted to try and do as much myself and I'm a lot more comfortable with machining and metawork than welding aluminium (though I am trying to learn as I go). Secondly I wanted to leave the gearbox as close to stock as possible so I could replace it like for like as a bolting job without having to machine and weld the bellhousing. I've resigned myself to needing to clearance for the starter though but thats a 5 min gob with the angry grinder rather than rewelding a whole bellhousing flange.

I'm feeling my way through this though so feel free to ask any questions. I don't know much but I'll help where I can.

I'm excitedly waiting for what transmission mating solution you come up with but I had my own thought. Make an adapter plate with the engine side bolt pattern only and then weld it to the transmission, chopping the necessary amount off the BMW bellhousing.

You're much further with your project than I am. I just got the transmission and ordered a flywheel. This thread is an excellent reference and has already helped a lot.

20221219-174922.jpg
 
So much helpful info on this thread. For example flywheel and clutch options. And also your checking the adapter plate against a whiteblock. This gave me the idea to check a Volvo 960 AW30 bellhousing for fitment to the B8444S. Perhaps with minor tweaking it can be made to fit?

Thank you so much for sharing your discoveries here! All the best with the project.
 
Cheers!!. Likewise, if you're down pembrokeshire way the kettle is always on matey.
Wish i'd read this early morning today as i just came back from Haverfordest... we got a job there that i might get back to at some point, so i will keep you posted ;)

Gime your number and i'll see if we can get along lol :D

ADam
 
I got my engine box fresh from Noble Automotive. It was destined for their M600 but they switched to Ford V8s for the next model.
 
Whoa that would then be a very special engine. Did you get it with the Noble specified mods?
Sadly not. Crate engine from Yamaha I believe. Bog standard 311bhp. Decent inlet and exhaust should get us to 350 but I’m not chasing power. Decent rumble/purr is what I want.
 
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