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Nets Silver 245

One step forward, two steps backwards...
Had a day free to work on the car. Finished all the intake and charge piping. Eventually I'll build a support for the MAF but for now it sits nicely on the inner fender.
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Started on the PCV system and only got the catch can mounted and a return line to the intake done. All I had was 10AN PTFE hose and fittings on hand. It's overkill and expensive but it will work.
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Now for the bad news... When I built the intercooler and radiator support I centred both in the core support opening and didn't take into consideration the fan and width of the battery... Both of these now no longer work; the fan hits the lower rad hose because it is centred instead of offset and the battery hits the intercooler.
Guess I'll be doing an e-fan conversion earlier than expected and buying some kind of compact battery.
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Thanks to 2manyturbos for the e-fan. I had to heavily modify the plastic shroud to get it to fit but nothing some zipties and duct tape couldn't handle. Eventually I'd like to make a new one out of aluminum and probably redo the intercooler/ radiator support I had previously built.
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The relays for the e-fan were mounted beside the power steering tank bracket. I shuffled all of the factory electrical stuff around to make room for a 6 circuit fuse holder and relays for it and the e-fan. It turned out pretty clean but is definitely cluttered. Future plan to free up space would be to get a late model 940 power steering pump with the built in res or do electric power steering.
I haven't decided how to control the fan yet. Probably going to put it on a switch for now since the radiator in the car doesn't have a temp sensor.

Also finished the PCV system, rebuilt and installed 1pc driveshaft and crossed a bunch of other loose ends off the list.

Goal is to get the car running over the Canada Day long weekend. Just need to build the exhaust, buy a new battery that fits due to my lack of planning and wire in gauges. Hopefully it goes well... At this point it's been sitting for 1.5 years so who knows what has decayed or decided to stop working over this time.
 
3'' turbo back exhaust is finished! I went with a Vibrant bottle style resonator and one of their street power mufflers. 409 stainless from Lyell's stainless exhaust supply. Sadly they were out of stock on most 304 fittings needed to build this which is why I went with 409.
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3'' V-bands made installing this a dream. I finally got a dual argon regulator and was able to purge all the tubing
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The entire time I was struggling with gas issues... Probably due to the cheap dual regulator I bought or maybe the bottle of argon I had was contaminated. Most of the welds were rusty and dull with visible contaminants on the surface. Eventually I'd like to build an over the axle exhaust and use 304 so I'm not to worried if this exhaust doesn't last.
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This was my first time tig welding pipe. Overall I'm stoked on how it turned out.
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Dusty ovlov on its first drive in 1.5 years. Needs to be lowered! I was shocked to find the wheels/ tires fit with 0 clearance issues.

3 days earlier I finished wrapping up all the loose ends and remaining things to do. Namely wiring the gauges, e-fan and doing a bolt check on the entire car.
Mounted the gauges in the centre of the dash and used the blank removable cover to get all the lines to the gauges. It turned out pretty decent but in the future I would like to move the head unit to the lower position and put the gauges in the dash.
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Pls ignore the janky stereo wiring job the previous owner did. This will get fixed eventually :p

Upon filling the engine with coolant I was met with numerous leaks. A bunch of the hose Lordco sold me looked like a cat chewed on it as it was peppered by holes, leaking coolant everywhere. Another was one of the banjo fittings for coolant to the turbo was leaking due to the AN fitting interfering ever so slightly with the CHRA and causing the copper washer to not crush fully on one side. By the time I'd fixed these it was pretty late but I wanted to wait and see if there were anymore leaks. While I was waiting I decided to fill the engine with the SAE 30 Lucas break in oil. With oil and coolant in the car and having done a tidy of the shop it was now very late. I was just about to leave but decided to check the car one final time for leaks... Low and behold there was now a large puddle of oil under the pan. GREAT! Oil was leaking out of the turbo oil drain line at the AN fitting going into the pan. It was very tight but oil was coming out from the swivel joint. I drained all the oil and went to bed.

The next day I built a new turbo drain line with the last remaining chunk of PTFE and fittings I had. Filled the engine with oil, it held and then primed the system by removing the timing belt and driving the aux shaft with a drill. All the lines held and the oil pressure was a solid 75 PSI.
With everything wrapped up, fluids topped up and fresh 93 in the gas tank I went to start the car... And spent the next 2 days trying to get it to start.

To keep a long story short I had spark, fuel, injector pulse and I'm mostly confident it's timed properly but for some reason the car would just crank and crank and crank with little dull pops or seem like it wanted to start but couldn't. I threw the entire parts bin and the thing, ran the port 2 diagnostic and everything was working fine, but it wouldn't start. New ETC, knock sensor, 2 sets of turbo ECU's and EZK's, stock FPR, CPS and the list goes on... I checked timing a billion times thinking maybe it was a tooth off but that did nothing. Finally I was about to call it quits and drive back to the Okanagan and abandon working on the car for a couple months but I decided to put a 3rd CPS in... And that fixed it. Kind of. The car is still hard to start and needs some throttle input to get going but once it's running it will stay running, however it hunts and stumbles during idle.

I'd love some input from the community but I'm suspecting a large vacuum leak and or the TPS needs to be set? Unless it could be something to do with the setup? I'm running .5mm of lift instead of the 1.5mm KL specs for the cam. Injectors and FPR were all recommended by @redblockpowered to be used with his stage 2 chips. I doubt those are the issue. The FPR doesn't leak either. The only thing I didn't change was the MAF since I only have 1 3'' MAF.

20 minute cam break in went fine and suprisingly there were no leaks. Engine seemed happy and had solid AFR's at 2-2.5k rpm with no load. The exhaust is suprisingly quiet and deep for being a 3'' turbo back with no cat and straight through res + muffler.

Did the first oil change and it looked to be expected for the first 20 minutes of a fresh build. Put fresh break in oil in it, did a quick bolt check including head studs torque check and went for its first drive.
Not sure where to start so here goes. The brakes and sway bar end links look and feel like they've been at the bottom of the pacific for 3 centuries. They will all need to be replaced. The T5 shifts SO MUCH nicer than the M47 and while it's noisy and makes some noises I don't seem to be plauged by horrendeous NVH that some members here have in their T5 swapped cars. Mind you I didn't get past 100km/hr or 4200 rpm. The 6 puck clutch is gonna take some getting used to. It grabs fast and hard and definately takes some finnese I haven't figured out yet.
The car cruises great and the AFR's seem solid as long as the engine is in vacuum. As soon as you give it more than 50% throttle or the engine approaches and exceeds 1 atmosphere it riches out to 9-8:1, bogs and makes no power. The turbo was able to hit 10psi but with the super rich condition I didn't want to push it too hard. I did about 20km of spirited driving, making it build boost then getting off throttle and letting it engine brake under vacuum.

That sums it up. I was in a rush due to going back on rotation the next day and didn't have time to look into the vacumm/ boost leak. Probably shouldn't have driven the car with it's current issues but it's been sitting 1.5 years and I couldn't wait. So far my plan is to build a DIY smoke test machine and use that to check for leaks. Also gonna do new rotor and plugs just for the peace of mind.
 
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All the issues I was having with the car are now fixed and it runs great! I had no idea how a few small vacuum leaks could make an engine run like total crap... So far I've done approximately 250km of spirited driving on a mix of highway and twisty mountain roads without issue. I'm still having the occasional running rich issue which I'm hoping is a boost leak due to a lot of the intercooler piping not having beads on the ends, which lets air get past the clamps. It will rich spike sometimes over 10psi or if I shift to fast. The boost controller is now set to 10-12 psi cause of this.
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I picked up the cheapest smoke tester on amazon and found multiple vacuum leaks right away. The throttle body was leaking at the TPS and throttle return spring, the flex coupler on the cold side of the intercooler and a poorly seated injector. I would probably never have found the leaks at the throttle body without it. Can't recommend buying one of these enough! The car now starts, idles and runs the best I've ever heard a red block. Injector O-rings fit tight on the throttle return spring side and are a lot larger/ tighter than the OE seal.
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2nd oil change after about 100km of driving. I've been driving the car reasonably hard. Lots of pulls with up to 10-12psi followed by letting the engine brake in vacuum. Haven't gone past 4-4500 rpm yet.
There was 2-3mm of very fine particles on the magnetic oil drain screw and the oil was clear but had a upper layer that was dark like graphite with lots of fine silvery particles. Further inspection showed more fine black particles in the oil filter. This is my first engine build so I'm not sure what is and isn't normal during break in. Just gonna keep driving the car and whatever happens happens. Next oil change will be after 5-600km of driving and I'll move to running conventional 10-30 for the next 3000km.
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Spent my last day off tidying up loose ends and cleaning up wiring.
26RS battery was what I ended up going with in order to clear the NPR intercooler end tanks. It fits perfectly in the OEM battery tray and makes use of the stock hold down clip.
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I'd like to tidy up this area more over the winter. It turned out fairly clean with the relays and fuse panel but the clean freak in me wants it neater. Gonna look for some kind of affordable PDM or all in one fuse panel and relay setup with the intention of simplifying the wiring big time because the current setup would get out of hand if I add additional loads like electric power steering or more lights.
Additional plans for the winter are to buy a new radiator with a thermostat in it and do the wasted spark conversion. I've got all the parts for wasted spark, just need to find the time.
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Killed the rest of the day adding insulation to all the hoses in and around the turbo area and securing all the AN lines that were just flopping around. Should help reduce heat soak on the oil cooler lines. At the very least it looks cool.
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Still haven't had a chance to use the riv-nut tool I got. With the engine being in the bay it's nearly impossible to get the tool in there... If I ever have to pull the engine I'll be replacing all the roofing screws with riv-nuts.
 
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Finally brought my 240 out to the Okanagan. I was surprised at how well my taco towed it over the 5 hour journey. Being such a small truck the brakes left a lot to be desired and the Uhauls surge brakes didn't help much. Despite that the trip went well!

I've got a pretty big list to tackle over the winter. Mostly stage 0 stuff with the intent of completely overhauling the cars suspension. Going poly and spherical bushings front to back on the car. But I won't be tackling any of that until the snow sticks. The plan till then is to drive the car as much as possible!
I couldn't help myself and took the afternoon to install a set of BNE coilovers in the front. I picked these up here on the forums and they have 350#springs with single adjustable Koni race dampers. Going to install the rears tomorrow if I have time.
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Fenders are going to need some serious violence to get the tires to fit now that the car is so low.
I left the offset spherical strut mounts on the square setting as that's how the coilovers arrived. I'll be switching to the triangle setting over the winter.
The car feels over sprung currently. It's very bouncy and stiff in the front. I need to mess around with spring preload and tuning the swaybar a bit but my initial impressions are it's WAY too bouncy.
 
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Looks great man! I had to take a jack handle and angle grinder to my fenders. The front was pretty easy to do, the rear was angle grinder time as it's 3 layers of metal.
 
Looks great man! I had to take a jack handle and angle grinder to my fenders. The front was pretty easy to do, the rear was angle grinder time as it's 3 layers of metal.
Hopefully I can avoid using a grinder, but that might be overly optimistic thinking. Did you have to reseal the inner fenders to the body on your car when you cut the rears apart?
 
Hopefully I can avoid using a grinder, but that might be overly optimistic thinking. Did you have to reseal the inner fenders to the body on your car when you cut the rears apart?

LOL, I mean...I should have done that but I just took the lip off. I can try and dig up pics but the car already had some rust so I didn't feel too bad with a mild hack. Drove it like that for 10 years and it worked great. We don't get road salt up in AK though. I think @towerymt has a good walk through of how to properly roll/fold/trim the rear end of a 240 showing where the layers of metal are.
 
Moved the car into the shop a buddy and I are renting for the winter, it will stay in here till the spring. We haven't had much time to setup the shop yet other than moving stuff in there. There's no workbenches yet or fab tables in the main room which makes doing any kind of work a pain. We also need to pull the motor on this chebby so the body can be sent to the crusher. This will free up the space for tables and storage of a friends Evo X.
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Picked up the worlds cheapest pipe bead roller and have been blown away with the results. Prior to this the charge pipes blew off a few times causing the car to die in traffic; not ideal.
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I never installed gaskets on the manifold to turbo or turbo to downpipe... So off it came. Gonna fix the crack in the manifold and relocate the oil filter while this is happening.
Down pipe and manifold reflect how rich the car is running. When I drove it a few weeks ago it had kind of figured itself out with the AFR's in the high 10's to low 11's but when I drove it for the last time yesterday it was back in the mid 9's under full boost.
Gonna add a 4-6'' section of pipe in front of the MAF in the hopes this helps lean the mix out.
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Fixed my cracked manifold. Welded at 60 amps like the nickle rod recommended and it seemed a little cold. Didn't get great penetration so we'll see if it lasts. Worst case it's an excuse to upgrade to the team kangaroos manifold.
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Relocated the oil filter to a more service friendly spot. With the turbo drain line and oil cooler lines it was a MASSIVE PITA to get the filter on and off.
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Built some plates to box in the LCA's but didn't have any gas at the new shop so couldn't weld them on just yet.
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I messed up the template and would have liked to take the plate over top of the front bushing pocket but I cut the steel to narrow. It'll have to do...
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Also doing full poly bushings in the front, stainless brake lines, semi-metallic brake pads, new ball joints, tie rods, tie rod ends and adjustable end links while the front is torn apart. Can't wait to feel what it's like to have a tight front end. The old bushings were blown out and possibly original to the car.
 
Front is back together and nearly completed! Just need to get a set of toe plates to do the alignment and install QSCR once they get restocked. Fingers crossed that's soon.
Did stainless brake lines, semi metallic brake pads, poly bushings and new tie rods, tie rod ends and ball joints. Also changed the coilovers to the triangle settings for max camber and set the swaybar so it had 0 preload while the car was at ride height.
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All black everything. Painted the swaybar black and managed to chip off a bunch of the paint during install. Really wishing I had all new hardware to complete the aesthetic look of the car.

Moved onto the rear of the car. It's crusty as hell and I retract my claim of the car being super clean. Both the rear lower spring perch clamps were gone from the rust. No idea how the rear springs were still in the car with nothing but compression holding them in place....
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Gonna do a complete overhaul of the rear just like the front. DIY adjustable torque rods with heim joints, adjustable panhard bar, rear axel spherical bushings, brakes, diff service etc. Debating replacing the trailing arms since they're so rusty...
 
Wasn't happy with how the NPR fit in the front cross member. There was a 25-30mm gap at the bottom and I wanted it to be super tight so air had nowhere to go but through it. Eventually I'll probably build some ducting to over complicate things even further.
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Friend of mine welded these tabs on.
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Built these brackets out of some mild steel and used some spare rubber bushings I found laying in a dusty corner.
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Painted and mounted to the chassis with some M6 rivnuts.
Onto the rear of the car:
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New rear control arms. OEM rubber bushings on the chassis side and BNE spherical bushings on the axle. Then I had an idea...
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DIY hybrid torque arms. The OEM torque arm OD fits perfectly inside of 1.25x1'' DOM tubing. 5/8 heim joints in the front. Hoping to finish these tomorrow and test fit in the car before fully welding them out.
 
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