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Nets Silver 245

One step forward, two steps backwards...
Had a day free to work on the car. Finished all the intake and charge piping. Eventually I'll build a support for the MAF but for now it sits nicely on the inner fender.
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Started on the PCV system and only got the catch can mounted and a return line to the intake done. All I had was 10AN PTFE hose and fittings on hand. It's overkill and expensive but it will work.
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Now for the bad news... When I built the intercooler and radiator support I centred both in the core support opening and didn't take into consideration the fan and width of the battery... Both of these now no longer work; the fan hits the lower rad hose because it is centred instead of offset and the battery hits the intercooler.
Guess I'll be doing an e-fan conversion earlier than expected and buying some kind of compact battery.
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Thanks to 2manyturbos for the e-fan. I had to heavily modify the plastic shroud to get it to fit but nothing some zipties and duct tape couldn't handle. Eventually I'd like to make a new one out of aluminum and probably redo the intercooler/ radiator support I had previously built.
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The relays for the e-fan were mounted beside the power steering tank bracket. I shuffled all of the factory electrical stuff around to make room for a 6 circuit fuse holder and relays for it and the e-fan. It turned out pretty clean but is definitely cluttered. Future plan to free up space would be to get a late model 940 power steering pump with the built in res or do electric power steering.
I haven't decided how to control the fan yet. Probably going to put it on a switch for now since the radiator in the car doesn't have a temp sensor.

Also finished the PCV system, rebuilt and installed 1pc driveshaft and crossed a bunch of other loose ends off the list.

Goal is to get the car running over the Canada Day long weekend. Just need to build the exhaust, buy a new battery that fits due to my lack of planning and wire in gauges. Hopefully it goes well... At this point it's been sitting for 1.5 years so who knows what has decayed or decided to stop working over this time.
 
3'' turbo back exhaust is finished! I went with a Vibrant bottle style resonator and one of their street power mufflers. 409 stainless from Lyell's stainless exhaust supply. Sadly they were out of stock on most 304 fittings needed to build this which is why I went with 409.
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3'' V-bands made installing this a dream. I finally got a dual argon regulator and was able to purge all the tubing
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The entire time I was struggling with gas issues... Probably due to the cheap dual regulator I bought or maybe the bottle of argon I had was contaminated. Most of the welds were rusty and dull with visible contaminants on the surface. Eventually I'd like to build an over the axle exhaust and use 304 so I'm not to worried if this exhaust doesn't last.
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This was my first time tig welding pipe. Overall I'm stoked on how it turned out.
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Dusty ovlov on its first drive in 1.5 years. Needs to be lowered! I was shocked to find the wheels/ tires fit with 0 clearance issues.

3 days earlier I finished wrapping up all the loose ends and remaining things to do. Namely wiring the gauges, e-fan and doing a bolt check on the entire car.
Mounted the gauges in the centre of the dash and used the blank removable cover to get all the lines to the gauges. It turned out pretty decent but in the future I would like to move the head unit to the lower position and put the gauges in the dash.
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Pls ignore the janky stereo wiring job the previous owner did. This will get fixed eventually :p

Upon filling the engine with coolant I was met with numerous leaks. A bunch of the hose Lordco sold me looked like a cat chewed on it as it was peppered by holes, leaking coolant everywhere. Another was one of the banjo fittings for coolant to the turbo was leaking due to the AN fitting interfering ever so slightly with the CHRA and causing the copper washer to not crush fully on one side. By the time I'd fixed these it was pretty late but I wanted to wait and see if there were anymore leaks. While I was waiting I decided to fill the engine with the SAE 30 Lucas break in oil. With oil and coolant in the car and having done a tidy of the shop it was now very late. I was just about to leave but decided to check the car one final time for leaks... Low and behold there was now a large puddle of oil under the pan. GREAT! Oil was leaking out of the turbo oil drain line at the AN fitting going into the pan. It was very tight but oil was coming out from the swivel joint. I drained all the oil and went to bed.

The next day I built a new turbo drain line with the last remaining chunk of PTFE and fittings I had. Filled the engine with oil, it held and then primed the system by removing the timing belt and driving the aux shaft with a drill. All the lines held and the oil pressure was a solid 75 PSI.
With everything wrapped up, fluids topped up and fresh 93 in the gas tank I went to start the car... And spent the next 2 days trying to get it to start.

To keep a long story short I had spark, fuel, injector pulse and I'm mostly confident it's timed properly but for some reason the car would just crank and crank and crank with little dull pops or seem like it wanted to start but couldn't. I threw the entire parts bin and the thing, ran the port 2 diagnostic and everything was working fine, but it wouldn't start. New ETC, knock sensor, 2 sets of turbo ECU's and EZK's, stock FPR, CPS and the list goes on... I checked timing a billion times thinking maybe it was a tooth off but that did nothing. Finally I was about to call it quits and drive back to the Okanagan and abandon working on the car for a couple months but I decided to put a 3rd CPS in... And that fixed it. Kind of. The car is still hard to start and needs some throttle input to get going but once it's running it will stay running, however it hunts and stumbles during idle.

I'd love some input from the community but I'm suspecting a large vacuum leak and or the TPS needs to be set? Unless it could be something to do with the setup? I'm running .5mm of lift instead of the 1.5mm KL specs for the cam. Injectors and FPR were all recommended by @redblockpowered to be used with his stage 2 chips. I doubt those are the issue. The FPR doesn't leak either. The only thing I didn't change was the MAF since I only have 1 3'' MAF.

20 minute cam break in went fine and suprisingly there were no leaks. Engine seemed happy and had solid AFR's at 2-2.5k rpm with no load. The exhaust is suprisingly quiet and deep for being a 3'' turbo back with no cat and straight through res + muffler.

Did the first oil change and it looked to be expected for the first 20 minutes of a fresh build. Put fresh break in oil in it, did a quick bolt check including head studs torque check and went for its first drive.
Not sure where to start so here goes. The brakes and sway bar end links look and feel like they've been at the bottom of the pacific for 3 centuries. They will all need to be replaced. The T5 shifts SO MUCH nicer than the M47 and while it's noisy and makes some noises I don't seem to be plauged by horrendeous NVH that some members here have in their T5 swapped cars. Mind you I didn't get past 100km/hr or 4200 rpm. The 6 puck clutch is gonna take some getting used to. It grabs fast and hard and definately takes some finnese I haven't figured out yet.
The car cruises great and the AFR's seem solid as long as the engine is in vacuum. As soon as you give it more than 50% throttle or the engine approaches and exceeds 1 atmosphere it riches out to 9-8:1, bogs and makes no power. The turbo was able to hit 10psi but with the super rich condition I didn't want to push it too hard. I did about 20km of spirited driving, making it build boost then getting off throttle and letting it engine brake under vacuum.

That sums it up. I was in a rush due to going back on rotation the next day and didn't have time to look into the vacumm/ boost leak. Probably shouldn't have driven the car with it's current issues but it's been sitting 1.5 years and I couldn't wait. So far my plan is to build a DIY smoke test machine and use that to check for leaks. Also gonna do new rotor and plugs just for the peace of mind.
 
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All the issues I was having with the car are now fixed and it runs great! I had no idea how a few small vacuum leaks could make an engine run like total crap... So far I've done approximately 250km of spirited driving on a mix of highway and twisty mountain roads without issue. I'm still having the occasional running rich issue which I'm hoping is a boost leak due to a lot of the intercooler piping not having beads on the ends, which lets air get past the clamps. It will rich spike sometimes over 10psi or if I shift to fast. The boost controller is now set to 10-12 psi cause of this.
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I picked up the cheapest smoke tester on amazon and found multiple vacuum leaks right away. The throttle body was leaking at the TPS and throttle return spring, the flex coupler on the cold side of the intercooler and a poorly seated injector. I would probably never have found the leaks at the throttle body without it. Can't recommend buying one of these enough! The car now starts, idles and runs the best I've ever heard a red block. Injector O-rings fit tight on the throttle return spring side and are a lot larger/ tighter than the OE seal.
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2nd oil change after about 100km of driving. I've been driving the car reasonably hard. Lots of pulls with up to 10-12psi followed by letting the engine brake in vacuum. Haven't gone past 4-4500 rpm yet.
There was 2-3mm of very fine particles on the magnetic oil drain screw and the oil was clear but had a upper layer that was dark like graphite with lots of fine silvery particles. Further inspection showed more fine black particles in the oil filter. This is my first engine build so I'm not sure what is and isn't normal during break in. Just gonna keep driving the car and whatever happens happens. Next oil change will be after 5-600km of driving and I'll move to running conventional 10-30 for the next 3000km.
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Spent my last day off tidying up loose ends and cleaning up wiring.
26RS battery was what I ended up going with in order to clear the NPR intercooler end tanks. It fits perfectly in the OEM battery tray and makes use of the stock hold down clip.
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I'd like to tidy up this area more over the winter. It turned out fairly clean with the relays and fuse panel but the clean freak in me wants it neater. Gonna look for some kind of affordable PDM or all in one fuse panel and relay setup with the intention of simplifying the wiring big time because the current setup would get out of hand if I add additional loads like electric power steering or more lights.
Additional plans for the winter are to buy a new radiator with a thermostat in it and do the wasted spark conversion. I've got all the parts for wasted spark, just need to find the time.
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Killed the rest of the day adding insulation to all the hoses in and around the turbo area and securing all the AN lines that were just flopping around. Should help reduce heat soak on the oil cooler lines. At the very least it looks cool.
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Still haven't had a chance to use the riv-nut tool I got. With the engine being in the bay it's nearly impossible to get the tool in there... If I ever have to pull the engine I'll be replacing all the roofing screws with riv-nuts.
 
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