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No power to fuel pump. New pump and relay

How do I test the crank sensor? Would this cause fuel pump to not turn on/prime with key on (but not actually cranking)?
There is an ohms spec in the manual for the sensor. But I have had them fail and look and ohm out fine. Substitution works best for the crank sensor. You can also test it with the on board diagnostics in LH2.4.

If the ecu doesn't think it's getting spark signal from the EZK. It won't turn on the fuel pumps. Also if the fuel pump relay system relay section fails you don't get spark or fuel. Just FYI.
 
A test lamp already has a poky tip and a negative ground clamp. Do you have one of these?

5 minutes poking around with a test lamp and a wiring diagram should find your fault.
 
Solved: I come here with my head hung in shame and totally humbled. After testing nearly every component, I decided to go through and clean every connection again. Though I had replaced the 25amp fuse connected to the battery, I apparently hadn't cleaned the connections as thoroughly as needed. It was difficult to get a pipe cleaner in the female connections within the fuse holder, but I eventually did and this seems to have solved the issue. There is now spark and fuel pump primes and runs. Car started right up. Drove it several miles. Did a few other short drives.

However, I am now back to where I started. While the car started fine. And started up several other times yesterday with no issue. It would not start this morning after sitting overnight. This is the same issue I was having previously. It will start fine within about 6 hours of a previous start, even if the engine is cold. However, longer than this, such as overnight, and it will not start. Sometimes, disconnecting and then reconnecting the fuel hose from the sender unit to the main pump will get it to start.

There was also a new problem- a rather violent jerk during hard acceleration in various gears (not sure if this is spark, injectors, clutch, or something else). Back to the drawing board.

But I want to thank all the helpful posters in this thread. Have learned a lot about the interplay of the various electronic components as a result.
 
Solved: I come here with my head hung in shame and totally humbled. After testing nearly every component, I decided to go through and clean every connection again. Though I had replaced the 25amp fuse connected to the battery, I apparently hadn't cleaned the connections as thoroughly as needed. It was difficult to get a pipe cleaner in the female connections within the fuse holder, but I eventually did and this seems to have solved the issue. There is now spark and fuel pump primes and runs. Car started right up. Drove it several miles. Did a few other short drives.

However, I am now back to where I started. While the car started fine. And started up several other times yesterday with no issue. It would not start this morning after sitting overnight. This is the same issue I was having previously. It will start fine within about 6 hours of a previous start, even if the engine is cold. However, longer than this, such as overnight, and it will not start. Sometimes, disconnecting and then reconnecting the fuel hose from the sender unit to the main pump will get it to start.

There was also a new problem- a rather violent jerk during hard acceleration in various gears (not sure if this is spark, injectors, clutch, or something else). Back to the drawing board.

But I want to thank all the helpful posters in this thread. Have learned a lot about the interplay of the various electronic components as a result.
At this point, I would say that there might be some sediment in the tank, or some other sort of fueling issue. Might be a good time to look at some fuel components.
 
When the car is cold overnight. Remove some spark plugs and check them for being fouled. See if they smell of gas. You may have dirty injectors leaking down fuel overnight. That would foul the plugs. A fuel pressure check may also help.
Look at the good side. You made progress on a multi part problem with your car.
 
When the car is cold overnight. Remove some spark plugs and check them for being fouled. See if they smell of gas. You may have dirty injectors leaking down fuel overnight. That would foul the plugs. A fuel pressure check may also help.
Look at the good side. You made progress on a multi part problem with your car.
Very true. Appreciate the optimism. I did replace the plugs about a month ago when initially trying to diagnose the issue. But will check them now to see how they look.
 
If you want to physically see if they are dripping you can remove the injectors and see what comes out when you run the fuel pumps. Engine off. But be careful with the gas. There are very important grounds on the fuel rail hold down bolts. One is for the fuel computer. The other is for the ignition computer. Make sure those are clean and tight. I would double check for any codes and do the that diagnostic to test the sensors.
 
If you want to physically see if they are dripping you can remove the injectors and see what comes out when you run the fuel pumps. Engine off. But be careful with the gas. There are very important grounds on the fuel rail hold down bolts. One is for the fuel computer. The other is for the ignition computer. Make sure those are clean and tight. I would double check for any codes and do the that diagnostic to test the sensors.
Thank you very much! Its throwing 3-2-2 from terminal 2 in the diagnostic box (MAF sensor burn-off signal missing or faulty).

Tried unplugging the MAF and it started, though roughly and wanted to stall initially. Bad MAF?
 
You can back probe the connector on the mass air sensor and see if it does the burn off. That is a 12v signal sent to the air flow sensor about 30-45 seconds after you shut the car off. If that is missing the sensor can get contaminated. The car starting with the sensor disconnected is another symptom of a bad sensor.
 
Best to leave it connected. Pull back the boot on the mass airflow connector and back probe the contacts. I forget which pin it is but it's readily available info. You should down the car with the meter connected and wait until you see the pulse. lasts only a short time so watch it carefully. I would also check to see that the contacts are ok in the connector. An open connection would trigger the code.
 
Best to leave it connected. Pull back the boot on the mass airflow connector and back probe the contacts. I forget which pin it is but it's readily available info. You should down the car with the meter connected and wait until you see the pulse. lasts only a short time so watch it carefully. I would also check to see that the contacts are ok in the connector. An open connection would trigger the code.
The problem is the car won’t start with MAF connected so can’t turn it off to check for voltage in burnoff. I found a used Bosch MAF for $50 and will try that out and report back.
 
A car that won't start with the maf connected. Then starts with it removed from the circuit. Means it's a bad mass airflow sensor.
Ok thanks. That’s what I assumed as well. I should have been more clear in my previous post that it only starts with MAF disconnected.
 
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