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No start after changing distributor seals. 97’ 940

Jamesmoore

Jamesmoore

Active member
Joined
Jul 26, 2021
Location
united kingdom
My car died one day whilst driving, I diagnosed it to be a “damaged” rotor and dizzy cap. When I pulled the cap it was full of oil, all the points and rotor were really fouled up. I’m now questioning my diagnosis

Pulled the dizzy assembly. Changed all the internal seals ( yes including the internal seal ) reassembled
Reinstalled. New cap and rotor. And the car still won’t start.

Definitely getting fuel, confirmed spark out of the coil. Still no start.

Is it possible to get the dizzy 180 degrees out. When installed, the rotor pointed slightly towards the drivers side of the car ( RH drive ) maybe about 1:30 ocklock as if sitting in the drivers seat if that makes sense. This was with the crank and cam timing set to tdc1

Is it possible as above I have this wrong? If not where should I look. I doubt All 4 plugs or wires have failed. I haven’t checked spark at plugs yet. ( tool on order my last one got lost ) however spraying starter fluid into the intake results in the odd cylinder fire, and occasional backfire out of the intake. This surely confirms spark at plugs.

Is it possible my actual timing ( crank to cam ) is off. Might the belt have slipped ? I have an upgraded crank gear with the woodruff key, installing these makes checking the timing harder as the actual gear and the pulley sit 180 degrees off when the actual crank is correct.

Any advice ?
 
Jamesmoore said:
Is it possible to get the dizzy 180 degrees out.
Click to expand...
No, the rotor only goes on the cam one way
Jamesmoore said:
Is it possible my actual timing ( crank to cam ) is off. Might the belt have slipped ?
Click to expand...
Yes.

If you know you have fuel pressure, injector pulse, and spark from the coil, I'd say it's cam (and thus on your car) distributor rotor position. Does the oil pressure light turn off when cranking? If it does then you at least still have a belt on the gears.
 
OVERDRIVE said:
No, the rotor only goes on the cam one way

Yes.

If you know you have fuel pressure, injector pulse, and spark from the coil, I'd say it's cam (and thus on your car) distributor rotor position. Does the oil pressure light turn off when cranking? If it does then you at least still have a belt on the gears.
Click to expand...
Belt is on the gears for sure I can see it, cam is turning yes. No valve contact (ipd cam and shaved head so there would be if timing was really off) so it really can only be a few teeth of max.

Regarding the rotor on the cam, I’m aware the rotor is slotted. But in terms of the actual distributor shaft, it’s keyed too but it’s offset, but maybe it’s possible to get that the wrong way ?

I guess my next step is to remove timing belt and reset
 
Jamesmoore said:
Regarding the rotor on the cam, I’m aware the rotor is slotted. But in terms of the actual distributor shaft, it’s keyed too but it’s offset, but maybe it’s possible to get that the wrong way ?
Click to expand...
The slot in the cam is eccentric so the distributor will only go on one way.

You can pull the timing cover off and check timing really easy, it'd be 2 minutes. A 10mm, 12mm, Phillips, and a 24mm for the crank if you can't turn it over by hand. You don't even need to completely remove the cover, the water pump pulley is in the way but there's room to pull the cover back enough to check the dots.
 
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