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Normal temperature reading after bypassing faker

Dpm0317

Dpm0317

Member
Joined
May 8, 2019
Location
Raleigh NC
Hey just wanted to get y’all’s experience with the temp gauge after bypassing the faker.

Some background. I’ve been driving this car (93 245, completely stock mechanically) almost daily for 4 years. The original cluster had a wonky temp gauge, only worked half the time. I replaced coolant, hoses, thermostat, and water pump so figured it was fine and it’s never let me down.

So recently I got a new cluster to tackle the temp gauge issue, and bypassed the faker bc I’ve always had problems with them.

For the first week it ran at 9 o’clock steady. With the ac it would go to 10 o’clock. Seemed fine.

Yesterday driving though a little traffic on a 100 degree day with the ac on it went to 11 or so. Under the red, but not by much. It didn’t continue to rise but higher than I liked. It was real hot, but wondering if this is normal in y’all’s experience or if I should go ahead and replace the radiator? I know the faker kind of normalizes high temps so not sure how much that changes things. Thanks!
 
I didn’t overheat, no coolant boiling. I didn’t touch the hoses, but think coolant was flowing. Just drove to work this morning, by the way, and everything was back to normal. Maybe just an issue when it’s super hot?
 
My temp faker is bypassed, original VDO temp sender. Sitting in traffic on a 90 degree day with the AC on it sits right at 9 o'clock, never goes over. Under normal driving it's just under the dot. I think shoestring has mentioned that with the temp faker bypassed, up closer to the red is actually like being in the red.

You're running hot, maybe your clutch fan is bad. Is the pusher fan coming on with the AC? My needle really never wavers, no matter the condition it sticks straight in the middle.
 
Interesting. Thanks for the response. The electric aux fan is coming on. I haven't really looked at the fan clutch but I'll check that out.
 
I’d get an IR thermometer so you can read actual temperatures at the thermostat housing.

https://a.co/d/078mvf2f

I’d also check if the fins of the radiator/condensor are clogged with bugs / debris. It’s easy enough to remove engine fan and shroud and spray it out with a hose (towards front of car).
 
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A little too late but people have mixed experiences with the tropical fan clutch. If you're running an 87c thermostat the fan might be engaging all the time. Like I mentioned, I dont think there's much of a window between the stock fan clutch and 87c thermostat. Volvo designed most things correct, if they thought it needed a lower operating temp in a mild climate they would've came that way.

What 240 maintenance/upgrade part did you regret after installing?

Sometimes with maintaining and upgrading cars we replace a stock or damaged part with something that ends up being worse. What did you install and end up uninstalling? For me I regret: Rear IPD sedan overload springs (too sprung) and makes the car more prone to oversteer/axle hop unloaded...
turbobricks.com turbobricks.com
 
Good point - I'll check the radiator fins and clean that up. I've had that tropical fan clutch on my radar for years - understood the opinions are mixed but its easy enough to switch out that its worth a shot...
 
My gauge climbs like yours if I sit at a light too long on a hot day with the AC on but I know it's because my pusher fan failed.
 
OVERDRIVE said:
A little too late but people have mixed experiences with the tropical fan clutch. If you're running an 87c thermostat the fan might be engaging all the time. Like I mentioned, I dont think there's much of a window between the stock fan clutch and 87c thermostat. Volvo designed most things correct, if they thought it needed a lower operating temp in a mild climate they would've came that way.

What 240 maintenance/upgrade part did you regret after installing?

Sometimes with maintaining and upgrading cars we replace a stock or damaged part with something that ends up being worse. What did you install and end up uninstalling? For me I regret: Rear IPD sedan overload springs (too sprung) and makes the car more prone to oversteer/axle hop unloaded...
turbobricks.com turbobricks.com
Click to expand...
Tropical fan clutch also solves other issues like heat soak
 
Dpm0317 said:
Hey just wanted to get y’all’s experience with the temp gauge after bypassing the faker.

Some background. I’ve been driving this car (93 245, completely stock mechanically) almost daily for 4 years. The original cluster had a wonky temp gauge, only worked half the time. I replaced coolant, hoses, thermostat, and water pump so figured it was fine and it’s never let me down.

So recently I got a new cluster to tackle the temp gauge issue, and bypassed the faker bc I’ve always had problems with them.

For the first week it ran at 9 o’clock steady. With the ac it would go to 10 o’clock. Seemed fine.

Yesterday driving though a little traffic on a 100 degree day with the ac on it went to 11 or so. Under the red, but not by much. It didn’t continue to rise but higher than I liked. It was real hot, but wondering if this is normal in y’all’s experience or if I should go ahead and replace the radiator? I know the faker kind of normalizes high temps so not sure how much that changes things. Thanks!
Click to expand...
Some background. I’ve been driving this car (93 245, completely stock mechanically) almost daily for 4 years. The original cluster had a wonky temp gauge, only worked half the time.
Click to expand...

what does only work half the time mean?

and your car never boiled over in 4 years, so you decided to replace parts?


I know the faker kind of normalizes high temps so not sure how much that changes things.
Click to expand...
So, you aren't sure how it works, so you decided to delete it and then are wondering what deleting it should do?

Under the red, but not by much. It didn’t continue to rise but higher than I liked. It was real hot,
Click to expand...
how much under the red would you like?

so, you didn't like the faker that kept the needle "where you like" and then are concerned when the car acts like a normal car? and the gauge acts like a normal gauge?

so when the gauge reads steady in the normal range on a 100 degree day with AC blasting, and it's not rising anymore, you come to the conclusion that more parts need replacing?

The tempFaker wasn't enough idiot proofing, Volvo should have just used an idiot light
 
I was going to say, that's exactly why the faker board was added. The temp goes up or down, dependingon the outside temps, and the laod, etc. People didn't like the looks of the temp going up, and they'd take it by the dealer. It didn't overheat, but the needle went up!

I think this is just a learning curve for a 'real' temp gauge, the engine doesn't always stay at a constant temp, regardless of the thermostat.

If it goes into the red, or it boils, do some more troubleshooting.

All that said, I was PARANOID AS HELL about my 'real' faker board removed temp gauge in my 240 after the LS swap. I'm still a bit paranoid about it. So I'm not saying your concern is unwarranted.
 
apachechef said:
what does only work half the time mean?

and your car never boiled over in 4 years, so you decided to replace parts?



So, you aren't sure how it works, so you decided to delete it and then are wondering what deleting it should do?


how much under the red would you like?

so, you didn't like the faker that kept the needle "where you like" and then are concerned when the car acts like a normal car? and the gauge acts like a normal gauge?

so when the gauge reads steady in the normal range on a 100 degree day with AC blasting, and it's not rising anymore, you come to the conclusion that more parts need replacing?

The tempFaker wasn't enough idiot proofing, Volvo should have just used an idiot light
Click to expand...
Lol.

I'll answer these - appreciate your input here. I can add some detail here - didn't want to make the original post but so long... But yes. The temp gauge was always wonky. I've had 4 240s, all had wonky temp gauges for a variety of reasons so it didn't really bother me that much. The last one I had the gauge was dead and I just used an IR gun.

I would have liked to get this one working but under previous ownership the speedo connector was super glued on so it was impossible to remove without sourcing a replacement connector. I could, with limited access due to not being able to completely remove the cluster, bypass the faker by hooking the yellow wire directly to the temp gauge.

Recently I found a new cluster that came with the connectors that needed to be replaced so jumped on it.

As normal maintenance with all of my old cars (I currently have a mercedes SL, have had old suburbans, dodge trucks, and many volvos...) I always replace the water pumps, water hoses, thermostats. I don't see it as throwing parts at it, its worth it if you daily old cars. I have expendable income for my car hobby, so don't necessarily mind buying a fan clutch to provide me a bit of weekend entertainment. To each their own.

My original post was geared towards surveying other Volvo drivers on their experiences. Gathering information - I would call it that. No conclusion about needing parts, just curiosity. I do find new parts and new tools entertaining though.
 
apachechef said:
what does only work half the time mean?

and your car never boiled over in 4 years, so you decided to replace parts?



So, you aren't sure how it works, so you decided to delete it and then are wondering what deleting it should do?


how much under the red would you like?

so, you didn't like the faker that kept the needle "where you like" and then are concerned when the car acts like a normal car? and the gauge acts like a normal gauge?

so when the gauge reads steady in the normal range on a 100 degree day with AC blasting, and it's not rising anymore, you come to the conclusion that more parts need replacing?

The tempFaker wasn't enough idiot proofing, Volvo should have just used an idiot light
Click to expand...

WTH?!

Cheer up man :oopsie:

Only US cars have the faker board. I've owned my car for just over 20 years with no faker board in sight, and the gauge has never moved from 9 O'clock after warming up.

How old is your radiator?
 
Interesting - never knew that was a U.S. only thing. My radiator is original as far as I know, I plan to do an inspection of it this weekend. One other thing popped in my mind - I am missing the splash guard underneath - I wonder if the splash guard functions similarly to the radiator shroud in directing airflow?
 
Dpm0317 said:
Interesting - never knew that was a U.S. only thing. My radiator is original as far as I know, I plan to do an inspection of it this weekend. One other thing popped in my mind - I am missing the splash guard underneath - I wonder if the splash guard functions similarly to the radiator shroud in directing airflow?
Click to expand...
Maybe a little, but not while the car is stopped. I don't think it would affect your temperature.
 
Update. Got the new tropical fan clutch on: It definitely keeps it a little bit cooler. I was measuring around 210 at the thermostat housing and now it’s around 195.

A couple things surprised me - it’s not loud like I’ve read, and it’s not any bigger or heavier than the old one. Maybe the original clutch was tropical, I don’t know. The ac seems to be a little colder now.

There is a lot more resistance on the old clutch when cold. It’s hard to turn. The new one has some resistance, but not nearly as much. Is it possible for a fan clutch to go bad from too much resistance?

I may replace the radiator too just for preventative maintenance even though I’m sure that will piss somebody off lol
 
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