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Normal temperature reading after bypassing faker

Maybe a little, but not while the car is stopped. I don't think it would affect your temperature.
the splash guard is actually crucial to how the mechanical fans work.
so is the front air dam scoop.
it's designed for all the air to woosh back into the firewall and underneath so the car doesn't get hot. The drawback is the interior turns into lava and you sweat balls from the waist down. put that heat shield sound insulation in.
 
Update. Got the new tropical fan clutch on: It definitely keeps it a little bit cooler. I was measuring around 210 at the thermostat housing and now it’s around 195.

A couple things surprised me - it’s not loud like I’ve read, and it’s not any bigger or heavier than the old one. Maybe the original clutch was tropical, I don’t know. The ac seems to be a little colder now.
yes this is supposed to happen.
There is a lot more resistance on the old clutch when cold. It’s hard to turn. The new one has some resistance, but not nearly as much. Is it possible for a fan clutch to go bad from too much resistance?
no. Tropic fan clutches last a long time. not as long as regular ones but still a while.
I may replace the radiator too just for preventative maintenance even though I’m sure that will piss somebody off lol
whats the age on the radiator?
Do you already have a 3 row copperbrass nissens?
 
I think the radiator is the oe Volvo. I don’t see the 3 rows available anywhere.

in regards to the clutch colors - where is the red or black? Obviously the case is silver on both, you must be referring to a sticker or something?
 
Q: Are you calling the faker, the actual water temp gauge that behaves erratically?

If it is, then I can tell you that mine is just goofy. The car in question is a original 1993 245 auto, coming up in less than 48 miles to her first 100,000 miles of use.

Had her since 2021 from first owner and the wagon is deliciously almost flawless; except the water temp needle goes up (on occasion) almost to the red while street or hwy driving, no matter the engine load. Or in a series of repetitive traffic stops Both A/C on or off.

However, the needle also (seldomly) will point rock bottom down cold in the winter. Most of the time it just stays normal (to me) between 8:30 or 9.

So I have read here, and also one of my Viking mechanics told me, that I should slap the top of the dashboard on top of the temp fuel dial, and it would come back to normal. And in my case it does. Been thinking of installing a Tropical fan but I don't see any use for it, just yet.

I'd like to fix this but I'm OK as I know the car does not over heat. Hope this helps.
 
Half an hour and the temperature compensator board is bypassed and the erratic readings are gone. Did that in all my 86 and newer 240s over the years.
 
I am not familiar with this “faker” in Volvos, is it similar to the IVR on Fords? (Instrument voltage regulator that buffers movement)
Yeah, Volvo got tired of telling everyone their car wasn't over heating and its normal for the needle to fluctuate.
 
Half an hour and the temperature compensator board is bypassed and the erratic readings are gone. Did that in all my 86 and newer 240s over the years.
Do you care to further explain how to “invest” one’s half an hour to bypass this and actually how to do it, please? I’m very curious. Thanks
 
One more thing, I replaced the big clock with a large tachometer, does that make a difference in option 1?
(not opening the cluster)
 
Volvo designed most things correct, if they thought it needed a lower operating temp in a mild climate they would've came that way.
I have often said I agree with many of the great engineering decisions that came in our 240s. Volvo engineers were really good. The problem is that IN MY OPINION many good engineering decisions were overridden by bean-counters and PR executives and that resulted in some disappointing compromises. The whole idea behind the temp faker was a compromise designed to hide things from the public. They made a great car with a nice cooling system for a mild climate. Sending that car to really hot regions in the US. with things like AC and intercoolers and all the extra heat-producing parts, all with decisions like not upgrading the cooling system, was certainly not overlooked by engineers. But I think the ones in charge stayed with the "not advised" light-duty cooling system to save time and money.

So it's been up to us to find ways to improve those weak spots. Not that I mind doing it. If the car was perfect then it would have always remained too much for the likes of cheap-asses like me.
 
One more thing, I replaced the big clock with a large tachometer, does that make a difference in option 1?
(not opening the cluster)
Good question. Answer is the tachometer's presence makes no difference in the method where the yellow wire from the temp sender is diverted directly to the gauge terminal, instead of through the compensator circuit.
 
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