• Hello Guest, welcome to the initial stages of our new platform!
    You can find some additional information about where we are in the process of migrating the board and setting up our new software here

    Thank you for being a part of our community!

NPR performance (data logged and graphed)

BDKR said:
Oooohhhhhh!!!!!! Never mind what I just said. It looks like I was reading it wrong! :oops:

It would seem that intake temp should remain constant. What's going on here?
Click to expand...

well it was getting later in the day, so it was getting hotter outside. I also think that since my airbox is in the engine compartment things(ie TURBO) were just getting hot inside, and transferring heat into the intake area.
 
This is nice info. I always wanted to do this with my NPR, but haven't had the equipment to log like this.

If you could, confirm some things and follow my interpretation here. This graph shows about 12-13 minutes of drive time by looking at the x labels. Im guessing You installed the thermocouples and started making this recording with a cool engine, so the engine is warming up during this drive. This is why the intake temps at the airbox are drifting higher and higher through the course of the drive. I'd be curious how long it takes to stabilize the airbox temperatures.

Also, there are some pretty big spikes in the turbo outlet temps. Since there is no boost pressure plotted here, I"m assuming the big spikes are when you were on the throttle and making boost. From the looks of that line you were really out hammering it over the 12 minutes, and not really giving the NPR any chance to recover from the input heat. Thats good for this kind of test. Give it hell. Lets see what it can take. Its also interesting that the big spikes are almost entirely muted at the intercooler cold side. REALLY muted. IF you looked at the temps at the intake manifold, you could almost not tell when the car was under boost and when it wasn't. Thats very nice to see.

Also, somebody said that these intercoolers are pretty good flowing? Are there pressure drop numbers somewhere on the forum? I have a second boost gauge here now.. And I really want to install it to monitor the pressure drop across the intercooler once I get running again.

I have also observed that the NPR can really cool well. I can see intake temps in my megasquirt logs. And they never spike or get very high. Though, I often think that the cooler must be trading some major restriction to get this kind of heat transfer. Just a suspicion, but totally unfounded.
 
The loggers currently do not have a pressure sensor that you can plug in. However, can just log voltage from any kind of input. I'm in the process of finding a low voltage pressure sensor. i will then make a correlation table of pressure v. voltage for the sensor and log the voltage from the pressure sensor using the hobo logger.

There are SOME issues with me test. One hose blew of 3 times and i had to pull over to fix it.
Like i said, i'm MORE than willing to redo this to get even more controlled numbers, but i would like some other people from dwf to come we can log some other type of intercoolers.
AND YES i was giving it hell. But i always do that :-P
 
Gene I suggest installing T-Bolt clamps so that you will NEVER have an intake hose come undone due to poor clamps. Go shopping at the boat store. They will have them. Worth the additional dough.
 
JohnLane said:
Gene I suggest installing T-Bolt clamps so that you will NEVER have an intake hose come undone due to poor clamps. Go shopping at the boat store. They will have them. Worth the additional dough.
Click to expand...

+1, and make sure they're tight coming off the outlet of the turbo. you don't want your aluminum piping flying off the turbo and making a dent in your hood(you're newly repainted hood esp.), as well as making a big problem for the car running properly.
 
Hey Gene, please tell me more about your setup. What is in the nose of the car? Radiator/intercooler/AC condensor? Is there an electric fan? Or just the engine fan.

I have my car running again lately and just comparing notes because I have the same intercooler. I have been having trouble keeping the motor cool with an electric fan. I'm OK with the engine driven propeller. But one of my thoughts is that the AC condensor and big thick intercooler that covers the entire radiator surface was just too much restriction for my electric fan.
 
man, how did i miss this thread? cool cool cool. a pressure drop test would be nice. from what i can tell, the NPR does get a little heatsoaked (or maybe the rise in cold-side temp is a reflection of its efficiency limits?). i wonder how a mister on the IC would affect your numbers. hopefully someone with a stock IC in the dallas area will step up so we can all see the difference between the two.

i agree with the assertion that the test should be longer, so the system comes to equilibrium (as much as can be, considering that the ambient temp fluctuates).

have fun,
 
Last edited:
qwkswede said:
Hey Gene, please tell me more about your setup. What is in the nose of the car? Radiator/intercooler/AC condensor? Is there an electric fan? Or just the engine fan.

I have my car running again lately and just comparing notes because I have the same intercooler. I have been having trouble keeping the motor cool with an electric fan. I'm OK with the engine driven propeller. But one of my thoughts is that the AC condensor and big thick intercooler that covers the entire radiator surface was just too much restriction for my electric fan.
Click to expand...

just a stock 90 nose (condesor-radiator-intercooler) mechanical fan with the pusher fan still there.



smosit said:
man, how did i miss this thread? cool cool cool. a pressure drop test would be nice. from what i can tell, the NPR does get a little heatsoaked (or maybe the rise in cold-side temp is a reflection of its efficiency limits?). i wonder how a mister on the IC would affect your numbers. hopefully someone with a stock IC in the dallas area will step up so we can all see the difference between the two.

i agree with the assertion that the test should be longer, so the system comes to equilibrium (as much as can be, considering that the ambient temp fluctuates).

have fun,
Click to expand...


OK here is my plan.
Once the temps come down a bit more outside, or maybe next weekend I will grab a logger and run the test again without the hose popping off and in a controlled area. I will also try to get two or three pressure transducers and log that too. Now i need someone with a stock setup and any one else that is willing to test. Call up your TX buddies everyone. Any other thoughts?
 
Thanks Gene, good to hear you still have Air Conditioning on the car and are getting great results like that. I still have the full array of accessories too, and so far I have felt the engine driven propellor along with a boost from the auxilary fan in front is totally necessary to keep the car cool. Not that the dash gauge would ever tell you anyway. but logging in megasquirt shows me that the cooling system is marginal at best.
 
well there are 2 more things to consider. I'm on a lh tune so that could actually effect engine temp due to combustion and timing issues. But you are right the needle isn't too reactive, so i could be running a bit hot. Plus i'm in freakin texas. HOT!
 
i could be wrong, but i don't think the EMS is going to affect the temp/pressure drop across the IC....i repeat: i could be wrong. :)

--ryan
 
smosit said:
i could be wrong, but i don't think the EMS is going to affect the temp/pressure drop across the IC....i repeat: i could be wrong. :)

--ryan
Click to expand...

I agree ;-) but what i'm saying depending on your mixture your combustion could be a lot hotter and making the radiator output even more heat, which would in turn transfer heat to the IC.

but i could be wrong to :-)
 
extra radiation from coolant radiator will be extra, surely, running an 82 degrees(C) thermostat. though perhaps this is to be felt to a critical extent at low speeds. Without an air conditioning condensor, at moderate to high cruising speeds, will nearly nullify the effect of the radiation from coolant radiator transference to the intercooler. taking into account the backpressure from the mechanincal pusher fan...Is my reasoning flawed?
 
Well i won't argue that i KNOW its going to effect it, i would consider the effect of radiation and if its hot enough to where you think your car might over heat, chances are your A/C is on therefore your system has even more thermal load.

I don't know if it makes a difference, and frankly it doesn't make a bit of a difference, there are SO MANY other places to chop of power loss that i wouldn't only consider this later in the game.

Gene
 
Gene_Gatech said:
Well i won't argue that i KNOW its going to effect it, i would consider the effect of radiation and if its hot enough to where you think your car might over heat, chances are your A/C is on therefore your system has even more thermal load.

I don't know if it makes a difference, and frankly it doesn't make a bit of a difference, there are SO MANY other places to chop of power loss that i wouldn't only consider this later in the game.

Gene
Click to expand...

It would be great if you can find someone with a stock IC and THEN someone with an ebay special 24x12x3 IC. :oogle:
 
Thanks for the info, Gene. Good to see.

Anyone have the OEM data to compare it to? (or did I sleep thru that class again?)
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top