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Oil cooler sandwich plate replacements - suggestions?

It might be a good idea where you are. But if you do a filter and cooler in series you don’t want a thermostat in series with those, or below the opening temp it will circulate unfiltered oil.
The only thermostats i have seen are sandwich. To be honest, i have never opened one, but i have one i could peak inside.
Time for additional insight/opinions.
The remote Mocal filter head I have runs the thermostat after the filter so if it's closed, filtered oil goes back to the block, when open it runs to the cooler then back to the block.

The stock Oil/Water heat exchanger does help heat up the oil on cold start so without that on the air/oil setup I have, i wanted the thermostat to allow a quicker warm up period. It is surprising how much faster the coolant heats up vs oil. Quite a few miles difference.
 
Setrab makes a really nice one with a thermostat. I used it on my b230 swap and it’s one of the few parts that’s being reused on the Duratec. The new one even provides an additional NPT port for a sensor, etc.

 
The remote Mocal filter head I have runs the thermostat after the filter so if it's closed, filtered oil goes back to the block, when open it runs to the cooler then back to the block.

The stock Oil/Water heat exchanger does help heat up the oil on cold start so without that on the air/oil setup I have, i wanted the thermostat to allow a quicker warm up period. It is surprising how much faster the coolant heats up vs oil. Quite a few miles difference.
No doubt why the OE engineers chose the WAHLER T-stat style remote cooler blocks. Oil does take a good while to get up above the water condensation point. I don't know off hand, but would guess the water-oil cooler block has no stat and flows continuously.
 
No doubt why the OE engineers chose the WAHLER T-stat style remote cooler blocks.
The 93+ 940s had the engine oil coolers hooked into the coolant system to serve a double purpose, I imagine. Not only does the coolant flow cool the oil down when hot, it also warms the oil up faster when the ambient temps are low, for the very reasons you said. You want to get the oil hot enough to boil off all those nasty combustion by-products, and using engine coolant in this way will warm up the engine quickly. Then OTOH you don't want the oil so hot that it turns to crap.

Since I never have to worry about snow, I'm more concerned about cooling the engine oil, since average ambient temps 'round here are quite high compared to the northern hemisphere.
 
I just got the following from Pegasus. GREAT site, they have everything! Since I have a stock oil cooler, this will just be for the remote mount filter. I can't wait to be able to access this thing instead of fighting to get to it. The 1/4 npt is for the block tap for the turbo oil feed. Just tired of the hard lines and working around them. Also got the Yoshifab oil drain kit.

1744728707730.png
 
I just got the following from Pegasus. GREAT site, they have everything! Since I have a stock oil cooler, this will just be for the remote mount filter. I can't wait to be able to access this thing instead of fighting to get to it. The 1/4 npt is for the block tap for the turbo oil feed. Just tired of the hard lines and working around them. Also got the Yoshifab oil drain kit.

View attachment 32015
I did the same thing for the oil feed. The hard line is gone. If you still have the T3 the inlet is threaded 1/8 npt and you can use the 1/8npt to 4 AN adapter for that. They have it. then I bought a generic 3ft 4 AN line. I wanted it long because I am eventually going to add a turbo oil accumulator for shut down oiling. Good stuff. For the turbo oil feed you could also use 14mm 1.5 to 4AN adapter at the original block feed.
 
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