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Pig: '79 242 16vT

Stiggy Pop said:
Wait, did you buy a set of Autostrada Modenas? That?s my dream wheel
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The Full Banana said:
This is all I want to know as well :cameron:
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Unfortunately no, but those are definitely a dream wheel. Thinking of scraping pennies and getting some 17 (or18)x9? F40 style wheels. Image and Augument both make extremely high quality stuff. Might need to get a set of 5 in case I break one?
 
Harlard said:
Unfortunately no, but those are definitely a dream wheel. Thinking of scraping pennies and getting some 17 (or18)x9? F40 style wheels. Image and Augument both make extremely high quality stuff. Might need to get a set of 5 in case I break one?
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I support this in good taste, but I un-support it because I want to beat you to it and feel original (but its nowhere in the budget)
 
Got it running. Then broke it again.

5Oejojyh.jpg
 
Easy to apply excessive belt tension with the VW type of tensioners. When I replaced the belt on my 924 long ago. I made the belt too tight and it was screaming. Even the cam was making a sound.

I used VWs belt tension recommendation which was to turn the belt 90 degrees. I thought it had to be hard to turn but they want it rather easy to turn to check tension.
 
What a mess.. 2 things from my experience.. The thing with overtightening the belt is a bit a miracle.. It is just a bit while tightening and then you need to turn the engine over two times to check tension.. I ****ed 2 bearings with an overtightened belt and you will hear the bearings scream and get very hot if it's too tight.. Also I had to machine down the yoshifab tensioner plate one millimeter to make the belt run in the middle of the tensioner pulley cause mine started also to eat out the belts rim..
 
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dl242gt said:
Easy to apply excessive belt tension with the VW type of tensioners. When I replaced the belt on my 924 long ago. I made the belt too tight and it was screaming. Even the cam was making a sound.

I used VWs belt tension recommendation which was to turn the belt 90 degrees. I thought it had to be hard to turn but they want it rather easy to turn to check tension.
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MadDog_945 said:
What a mess.. 2 things from my experience.. The thing with overtightening the belt is a bit a miracle.. It is just a bit while tightening and then you need to turn the engine over two times to check tension.. I ****ed 2 bearings with an overtightened belt and you will hear the bearings scream and get very hot if it's too tight.. Also I had to machine down the yoshifab tensioner plate one millimeter to make the belt run in the middle of the tensioner pulley cause mine started also to eat out the belts rim..
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Missed your replies.

So far there has been zero damage to the belt itself with the tensioner barely tensioned. Guess the spring-loaded mechanism doesn't do much.

To wit, I do not like the way the belt rides at the moment. Machining down the tensioner side 1mm seems like a good idea. I'll have that done the next time the engine is apart.
 
Fixed the timing belt issues for good, by not paying attention to the spring-loaded tensioner alignment marks. Put a new timing gear in.

It still smoked after sustained boost, so the turbo came off. Then noticed that the adapter to bellhousing bolts on the trans got loose, so the transmission came off for inspection. Possible culprit was identified as aftermarket bearing retainer fouling on V-Performance adapter plate. Some very rough die grinder action seems to have resolved it.

Then the new baby, as it turns out, requires round-the-clock care. So the car has been sitting in a partly disassembled state since June. While sitting on the couch in my new job and new baby stupor, a Tilton concentric slave type release bearing showed up at my door. Looks like the clutch pedal is gonna get smoother, at least. On the con list, the do-do list has gotten significantly larger than it lready was at the beginning of the year:

[]Replace bellhousing bolt at starter (fouls on firewall)
[]Install replacement turbo
[]Swap in v2 QSRC
[]Install coilover tender springs
[]Apply Loctite to pillow ball bearing shell in BNE Comfort strut mount
[]Swap brake fluid reservoir (leaking at o-ring)
[]Relocate shock mount on rear control arm; add reinforcement
[]Relocate torque rod mounts on axle (back and down a bit
[]Move rear axle forward 1/4"
[]Build new turbo oil drain
[]Replace front pads and rotors
[]Install Tilton throwout bearing
[x]Glue shifter foam pill back together
[x]Trans output shaft seal
[x]Clearance trans tunnel for big dampened yoke
 
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