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(probably not) cheaper than therapy: getting a 1967 122s back on the road

Just saw this thread… Good on you for trying to save another one. They’re so much fun to work on. Just got my second one all squared away under the hood and plumbed the depths of understanding SU carbs. They’re a little weird but actually really simple and elegant.
Good luck with it!
 
Nearly driving through I fence is better than it rolling down hill through a fence, congrats on the first test drive.

The picture/video on post #14 does not show up for me, not sure if others are seeing the same thing
-edit- Only doesn't show up on mobile, I can see it on my laptop. I agree with the lady, get some new motor mounts before that poor thing tries to spin it's way out of the engine bay.
The lady has said she's not going for a ride in the car unless they're replaced, so I've got new mounts sitting in a cart while I try to decide whether to go with rubber or poly bushings for the suspension and such. I'm sure they need replacing and I'd rather have everything come in at once.
You should 100% bring this to Mountain Meet this year. I'm from the Perry Hall MD area originally and there are a few MD guys who make their way down every year.
I'm gonna try and have my amazon wagon ready to go for the trip from MI to NC.
Small world! I'm not far from there myself. Car notwithstanding it's a tricky time of year for me to take off from work, but I'm going to do my best to make it down there for some of it. Plus my sister lives not too far away and it'd be good to pay her a visit.
 
Definitely go with poly over rubber bushings, even with poly it will never be as stiff as a something more modern and you'll only have to replace them once that way.
 
Small updates! While waiting for my friend's shop space to be available, I've kept busy buying parts I don't need. A set of Weber dcoes, cheap "patriot" exhaust manifold, and most excitingly....
Someone sent this poor abused p1800 to the yard near me. We never see anything this old so I jumped at the chance. When I got there someone had cut out the firewall and trans tunnel, so getting at the m41 was stupidly simple.
Needs one hell of a bath but it spins and shifts pretty clean. Didn't expect to have the chance to put one of these in this soon, but the possibility of overdrive and a floor shifter has me very excited.
 
That's effing awesome.

Give it a good wash, then pull the drain plug and see if there's any metallic "fuzz" on the magnet.

Put + 12v to the solenoid wire and ground the case and listen for a click/clunk.

Did you get the front driveshaft half and the u-bolts for the u-joints?
 
Holy shit! Was that at Mt. Airy?
Good eye! Not a location I visit that often but I got a tip the car was there. They had a bunch of weird things, including a really nice old wrangler that was halfway through a Chevy 350 swap. I'll have to visit more frequently.
That's effing awesome.

Give it a good wash, then pull the drain plug and see if there's any metallic "fuzz" on the magnet.

Put + 12v to the solenoid wire and ground the case and listen for a click/clunk.

Did you get the front driveshaft half and the u-bolts for the u-joints?
Thanks for the tips! The overdrive grounds to the case itself? Or does it have a ground wire?

As for the driveshaft, unfortunately the floor of the car was flat on the ground. The front floor and frame were so rusted that when the yard had set it down on their makeshift jack stands, the front gave out and they traveled up into the interior. We burned through one of our hacksaw batteries trying to peel up the floor and failed to bribe the skid steer guy into lifting the thing before cutting the section of front driveshaft that was visible. There's a solid local driveshaft shop I've used in the past, I figure I can take my amazon driveshaft and the bit I cut off and have them make something useable.
 
Hello,

You were going to have to modify a front driveshaft half anyway due to the different center support on your car if it's truly a 1967, so cutting is no great loss although it would've helped as the length was correct and that length is different when the round flange is used.

Most importantly, did you get the u-bolts? You'll need those to use the rear flange on that early D overdrive. The later D overdrives get a different rear flange that uses 4 bolts instead of the 2 u-bolts.
 
Hello,

You were going to have to modify a front driveshaft half anyway due to the different center support on your car if it's truly a 1967, so cutting is no great loss although it would've helped as the length was correct and that length is different when the round flange is used.

Most importantly, did you get the u-bolts? You'll need those to use the rear flange on that early D overdrive. The later D overdrives get a different rear flange that uses 4 bolts instead of the 2 u-bolts.
Cutting was my last resort, I was really hoping I wasn't shooting myself in the foot. Happy to hear that's not the case. James is correct, I took the whole rear flange so I have those u-bolts. I left everything attached so the yard wouldn't try to charge me separately for a yoke. I miss the independent yards that understood having you pull your own parts means things should be cheaper than the highest "buy it now" ebay listing you can find.
 
Gave the m41 a bath, checked the drain plug and tested the overdrive solenoid. The solenoid gave a strong click, so I'm very excited that it appears to be working. The drain plug doesn't seem too bad either but I'll look to the hive mind for final approval. Still a little crusty but not bad for a dinky electric power washer and some dish soap.


Oh, and bonus dcoe picture because the manifold arrived today. The casting seems a bit dubious but for the price I'm not gonna complain.

 
That would be great! I’ve go a design for an efi upgrade using a dcoe base manifold, also a replacement for the cast with integrated injector holders. Just want to dial it into a more marketable product
I can't find my calipers, but by a reliable tape measure it's 3.75 inches from head flange to carb flange
 
Quick and dirty dcoe efi manifolds, dirty extensions to mimic dcoe runner length, sheet-y metal plenum, Ross Racing single throttle body adapter…
I'm drooling, is this a personal project or something you intend to sell? I have at least one friend that I know would run that
 
I'm drooling, is this a personal project or something you intend to sell? I have at least one friend that I know would run that
BOTH! With my new shop set up, 2 more new CNC mills on their way in june, 3 additional in september, and a couple free months this summer I plan to start making some of these things. I'll have 4 variants for B20 manifolds, everything from a u-weld-it kit, to full billet bolt on, and add on for dcoe's and possibly SU's. Also going to offer b20 injector holders for modern injectors with a b20 specific rail and standoffs, brake parts for the forgotten round fender things, and if my design works out, short throw shifters for t5/txk manuals.
 
Small updates! While waiting for my friend's shop space to be available, I've kept busy buying parts I don't need. A set of Weber dcoes, cheap "patriot" exhaust manifold, and most excitingly....
Someone sent this poor abused p1800 to the yard near me. We never see anything this old so I jumped at the chance. When I got there someone had cut out the firewall and trans tunnel, so getting at the m41 was stupidly simple.
Needs one hell of a bath but it spins and shifts pretty clean. Didn't expect to have the chance to put one of these in this soon, but the possibility of overdrive and a floor shifter has me very excited.
Nice to see another 122 saved. I just bought a full set of gaskets to do my m41 and Jtype OD. The Jtype OD brings the R's down to a nice level. Totally worth it.
 
Teardown has finally begun, and oh boy. We started by removing the fenders and I have no clue what was actually holding them on the car.

I knew the fender wings needed to be replaced and have new ones ready to go in, but I'm still shocked at the extent of the damage. Unfortunately the damage also spread to the kick panels, with the driver's side taking the heavier hit. We'll cut that back and fab up a little replacement. The passenger side should be good with some patches.

We intended to pull the engine and transmission as well but ran out of time. A buddy of mine is convinced we can pull them both out as one unit but I'm less sure. Guess we'll see. One it does get out, the floor will follow and then we can start adding some steel back in.

This car is in much, much worse shape than I initially thought and I'd be lying if I said I wasn't a little discouraged. If I were to be honest with myself this should really be a parts car, and even then it wouldn't have all that much to give. But at the risk of sounding dramatic, I can't bring myself to end this car's story here. This little thing deserves a second chance.

After all, Old Volvos never die, right?
 
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