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R32rennsport's Amazon Thread

R32RennSport

R32RennSport

Outlaw Amazonian
Joined
Nov 20, 2011
Location
Atascadero, CA
R32rennsport's 1966 Amazon Thread

Well it's long over due that I post up here, believe me I've attempted to start this thread many times and have been sidelined many times. I have mainly posted over at Swedespeed but after becoming reacquainted with Turbobricks again I think I should share over here as well, after all this car originally came from this forum many years ago via 122power.

That's where this story starts nearly 7 years ago. Pointed in this direction from my service writer at the time who had a 240 wagon, as I was in need of an old car in my life. I picked up this respectable 1966 2 door Amazon from forum member 122power never having owned a Volvo before let alone a vintage one. I believe it was a rescue for him as he already had a very nice 122S parked in his garage already, he will chime in here I'm sure. From what I gathered the car had sat in a side yard for many years, had a cheap respray at some point and had some moderate rust in a few areas. Alas, it was in one color, was 99% complete, drove, stopped and was registered. Oh yeah, and it was a great deal!









The first few years with the car were spent learning it's quirks and Volvo's in general, fixing and replacing tired components, making due with what was working but mainly just enjoying it for what it was. I bought the car about the same time my wife and I started dating and in 2012 we got hitched and used the car as our honeymoon car, driving it over 800 miles round trip. Eventually I ended up putting some sport springs and shocks on it and picked up some widened steel rims.









The Amazon largely remained this way for a couple of years as the car was lightly driven. Then at some point along the way the engine, the stock B18, started consuming coolant and overheating consistently. I would limp it to various events and around town for the next year or two knowing that eventually I'd have to do something about it. Then I had my first daughter. Around that time I made the totally rookie mistake of completely disassembling the car for an overhaul :roll: Fast forwarded two more years, here I am with yet another daughter still trying to put my Amazon back together in a semi respectable fashion.





Family life has settled down in the last 6 months and I can honestly say I've made more progress on this car in the last 6 months then I have in past 6 years. I infamously call this my rattle can restoration as everything I touch ends up getting blasted and painted in Rustoleum, seriously, I should buy stock in the company. When possibly, I replace the hardware with new and anything rubber if it's available. Complete overhaul on the front and rear clips, underbody, interior, rebuilt M41 with driveline and a minty fresh big bore B20. Many small sub assemblies have been gone through and freshened up as well (steering box, heater box, bumpers, fuel system, etc.). Basically everything short of having the car resprayed which is out of my time and financial budgets. I figure if I still own the car in 20 years I'll consider it. I've taken care of structural rust along the way as well as modifying the trans tunnel for a P1800 remote shifter.

I'll continue to post pictures as I go along and also some of my previous efforts over the past year. I really wanted this to come together this fall but as usual with most builds I'm more optimistic then reality will afford me. Hope you enjoy following along and as always I love good constructive criticism.
 
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Ahhh yes this car. I regret selling it a little but it found a good home for sure. This car was at rusty's RPR in albany, CA for some time. He was closing his parts store and I saw it out back and threw him an offer and that's how I ended up with it. Black with red interior which is a real nice combo.
Good job on all the work you've done on it!
 
what cam you're going to run with the 45s (?)
also thats a lot of massaging on that fender. wheel still fit ?


if you decide to sell your front grill panel I would be interested
 
I think have bought and sold 5 Amazons since you bought yours but what you have done with yours continues to inspire me. Glad you're making progress on it again, it will be amazing I'm sure.

I know you told me already, but why was the passenger area of the engine bay hammered out ? Were you thinking white block and ITB's ? Are you still looking at dual Webers ?
 
Thanks everyone for the kind words. I really apologize for the delay in response, I have been locked out of my account since my first post but it looks like the admins got things sorted out as I could finally type this response today.

To answer a few questions:

Yes, plenty of room to spare for tire movement. I did a dry articulation run without shock or spring on that side, you'd be surprised how much room is in there!

I'm running a 1974 B20 8 bolt crank engine with IPD big bore kit making it approx. a 2130CC displacement engine. I'll be running 45 DCOE's on VCS replica long runner manifolds. The intake manifolds coupled with longer velocity stacks necessitated the need for more room on that side.
 
Making some progress in multiple areas. Did some metal work and paint on the early nose piece and got that assembled and mocked up on the car... now I think I'll have to blend into the fenders because the new paint looks so nice, oops.

 
Rebuilt the rear brake proportioning valve, boy was that thing full of muck, ick!!!

Mocked up the engine, trans and subframe to check for header clearance and a few other assembly items.





 
Here's a few goodies I've collected along the way...


Not sure if I'm going to leave these be color wise or have them powdercoated something fancy. I'm keeping the widened steel wheels for daily use but I wanted something stronger for autocross and rally days.

15x7 American Racing VN 309 -6mm offset, 3.7 inch backspacing (average $99 each all day long on the interwebs)



Earlier this year I was doing some research on aftermarket steering wheels and after a bunch of leg work I found out some cool stuff that our cars have in common with early jeeps besides front differentials. Here's an excerpt from an article I wrote over on Swedespeed:
I've been researching for quite some time on an alternative to the reproduction 123GT steering wheel that would do my Amazon justice. I love the look but not the cost so much of the original, reproduction or not. The first part will probably interest many of you and perhaps some will be interested in the rest.

After digging and digging in the far reaches of the internet I learned that our Amazon steering column (1966) shares the same spline as a 1955-1975 C5/CJ5 Jeep. Do I have your attention? Well in comes adapter kit number 4405 from Grant Steering Wheels. You can now fit any aftermarket steering wheel with the universal 3 bolt arrangement.

Now I remember from back in my aircooled Volkswagen days that nearly every aftermarket steering wheel in the parts catalogs were offered in this adapter bolt pattern. Specifically a company called Flat 4 imported by EMPI had a premium, very stylish and simple 3 spoke steering wheel that was close to original diameter and looked very similar to a GT steering wheel. It was offered in a 15 1/2 (400mm) rim with polished aluminium spokes with a medium dish and was in fact labeled as their GTV steering wheel. Adapter with horn boss is also polished and includes the Flat Four GTV logo. Part number I-180, boss kit fitting early beetles. You'll only need the top half of the boss kit, though if you'd like to adjust spacing you could cut the bottom half to use as a spacer.

Ok, let's talk cost. A reproduction steering 123GT wheel without reproduction horn button is around $800. The real deal, north of $1k I'd imagine. A basic Grant 4405 adapter kit through Summit racing is around $30. The I-180 GTV steering wheel through CPI1.com is a smoking deal at $270 plus $90 for boss kit. (and if this isn't to your taste there are plenty of other classic and modern styles available in this pattern).

For half the price of a reproduction 123GT wheel you get something very smart looking that's also very comparable. It's roughly the same size as a stock wheel so no increased effort required. If you don't like the polished aluminium look brush it with some Scotch brite. Dont like the horn button? It's a sticker so fit your own.

UPDATE: On a side note for everyone, I test fitted this yesterday and it will definitely need a spacer. Even with the dish in the wheel it's a good inch less then a factory wheel and my knuckles almost touch the signal stalk. A good 2-3 spacer will probably make it just right which can be made from the supplied boss kit lower section buy anyone that knows how to use a lathe.
Click to expand...

 
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