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Regina or Bosch TPS

Smokey77

Member
Joined
Jun 9, 2024
Location
Goodyear Arizona
I am thinking about replacing the TPS on my 92 940 regina along with several other sensors. I can only find a TPS for bosch cars. From what I have been told, the one from the Bosch car will work, "to an extent" does anyone have a reason as to why it will work to an extent? Is there any difference?
 
I am thinking about replacing the TPS on my 92 940 regina along with several other sensors. I can only find a TPS for bosch cars. From what I have been told, the one from the Bosch car will work, "to an extent" does anyone have a reason as to why it will work to an extent? Is there any difference?

Should be part # 3517068
It only fits a few other cars.
See this page (click "Fitment Guide" at the bottom):
Okay... more than "a few".
 
Should be part # 3517068
It only fits a few other cars.
See this page (click "Fitment Guide" at the bottom):
Okay... more than "a few".
Awesome! I am still confused about how the LH Bosch one works "to an extent" on Regina Rex cars.
 
I have not looked at a Bosch LH 2.4 diagram, but a ground signal is used in Regina...item 198. Not my handwriting below, some Volvo mechanic.
Screenshot 2024-07-10 204708.jpg
 
With what little information I can find from the recent Regina discussions on TB (is it Regina month or something?) the difference seems to be that LH doesn't use the full throttle switch. So a LH TPS, correctly wired, would work for idle detection but doesn't properly signal full throttle.

 
1993-240 diagram below...Both Regina/LH use a ground signal, so if the ground is on the same pin, then no issue.
View attachment 27896
It would be fairly easy to re-arrange the wiring as well if needed. Just get a multimeter, determine which pin is shorted to ground in each position. Cut, splice and heatshrink wires appropriately.

If the 2.4 TPS has a WOT switch as well then it should be totally interchangeable with the Regina function. Maybe it's being mixed up with the 2.2 switch in discussions?
 
Maybe it's being mixed up with the 2.2 switch in discussions?
OEM/Bosch do change part numbers for various reasons, but same ground signal operation below. Either someone screwed the pooch, or grounding terminal changed on connector if three wires are used.
Screenshot 2024-07-11 200700.jpg
 
The Throttle Position Sensors for LH2.2, LH2.4, and Regina are all very similar. All contain 2 switches, one that's closed at idle and one that's closed at WOT. For all of them, the idle position is adjustable by rotating the TPS. The WOT position is fixed relative to the idle position and is not separately adjustable.

The only thing that I can think of that would be different between LH2.4 and Regina would be where WOT is triggered.

Instead of trying to find a new Regina TPS, why don't you just test that it's working OK? You could unplug the TPS and measure at the pins, but it's hard to get to. Instead, measuring at the ECU is easier and also verifies the wiring harness:

- with key off unplug the ECU

- measure the resistance to chassis ground of ECU connector pin 2 (Idle). It should be ~0 ohms with foot off the gas, and open circuit (or high resistance) as soon as you push the gas pedal just a little bit. [Since the idle signal also goes to the Rex box, and that box isn't unplugged, there may be some remaining resistance to ground through the Rex box when the idle switch is opened.]

- measure the resistance to chassis ground of ECU connector pin 3 (WOT). It should be open circuit until you reach WOT from pressing the gas pedal, and then ~0 ohms at WOT and beyond.

- note: only touch the pins lightly with the meter probe. If you shove the probe into the connector, you'll damage the pins.
 
The only thing that I can think of
I assume throttle-shaft's degrees of rotation is the same on LH/Regina, if not, there should be different part numbers for throttle body.

When scanning part numbers for 240, these two numbers for TPS upto 1993.
3517068
1306938 (used before 1985 I assume).

Unless someone can come up with the Regina TPS part number, I think this thread is a bumstear. 3517068 TPS was used on many different Volvo engines.
 
I assume throttle-shaft's degrees of rotation is the same on LH/Regina, if not, there should be different part numbers for throttle body.

When scanning part numbers for 240, these two numbers for TPS upto 1993.
3517068
1306938 (used before 1985 I assume).

Unless someone can come up with the Regina TPS part number, I think this thread is a bumstear. 3517068 TPS was used on many different Volvo engines.
No 240 had Regina.
 
Unless someone can come up with the Regina TPS part number, I think this thread is a bumstear. 3517068 TPS was used on many different Volvo engines.
The part number for a Regina TPS is 9135839 (updated from 1389558). The parts catalog says it's made by VDO. GCP says it's NLA.
 
@Smokey77 - can you provide a summary of where you are with your car and what issue(s) you're still chasing? And in the future, it's best to keep everything in one thread until the issue is resolved.

From your previous threads over the last month, it's not clear if anything's actually been fixed:
 
The part number for a Regina TPS is 9135839 (updated from 1389558). The parts catalog says it's made by VDO. GCP says it's NLA.
Volvo says neither LH/Regina TPSs are available.

But, over at Brickboard...

Dear Fellow Brickboarders,

Hope you're well. Can Bosch-marked throttle position sensors (Volvo #3517068; Bosch #0 280 120 325) interchange with a VDO throttle position sensor (Volvo #9135839) used in cars with Rex-Regina engine/ignition management?
...
...
For a Bosch switch, hold the throttle plate closed, turn the switch counter-clockwise until it clicks then continue to the end of travel and lock in place.

For a VDO switch, insert a .010" feeler gauge at the idle stop screw (if you don't have a suitable feeler gauge substitute two strips of medium heavy bond 24 lb. computer paper), turn the switch slowly counter-clockwise until the click is heard then lock in place."

 
I think this is a hacked account with an AI controlling it, just like the b20 fuel injection/weber carb a few months back. Unless people knew that user and he was like that before
 
@Smokey77 - can you provide a summary of where you are with your car and what issue(s) you're still chasing? And in the future, it's best to keep everything in one thread until the issue is resolved.

From your previous threads over the last month, it's not clear if anything's actually been fixed:
I am completely sorry for that. I just am used to creating separate threads for separate questions. I just like to have things organized separately for my own reasons. I find it way easier to talk about one specific item and what it does and what happens when it fails, rather than putting it all into a massive pile and trying to figure out what is wrong from one issue.

So! Brand new 02 sensor with induction service (aka a can of seafoam in the intake and fuel tank) adjusted my idle into spec BUT with higher rpm by adjusting the screw and re adjusting the idle arm and TPS, mostly to prevent stalling. Now the car runs just as before just higher idle. Massively reduced CO emissions. (I got this test before I decided to make any more replies. Went from 70 down to About 13. Requirement is 12 HC was one number over limit, and NOX got worse by 5 times so despite passing NOX last time, I failed on all three this time) my theory is that running rich allowed it to burn cooler which then reduced NOX levels. Now that it is closer to stoich, nox levels are higher.

Replaced Cat, runs smoother when stopped/idle. Old cat turned out to be hollow. Whoever did that and why? I have no clue. HC levels more than halved, pass. CO levels more than halved, passed. NOX levels halved, but failed by LITERALLY 0.03. I am going to toss more octane booster in to hopefully reduce combustion temp a bit, but it will most likely pass even as is.

Initial start (doesn't matter if warm or cold) idle is low until I tap the throttle.

Tapping throttle now that the ECU has relearned, still results in a slight bog after the RPM already raises from tapping the gas. Although I haven't tried this after replacing the Cat.

For how it runs. (WITH AC ON) When cold, idles around 1000RPM. When warm Revs up to about 2000 rpm and drops to about 500 and then makes its way back to 800 or 900rpm. Take it out of drive after driving a bit. (Neutral or park) will sit at 1500rpm and slowly go back to 800-900 rpm.

AC off. Park or neutral. When cold. Revs up to 2000RPM then drops down to 1000 over and over again. When warm, same thing but less often. I have the AC on all the time so it is hard to say what exactly, it is fricken hot here, 117°F when I just came from Canada in a -40° winter!

Driving. When pulling to a stop sometimes the idle dues down to about 500 rpm, a little choppy, and when accelerating right after, suuuuper slow. If I pull to a stop and wait a bit longer, idle usually returns to normal, and acceleration is better. Overall, very low acceleration to about 4000 ish RPM. I drive by ear rather than looking at the gauge itself, but from when I do look, it is usually between 3000 and 4000 RPM. And it gets gradually better once up in the RPM. When shifting into the next gear, as long as I don't let off and let it up shift into overdrive, I maintain that power. So shifting stays within the powerband clearly. And I love revving up high in the RPM's, but normally I go up to 5000-6500 in any car I drive unless it has a lower red line, or if it doesn't seem reasonable to.

Shifting. Hard shifting when cold, very hesitant to shift when using low to medium throttle, letting off a bit does help it shift sooner, and foot to the floor will obviously shift at a high RPM anyways. But it will not reach red line unless I hold it in a gear. Which seems normal.

Edit: I haven't found time to use the diag box still. I do have the feeling that the wire to the idle side of the TPS sensor is cut, but I need to test with my multimeter. My Mr2 had a short out in the wire harness somewhere, the volvo didn't drive without stalling until a couple of days ago, and I haven't had any time after work to do anything else. Just been a whole mess in my life making it hard to get this fixed. Which only makes it harder.
 
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I think this is a hacked account with an AI controlling it, just like the b20 fuel injection/weber carb a few months back. Unless people knew that user and he was like that before
No I just like to have everything seperate. I like to understand how one thing works and how it plays in adjusting fuel map, idle, etc, and see later how they are affecting each other. Rather than trying to diagnose things from one big mashup of problems.
 
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