Resources for b2320ft rebuild

[Scoobert]

Hello, I just finished gathering some essential aftermarket internals and finished disassembling 2 b230ft engines, and was wondering if there were any good resources out there for an engine rebuild. It has been hard locating shop manuals for the engine, and I was hoping to find some sort of step by step for reassembling the engine. I was also wondering if there were any parts lists for rebuilds, just because its hard finding each individual seal, gasket, bolt, sensor, washer, etc online. I've never rebuilt an engine before and am pretty overwhelmed, and I just need a little straightforward guidance to get myself with the proper tools and parts to get the project rolling. Any help is greatly appreciated and thank you in advance!

 

[hessam69]

You buy a complete elring head and crankcase gasket set which has everything in it.

 

[Khrrck]

What tools and equipment do you have on hand?

Why are you rebuilding the engine? (ie is there a known problem?)

Are you re-using as many parts as possible or are you planning to replace everything that you can?

 

[Scoobert]

What tools and equipment do you have on hand?

Why are you rebuilding the engine? (ie is there a known problem?)

Are you re-using as many parts as possible or are you planning to replace everything that you can?

I have all the tools necessary to disassemble the engine, basically a lot of sockets and wrenches, snap ring pliers, etc. I also have torque wrenches and a crank pulley holder. I am rebuilding the engine to eventually tune, im installing h beam rods, traum pistons, ipd cam, and possibly new valves and springs. Im hoping to replace most parts, just so I dont have any seals or gaskets fail when running high hp.

 

[dl242gt]

Try browsing the archive at OZVolvo.org. The green book for that engine should be there. Also Haynes manuals are helpful, too. Service manuals like a Haynes have step by step disassembly and reassembly.

 

[Khrrck]

A complete gasket set is a great start then. Probably bearings too. The transfer tube seals on the oil pump are a common cause of low oil pressure and should be replaced even if you have to order them separately. If you have more specific questions keep posting them and I'm sure people more knowledgeable than me will give you better answers - I just absorb this stuff from seeing other people talk about it for years...

I think the document you want is the Volvo greenbook for B230 which shows the original measurements and tolerances for the engine. That gives you measurements to compare your engine against to see how much it's worn over the years and what sort of machining operations need to be done to it. Hopefully your pistons will fit without having to sleeve. You can also give a copy to your machine shop for their reference if they don't have the numbers. I have a PDF copy from a k-jet.org torrent but it's missing a lot of the pages - I'll attach what I've got if the forum lets me...

In terms of which things you will want to modify from original spec and to how much, you may want to go to the performance section and read/ask around.

 

[Khrrck]

 

[bobxyz]

1) Are you working with a machine shop on the rebuild, or just replacing what you can with no machining?
2) I haven't seen an engine reconditioning greenbook for the B230's, but there's one available for the earlier B21/B23 engines that will be similar. Do a <Ctrl-F> search for "reconditioning" at ozvolvo.org/archive
3) If you're getting the block&head machined, do some searching here for "tight squish". If you go this route, you'll either need to do a trial assembly yourself followed by a block re-decking, or pay the shop for this.
4) You could tell the shop that you'd like to learn how to assemble an engine properly and if they'd be willing to teach you. Most shops offer longblock reassembly for nominal $, so they might? be willing to let you participate. Depends if the shop is slammed and doesn't have the time, or if they like the enthusiasm to learn and have the time to teach.
5) Make sure you keep the block sprayed with WD-40, or equivalent, while it's waiting for reassembly. Otherwise, you'll get surface rust.
6) I'd suggest sticking a piece of cardboard over the machined block deck until reassembly to prevent accidental damage -- while it's an iron surface, it's precision machined and all to easy to damage from dropped tools.
------------
Edit - I found the text of a post I made a couple years ago before it was lost:
I've rebuilt a few engines over the years but am far from an expert. That being said, here's some advice for reassembling the engine.

I'll assume that you have a good shop manual for torques, orientations, and assembly sequences. Bentley is great for the 240s and redblocks, but doesn't cover the 16V heads.

If you live in a humid area, make sure that the machined surfaces are always coated with a light spray of oil or WD-40 to prevent surface rust. Keep the parts in plastic bags to keep moisture out and and to keep dust/dirt off. Make sure your work area is as clean and dust free as possible. Next time you're at the machine shop, ask to see their engine assembly area for reference.

The top of the block and the bottom of the head are very precisely machined, especially if preped for a MLS head gasket. Do everything you can to protect the surfaces and not scratch them up. If you're going to paint the block, I'd put on a layer of masking tape as soon as you get it back from the shop. Taping on a layer of cardboard to the block and head would be good too. Aluminum and iron are soft compared to tool steel - it takes just one dropped wrench to damage the head/block and send you back to the machine shop for resurfacing and humiliation.

For assembly, you'll need a squirt can of engine oil (non-synthetic), some sort of engine assembly lube, and some special flat tappet cam lube. You'll also want a bottle of ZDDP oil additive for the break in run. The _ONLY_ place you should use RTV sealant is just a bit in the sharp corners of the valve cover gasket. Otherwise, the standard gaskets should seal fine on their own. If you just can't help yourself, you could use some Permatex Aviation Gasket Sealer #3 (gas/oil resistant, non-hardening). Generally, you should lightly oil bolts & bolt heads/washers before assembly.

You might want to use some medium Blue loctite on the main crankshaft bolt. I don't remember if there are any other bolts that should be loctited?

An air compressor and blowgun nozzle are nice for cleaning off any dust, and for drying out any solvent, just before lube and assembly. I'll use brake cleaner if the ventilation is good, or isopropyl alcohol if indoors. I normally use standard paper towels but the blue lint-free towels are better.

A basic metric thread chaser set link https://www.amazon.com/Lang-Tools-2584-15-Piece-Restorer/dp/B000XJ48V0
helps clean up any bolt/nut that doesn't go back together smoothly. For the head bolts, the normal chaser is too short. Instead, you can hacksaw a couple slots in the end of a scrap head bolt. Blow out any blind holes (like the head bolt holes) with compressed air before assembly.

If you want to double check the main and rod bearing clearances, you can get a strip of Plastigage. The main bearings are easy to check but it's a little difficult to torque down the rod bolts without moving the rod and smearing the Plastigage. Some of the other less precise clearances can be checked with a feeler gauge. To check the bore diameters requires a special $$$ bore gauge, and the skill to use it. A cheap dial indicator and stand are good for checking piston protrusion, and a basic micrometer is used to check the cam shim thickness (not with hydraulic lifters).

There are a couple alignment sleeves that go into the top of the block. They're removed during machining. To re-install, you can initially align them with big drill bit, then use a wooden block to carefully tap the sleeves into place.

When assembling the pistons and rods, the wrist pins have an extremely close fit but should slide in and out with [strong] thumb pressure. If not, a heat gun may help. Never ever use force or a hammer, or you risk permanently galling the surface, leading to eventual rod/piston failure. If you have problems, stop and take the parts back to the machine shop for expert assistance.

I'd check with your piston supplier to find out if the rings are pre-gaped correctly for your application. If so, I'd leave them in place, without checking the gaps, instead of risking breaking one during R&R.

I think your aftermarket rods have bolts, instead of studs and nuts. If they have studs, cut a couple 8" pieces of rubber hose and put those over the studs to guide the rod end to the crank without risk of scratching the bearing surfaces. When installing the pistons, oil the piston/rings/compressor, and make sure your ring compressor is tight to the top of the block before pushing/tapping the piston into the block. Don't use force if the piston doesn't want to go in, or you may break a ring.

There's a metal tube that goes between the oil pump and the block. There have been numerous cases where the gaskets on this tube have come out, resulting in low, or no, oil pressure. Before assembling this tube, put a gasket on one end and fit just that end into the block. Mark how far the tube goes into the block. Repeat for the the oil pump end. Then, after clamping down the breather box drain, when you bolt in the oil pump and tube, you have references on each end to make sure that the tube is fully seated.

There are nice $$$ tools for installing the various shaft seals, or you can slowly and carefully go round and round tapping in each seal with a block of wood. Watch carefully when first sliding the seal over the shaft that the sealing lip goes on right and doesn't get turned over. For some of the seals, you can pick an installation depth so that the lip of the seal rides on a clean spot on the shaft.

After the engine is buttoned up, but before installing the timing belt, you can add a quart of oil and spin the aux shaft to prime the oil pump and prefill the oil passages. Stop when oil starts to pool by the cam lifters. You'll need a drill to spin the shaft, or a lot of stamina to crank it around by hand for long enough.

I'm sure there are lots more details and tips, but this should be a good start.

 

[Khrrck]

2) I haven't seen an engine reconditioning greenbook for the B230's, but there's one available for the earlier B21/B23 engines that will be similar. Do a <Ctrl-F> search for "reconditioning" at ozvolvo.org/archive

The k-jet.org dump (available in this post) also has a PDF of the B21/B23 book. It is too large to post here but it looks like it is complete (~60 pages). If OP can't figure out how to download the whole set they can PM me an email address and I can try sending it via email.

 

[Scoobert]

1) Are you working with a machine shop on the rebuild, or just replacing what you can with no machining?
2) I haven't seen an engine reconditioning greenbook for the B230's, but there's one available for the earlier B21/B23 engines that will be similar. Do a <Ctrl-F> search for "reconditioning" at ozvolvo.org/archive
3) If you're getting the block&head machined, do some searching here for "tight squish". If you go this route, you'll either need to do a trial assembly yourself followed by a block re-decking, or pay the shop for this.
4) You could tell the shop that you'd like to learn how to assemble an engine properly and if they'd be willing to teach you. Most shops offer longblock reassembly for nominal $, so they might? be willing to let you participate. Depends if the shop is slammed and doesn't have the time, or if they like the enthusiasm to learn and have the time to teach.
5) Make sure you keep the block sprayed with WD-40, or equivalent, while it's waiting for reassembly. Otherwise, you'll get surface rust.
6) I'd suggest sticking a piece of cardboard over the machined block deck until reassembly to prevent accidental damage -- while it's an iron surface, it's precision machined and all to easy to damage from dropped tools.

Super helpful, great call on the wd40, i have it chilling in my room so its not very humid, but still, that could've sucked if I let it rust. I am working with a machine shop, so I did end up getting a 0.5 overbore because my donor block was in horrible condition, as well as polishing and cleaning aux shaft and crank, and boiling my block clean. I am also going to have them resurface my head depending on its condition but it honestly looks brand new. Just saved the post you sent me, and I actually have a machine shop that might let me shadow for the day, thank you for bringing that up. By the way, torque spec wise, is the b230ft going to be the same as a b23? Thank you!

 

[Scoobert]

The k-jet.org dump (available in this post) also has a PDF of the B21/B23 book. It is too large to post here but it looks like it is complete (~60 pages). If OP can't figure out how to download the whole set they can PM me an email address and I can try sending it via email.

I appreciate it, it was a little confusing but its currently downloading, I appreciate the help tho!

 

[Khrrck]

The B230 book is in the 700-series section. B21/B23 book is in the 200 series section under Engine. I think the torques are likely different but the B230 book has at least some of the critical ones listed.

 

[Scoobert]

1) Are you working with a machine shop on the rebuild, or just replacing what you can with no machining?
2) I haven't seen an engine reconditioning greenbook for the B230's, but there's one available for the earlier B21/B23 engines that will be similar. Do a <Ctrl-F> search for "reconditioning" at ozvolvo.org/archive
3) If you're getting the block&head machined, do some searching here for "tight squish". If you go this route, you'll either need to do a trial assembly yourself followed by a block re-decking, or pay the shop for this.
4) You could tell the shop that you'd like to learn how to assemble an engine properly and if they'd be willing to teach you. Most shops offer longblock reassembly for nominal $, so they might? be willing to let you participate. Depends if the shop is slammed and doesn't have the time, or if they like the enthusiasm to learn and have the time to teach.
5) Make sure you keep the block sprayed with WD-40, or equivalent, while it's waiting for reassembly. Otherwise, you'll get surface rust.
6) I'd suggest sticking a piece of cardboard over the machined block deck until reassembly to prevent accidental damage -- while it's an iron surface, it's precision machined and all to easy to damage from dropped tools.
------------
Edit - I found the text of a post I made a couple years ago before it was lost:
I've rebuilt a few engines over the years but am far from an expert. That being said, here's some advice for reassembling the engine.

I'll assume that you have a good shop manual for torques, orientations, and assembly sequences. Bentley is great for the 240s and redblocks, but doesn't cover the 16V heads.

If you live in a humid area, make sure that the machined surfaces are always coated with a light spray of oil or WD-40 to prevent surface rust. Keep the parts in plastic bags to keep moisture out and and to keep dust/dirt off. Make sure your work area is as clean and dust free as possible. Next time you're at the machine shop, ask to see their engine assembly area for reference.

The top of the block and the bottom of the head are very precisely machined, especially if preped for a MLS head gasket. Do everything you can to protect the surfaces and not scratch them up. If you're going to paint the block, I'd put on a layer of masking tape as soon as you get it back from the shop. Taping on a layer of cardboard to the block and head would be good too. Aluminum and iron are soft compared to tool steel - it takes just one dropped wrench to damage the head/block and send you back to the machine shop for resurfacing and humiliation.

For assembly, you'll need a squirt can of engine oil (non-synthetic), some sort of engine assembly lube, and some special flat tappet cam lube. You'll also want a bottle of ZDDP oil additive for the break in run. The _ONLY_ place you should use RTV sealant is just a bit in the sharp corners of the valve cover gasket. Otherwise, the standard gaskets should seal fine on their own. If you just can't help yourself, you could use some Permatex Aviation Gasket Sealer #3 (gas/oil resistant, non-hardening). Generally, you should lightly oil bolts & bolt heads/washers before assembly.

You might want to use some medium Blue loctite on the main crankshaft bolt. I don't remember if there are any other bolts that should be loctited?

An air compressor and blowgun nozzle are nice for cleaning off any dust, and for drying out any solvent, just before lube and assembly. I'll use brake cleaner if the ventilation is good, or isopropyl alcohol if indoors. I normally use standard paper towels but the blue lint-free towels are better.

A basic metric thread chaser set link https://www.amazon.com/Lang-Tools-2584-15-Piece-Restorer/dp/B000XJ48V0
helps clean up any bolt/nut that doesn't go back together smoothly. For the head bolts, the normal chaser is too short. Instead, you can hacksaw a couple slots in the end of a scrap head bolt. Blow out any blind holes (like the head bolt holes) with compressed air before assembly.

If you want to double check the main and rod bearing clearances, you can get a strip of Plastigage. The main bearings are easy to check but it's a little difficult to torque down the rod bolts without moving the rod and smearing the Plastigage. Some of the other less precise clearances can be checked with a feeler gauge. To check the bore diameters requires a special $$$ bore gauge, and the skill to use it. A cheap dial indicator and stand are good for checking piston protrusion, and a basic micrometer is used to check the cam shim thickness (not with hydraulic lifters).

There are a couple alignment sleeves that go into the top of the block. They're removed during machining. To re-install, you can initially align them with big drill bit, then use a wooden block to carefully tap the sleeves into place.

When assembling the pistons and rods, the wrist pins have an extremely close fit but should slide in and out with [strong] thumb pressure. If not, a heat gun may help. Never ever use force or a hammer, or you risk permanently galling the surface, leading to eventual rod/piston failure. If you have problems, stop and take the parts back to the machine shop for expert assistance.

I'd check with your piston supplier to find out if the rings are pre-gaped correctly for your application. If so, I'd leave them in place, without checking the gaps, instead of risking breaking one during R&R.

I think your aftermarket rods have bolts, instead of studs and nuts. If they have studs, cut a couple 8" pieces of rubber hose and put those over the studs to guide the rod end to the crank without risk of scratching the bearing surfaces. When installing the pistons, oil the piston/rings/compressor, and make sure your ring compressor is tight to the top of the block before pushing/tapping the piston into the block. Don't use force if the piston doesn't want to go in, or you may break a ring.

There's a metal tube that goes between the oil pump and the block. There have been numerous cases where the gaskets on this tube have come out, resulting in low, or no, oil pressure. Before assembling this tube, put a gasket on one end and fit just that end into the block. Mark how far the tube goes into the block. Repeat for the the oil pump end. Then, after clamping down the breather box drain, when you bolt in the oil pump and tube, you have references on each end to make sure that the tube is fully seated.

There are nice $$$ tools for installing the various shaft seals, or you can slowly and carefully go round and round tapping in each seal with a block of wood. Watch carefully when first sliding the seal over the shaft that the sealing lip goes on right and doesn't get turned over. For some of the seals, you can pick an installation depth so that the lip of the seal rides on a clean spot on the shaft.

After the engine is buttoned up, but before installing the timing belt, you can add a quart of oil and spin the aux shaft to prime the oil pump and prefill the oil passages. Stop when oil starts to pool by the cam lifters. You'll need a drill to spin the shaft, or a lot of stamina to crank it around by hand for long enough.

I'm sure there are lots more details and tips, but this should be a good start.

Thank you, everything you’ve said is very useful! I’ve finally at the point where I can attempt the rebuild, and I was looking thru the engine reassembly section of the reconditioning book on the b23. I was wondering if I could follow this guide for proper installation and torque specs on my b230ft, or if I’m going to have to find another book with the proper torque specs. I’ve been overwhelmed for a while because I can’t really find a starting point, and have yet to stumble across an actual complete rebuild/reconditioning guide for the turbo blocks.

 

[bobxyz]

The Bentley 240 Service Manual should have all the B230 specs in the front of the manual. I know that some of the B21/B23 specs aren't correct for the B230's (like the head bolt tightening and maybe valve springs). The B230 reconditioning greenbook is TP30927, but I've never seen an online copy.