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Rigging up an M410 hydraulic clutch

Yes, just angle iron.
When I switched the slave cyl. around I also welded the pieces together.

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Got a pull type slave cylinder and the transmission in the same place today. This is the little cable stop that I need to contend with.


This is the way I could think of for using an external cylinder I am thinking I could use a delrin bushing in the cable stop. The question then becomes how to keep that bushing in place and whether to have it situated so the entire cylinder moves, or just the pull rod. It would probably be easier to do the latter. Or I just go find a suitable hydraulic release bearing.


Sort of like this. Making sure to have the threaded rod coming out the back side of the cylinder anchored to something like TR Conn's bracket. A nylon bushing would sit in the cable guide around the operating rod. I can see clearance being somewhat tight with the lower wishbone so I can't have something sticking out too far.

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Another update

I ended up fooling around with ideas this weekend and noticed that the person who drilled the bell housing to fit the hydraulic fork used a small spacer to make sure the clutch fork had the right positioning. I decided to try to replicate this without drilling into the bell housing and this is what I came up with. I used a thick chunk of aluminum and made a little bracket that piggy backs off the bearing seal retainer bolts in a manner similar to a hydraulic release bearing.



It seems to work. It doesn't flex and maintains the same about of throwout bearing travel as the cable fork and the M40/41 stock setup.

The bracket pins the head of the bolt holding the ball pivot for the fork against the bell housing. This means that when the fork is pushed by the slave cylinder the force is transferred to the bell housing and doesn't flex the bracket. At least in theory this means that the bracket only keeps everything in place.
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I ended up buying the Hiperfauto M400 for my Lemons PV and though I feel like I'm defacing the Mona Lisa I had to change the throwout to a fork type because the OE Volvo clutch is about 1 inch deeper. I swapped the bolts that held the Tilton release bearing for short bolts and rubber-backed steel washers and added a shouldered bolt through the cover/bell that is below the surface.

Thanks for the opportunity to get these cool parts back on the track.


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