Squirterizational mod RENTAL KIT for INCREASED PERFORMANCE

[mikep]

I posted in the OTHER thread that I have the kit. it is currently on loan but I NEED some ideas for rules and who to lend it out to

Should we stick the other thread and drop this one? I looked for it once but failed.

 

[badvlvo]

I posted in the OTHER thread that I have the kit. it is currently on loan but I NEED some ideas for rules and who to lend it out to

A deposit worth more than the cost of the tool, otherwise people pay the deposit and treat it as a purchase. Try 2x the cost.

 

[culberro]

A deposit worth more than the cost of the tool, otherwise people pay the deposit and treat it as a purchase. Try 2x the cost.

That or close to it.

I posted in the OTHER thread that I have the kit. it is currently on loan but I NEED some ideas for rules and who to lend it out to

Imma take inventory of the parts and put a BOM together for ya with links, maybe make some CAD files for the aluminum arm part and incorporate a spacer. Then everything can be easily replaced or replicated.

 

[bobxyz]

For ease of access, I've restored Redwood Chair's posts #566 and #639 below, copied off his photobucket pictures, and rehosted them here.

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Redwood Chair Post #566 :

I had to get a few more parts to complete the kits and make it easier to get good results.

An extension for the counterbore aka spot face cutter was needed so the drill chuck would clear the main journal.

The 8x1m tap needed a 1/4" by 6" socket extension, a tap handle, and two layers of 5mil plastic to take the extra slop out of the tap to extension fit, but loose enough to let the tap find it's way square into the bore.

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It's fun to do but you need to keep track of the steps, and take your time.

So on with the show...

In the interest of accuracy in the field the block was shimmed up level.



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The bushing fixture is set in the lathe drilled and tapped out main bolt.



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The Dewalt 106 drill has a ball level in the back of the handle so it is possible to drill fairly perpendicular freehand.



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Picking a spot @ a 1/4 drill bit width from the edge using medium pressure and nice and slow with the drill at only about 600rpm the cast iron cuts quickly and easily.



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The block wall into the oil gallery is about 3/8" or 8mm thick at this point, and the gallery is around 1/4" or 6mm wide, so be careful and let up when the sound changes and punching through is imminent.



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Next the counterbore is run at half speed or @1250rpm with light pressure to cut it flat, and then just a touch at full speed 2500 rpm to smooth the surface.





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Drill again..

The fixture is repositioned by wiggling the drill bit back and forth to find the center, and tightened in place.

Drilling the 7mm pilot hole for the tap is tricky as it tends to grab in the 1/4" hole.

Very very light feed pressure, half speed, and the chuck not so tight so the bit can spin in the chuck when it grabs instead of snapping the bit off.



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Now the hole is faced, piloted and ready to tap.



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The fixture is left in place and used as a guide during the threading operation.



--- continued in next post ---

 

[bobxyz]

--- continued from last post ---
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You'll feel the tap hit bottom and stop, don't push it and ruin the threads.



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The pointed tip of the tap is ground off to get the threads further down the bore all the way into the oil gallery.



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The finished product.



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Post #639

Redwood Chair:
Ok boys and girls, ladies and gentlemen, it seems we've hit another little bump in the production road, so I whittled down another custom 7mm pilot for the counterbore, and gathered up some more tools to build another long kit.






For the squirters - web search for: BMW Oil Spraying Nozzle 11111739907

 

[Jack]

i NEED to print that and laminate it to go with the kit

 

[rom]

hey. is it officially back? if so, put me on the list.

 

[bobxyz]

I've also restored John Vanlandingham's original post #1 from 2007, copied off the pictures, and rehosted them here.
Thanks @John V outside agitator - 17+ years of improving redblock performance worldwide!

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John V outside agitator Post #1 Oct 14, 2007:
OK it hurts my brain too much when I see certain things blurted out as "absolute must-do" things and then poor saps expending time and effort and extra money to find the supposed "perfect" thing.
The post 1991 B230 blocks with the squirters is one such thing.

As such I started a thread about making a LOANER KIT FOR THE TURBOBRICKS COMMUNITY which could be sent out to guys when its rebuild time so they could mod their blocks with just a simple drill---as long as it can chuck up 1/2" shank.

I thought it would be pretty simple and inexpensive to get the parts, but it was suggested that the kit should be a LOANER kit sent out against a stiff deposit--ie more than enough to cover the parts and the time to make the jig.

To those who may be interested. THIS KIT IS NOT FOR SALE.

Its done and its easy.
Took about 40 minutes cause it is a lot of swapping out of the drill bits.

The big deal is that you have to drill way down there in the block and you really need to be plumb or square and you have 4 operations per hole.
First thing is a faced off a FORD 2300 head bolt to have a square surface, then drilled and tapped it to M8

So snug the special FORD bolt.

Place the fixture on the FORD bolt and finger tighten the M8 bolt finger tight.

get the 1/4" drill bushing and place it in the jig, put the long 1/4" bit in your drill, stick it thru the bush and ease it down to the flat above the oil gallery.

Find a spot about half way from the cylinder to the block wall.



OIL the spot and drill with moderate pressure---it's IRON, you don't have to push too hard.
BE FAWKIN CAREFULL as you feel it start to break thru to the gallery. Ease up and speed up the drill speed.

Next, swing the fixture out of the way and put the spot face cutter in.
It's piloted with a 1/4 pilot so it will be guided in the hole.
IT WILL KISS THE OUT WALL OF THE BLOCK A BIT SO HOLD IT UP WHEN YOU PULL THE TRIGGER AND EASE IT DOWN. WHEN ITS ON THE FLAT SURFACE CONTROL THE DRILL SPEED AND PUSH DOWN AND KISS THE SURFACE TILL ITS A CLEAN SWEPT CIRCLE, NO MORE.



Now get the 1/4 bit and slide it back thru the jig and move it around so the drill goes thru the hole and isn't tweaked or bowed and then tighten the M8 bolt.

Next remove the 1/4 drill bush, replace it with the 7mm bush and drill thru the hole.

Now remove the jig, get the M8 x 1 tap and the 1/4 drive extension and carefully line it up and start the tap. OIL, and don't give it more than 2-2 1/2 turns without backing off a half turn.
Tap thru the hole but don't go all the way till the tap bottoms on the roof of the oil gallery.



Repeat.

The positions I chose were for easiest access. Cylinder 1 I did at the rear pad, cylinder 2 at the front pad, or each side of No2 Main, cylinder 3 I used read pad, cylinder 4 I used the front pad--or each side of No4 main.



Pretty easy, just take your time.



[Bob note: look carefully at the clearance between the crank counterweights and the squirters. On my B21FT, the squirters only cleared when installed on either side of the No2 and No4 mains as John describes above. Rough pic:
]

This is a good community, it's fun talking to you guys on the phone and see enthusiasm here I haven't seen as regularly in any of the other brands I deal with.

I'm happy I can do this as a sorta service to you guys who don't have easy access to a Bridgeport mill and I'm really glad that you poor bastids living where Volvos aren't filling the wrecking yards that you now don't have to dig and spend money looking for the elusive for you post '91 pre-quirterized blocks.

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From @culberro Posts #863, 864 - educated guess at installation torque is 12 ft-lbs for hollow M8

 

[Jack]

I've also restored John Vanlandingham's original post #1 from 2007, copied off the pictures, and rehosted them here.
Thanks @John V outside agitator - 17+ years of improving redblock performance worldwide!

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John V outside agitator Post #1 Oct 14, 2007:
OK it hurts my brain too much when I see certain things blurted out as "absolute must-do" things and then poor saps expending time and effort and extra money to find the supposed "perfect" thing.
The post 1991 B230 blocks with the squirters is one such thing.

As such I started a thread about making a LOANER KIT FOR THE TURBOBRICKS COMMUNITY which could be sent out to guys when its rebuild time so they could mod their blocks with just a simple drill---as long as it can chuck up 1/2" shank.

I thought it would be pretty simple and inexpensive to get the parts, but it was suggested that the kit should be a LOANER kit sent out against a stiff deposit--ie more than enough to cover the parts and the time to make the jig.

To those who may be interested. THIS KIT IS NOT FOR SALE.

Its done and its easy.
Took about 40 minutes cause it is a lot of swapping out of the drill bits.

The big deal is that you have to drill way down there in the block and you really need to be plumb or square and you have 4 operations per hole.
First thing is a faced off a FORD 2300 head bolt to have a square surface, then drilled and tapped it to M8

So snug the special FORD bolt.

Place the fixture on the FORD bolt and finger tighten the M8 bolt finger tight.
View attachment 30658
get the 1/4" drill bushing and place it in the jig, put the long 1/4" bit in your drill, stick it thru the bush and ease it down to the flat above the oil gallery.

Find a spot about half way from the cylinder to the block wall.

View attachment 30659

OIL the spot and drill with moderate pressure---it's IRON, you don't have to push too hard.
BE FAWKIN CAREFULL as you feel it start to break thru to the gallery. Ease up and speed up the drill speed.

Next, swing the fixture out of the way and put the spot face cutter in.
It's piloted with a 1/4 pilot so it will be guided in the hole.
IT WILL KISS THE OUT WALL OF THE BLOCK A BIT SO HOLD IT UP WHEN YOU PULL THE TRIGGER AND EASE IT DOWN. WHEN ITS ON THE FLAT SURFACE CONTROL THE DRILL SPEED AND PUSH DOWN AND KISS THE SURFACE TILL ITS A CLEAN SWEPT CIRCLE, NO MORE.

View attachment 30660

Now get the 1/4 bit and slide it back thru the jig and move it around so the drill goes thru the hole and isn't tweaked or bowed and then tighten the M8 bolt.

Next remove the 1/4 drill bush, replace it with the 7mm bush and drill thru the hole.

Now remove the jig, get the M8 x 1 tap and the 1/4 drive extension and carefully line it up and start the tap. OIL, and don't give it more than 2-2 1/2 turns without backing off a half turn.
Tap thru the hole but don't go all the way till the tap bottoms on the roof of the oil gallery.

View attachment 30661

Repeat.

The positions I chose were for easiest access. Cylinder 1 I did at the rear pad, cylinder 2 at the front pad, or each side of No2 Main, cylinder 3 I used read pad, cylinder 4 I used the front pad--or each side of No4 main.

View attachment 30662

Pretty easy, just take your time.

View attachment 30663

[Bob note: look carefully at the clearance between the crank counterweights and the squirters. On my B21FT, the squirters only cleared when installed on either side of the No2 and No4 mains as John describes above. Rough pic:
View attachment 30665 ]

This is a good community, it's fun talking to you guys on the phone and see enthusiasm here I haven't seen as regularly in any of the other brands I deal with.

I'm happy I can do this as a sorta service to you guys who don't have easy access to a Bridgeport mill and I'm really glad that you poor bastids living where Volvos aren't filling the wrecking yards that you now don't have to dig and spend money looking for the elusive for you post '91 pre-quirterized blocks.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From @culberro Posts #863, 864 - educated guess at installation torque is 12 ft-lbs for hollow M8

Damn dude do you work for CSI Boulder ?

 

[mikep]

Thank you to everyone contributing.