Swedbricks' 360 Rallycross project - 'Gebakje'

[Swedbrick]

Did you manage to sort new nuts for the GAZ front inserts.
On the clutch/flywheel is there a good option available https://www.classicswede.org/shop/360-turbo-flywheel-conversion-kit-with-clutch-240mm

Yes I contacted GAZ directly and they were able to set me up. Do you have 27mm sway bars in stock still? Looking to do some further work with PU on the suspension eventually, I also emailed you I believe

 

[classicswede]

I have a good few of the 27mm anti roll bars in. Might be worth resending that email. Make sure it is to dai@classicswede.co.uk

 

[Swedbrick]

I have a good few of the 27mm anti roll bars in. Might be worth resending that email. Make sure it is to dai@classicswede.co.uk

Email sent!

 

[Swedbrick]

Decided to get some more track worthy belts and deep dish wheel

And some budget friendly steel framed buckets for now

Got to stripping out the shell after fitting the wheel

Cut the cage I got into bits and started piecing together a half cage from the remainders

The rear shock towers will get tied in, and I might add an additional cross support and front bars to reinforce the main hoop

Next up stripping the sound deadening

Got a air hammer as a tip from Borrie, with my shed being at freezing temperatures, no need for dry ice

The front seat mounts came with M6 retainers and wouldn't be adaptable to the new M8 seat rails, so those got removed along with the sound deadening.

In the process I uncovered some rust in the wheel wells, and at every jacking point. Nothing that will be hard to fix however (foreshadowing).

In total the interior came in at 100kg, with an additional 26kg of sound deadening for the part that I didn't vacuum out, getting the car to an approximate 900kg. I'm aiming for 750-800kg, such that I'll be able to be competitive in the semipro class with around 200hp allowing me to keep the car N/A.

 

[Hodginsa]

FYI I just used a bunch of WD40 and a wirewheel to get the remaining residue off.

 

[Swedbrick]

FYI I just used a bunch of WD40 and a wirewheel to get the remaining residue off.

Thanks, I've been using thinner and a rag which works but slow, so I'll give that a try as well!

 

[Swedbrick]

Got some bathroom scales:

It appears I'll have to do some thinking on where I can drop more weight, underlined are weighted, the rest is an educated guess

 

[classicswede]

Clutch and flywheel you can save around 7kg converting to the flat flywheel.
Glass is heavy and big saving to be had changing to plexiglass

 

[Swedbrick]

That should help, I checked the side windows already, which were 20kg combined, with the rear that would be 10+kg in saving. The front is required to be glass by regulations.

As for the engine, a header and going with itb's and a small alternator and underdrive pulley will also help a bit hopefully icm the flywheel. It's all in the front so a double win. 25kg would be pushing it though.

Iirc you've adapted 200sx coilovers in the past right? The front struts weight 16kg each, and setting the rear up with coilovers and a 4 link should also cut some weight.

Getting it to sub 900kg would require more cutting and carbon however, so adding a turbo might be more economical. The kg8 camshaft claims up to 240hp, but I'm not sure I'm willing to spend on an 8v to get it there without power adders

 

[Swedbrick]

So with the interior stripped, time to start on the driveline given I'll wait for the weather to improve before doing the welding/painting

Got the transaxle in, which was quite a process, given the bellhousing didn't fit through the tunnel. Got it in the end though

The transmission brace requires these M10 bolts, which on my 340 chassis were not present, so some cutting was needed

Whilst under there I also got the old seatbelt mounts removed for the future 360 gas tank conversion

Got the engine in, also quite difficult, not a 2/7/9-series for sure, space is really tight, and I forgot to drop the subframe. I might just drop the entire drivetrain next time.

Given the engine was still on blocks, I looked towards the stock 360 engine mounts, which are hanging strangely. No straight lines exist on the framerails, and normally theaded holes would get a plate to the rubber mounts from the top.

Decided I hated this design, grabbed a set of old 740 mount with diesel rubbers. The old subframe already had mounts, so I moved those to work.

I also found this threaded hole nearby for a m10 retainer, so I added an additional brace. The frame was pretty rusted, so welding was pretty awful.

Pretty confident the new setup will work, and I have more space for activities now under the intake, which is nice. I can also switch to defender mounts and shim the engine around a bit if needed as well now. 360 mounts are NLA, so all good things

With the engine in place, time for some induction. Printed up these PLA prototype adapters, ordered fillamentum AF80 for the final print along with the lockpad, hopefully that will fare better than my previous Vinyl 303 attempt on the pcv system which cracked due to thermal expansion.

Got the GSXR 750 throttles mounted

Finally welded up the throttle shaft

Made backets for the fuel rail as well and painted it all

All mounted up, throttle cable bits are still underway. I'll modify the original to suit, given I have one with the end broken off

For those wondering, both fuel rail and filters are tight, but it just fits

Also got a new tool!

 

[Swedbrick]

Took a week off to get some progress in on this thing again

Bought a 13g after getting a cheap b230FT from a friend, should be perfect for 250hp with a billet wheel for a bit more push. The ITB's will go to a road car that is in the works, given I'd rather street tune that setup.

Broke a stud trying to get it on, but got it fitted after a fight drilling it out. Bought a kinugawa oil line kit from here to get that sorted, which should arrive soon

Tried two 240 throttle cables, one too long, one too short, so ended up making the longer one into a perfect fit for the injection intake

Got going on the rust repairs, starting off with the rust under the left front wing

The front side mount was completely gone, but the clip luckily was left hanging on for dear life

Also got this little section put in, it was pretty difficult to get a decent weld on

Got the left front jacking point rust cut out, turns out I had no gas anymore, probably didn't help whoops

So I proceeded to do the job I keep putting off, getting the floors scraped and cleaned with thinner

More updates at the end of this week!

 

[Swedbrick]

Got the sound deadening cleaning finished after 2 days of scraping and thinner

Permanized the transmission mount

Patched the left front jacking point, and deleted it all together (will move to pin stands eventually)

This was a complicated mess given several joints come together at this point

This side was also properly rotten on the top near the strut tower so patching commenced

Discovered a rusted section just at the end of that patch, so took the fender back off (20 bolts of fun)

The reinforcement rib of the strut also had to go, and was replaced (upside down welding so I opted not to grind these back)

Like I was never there (sort of), next up, right front jacking point!

 

[RichGT]

10/10 and go BBB

 

[Swedbrick]

Patched the right side floor, which was fortunately in a lot better condition

Also patched the second hole in the firewall, normally this is covered by a cover plate, but I'd rather have it fully closed off. This hole is only used for the earlier hvac system, so it can go.

Cut out the battery tray and coolant tank mount, given they were the last bit of misery in the bay. Will patch this once I figure out if the turbo will fit without cutting

Got the pizza box out to make the 120cm2 cage pedestals.

Did the same for the rear, although a patch was required on both sides.

Got the mounting plates in, these were a pain to weld in, soon figured out why.

Gave it a coating and finalized the rear pedestals as well.

 

[Swedbrick]

Swapped the hood for a lightened one I got with the 360 cup car and gave the car a wash.

Got the old cage cut up and cleaned up.

Forgot to document, but main hoop and cross.

Rear braces and harness bar.

Fits nice with the seats, so I can start making up mounts for those. I'll order some more 40mm tube to add door bars and the right harness bar as well as some additional bracing to firm up the main hoop.

Scored a fresh 13T CHRA so swapped that over and did some clocking

To suit the power I managed to score this rare M45R, which a friend used for drifting at 250hp for years. Need to figure out some sort of lsd deal instead. I know CS made a few torsens, now to find one or some alternative

 

[Swedbrick]

So I started mapping out the intercooler placement, a 550x230x65mm core will fit with a little clearance to the headlights. I'm planning to run 51mm tubes from the turbo to the intercooler and 63mm tubes straight from the cooler to the throttle body.

I decided I might want a bit more power now I have the gearbox to take it, my friend had this Maxspeeding T04E clone for very little money. I ended up selling this one to a team running at the time attack event, but a new one can be had for 150eu and I've heard good experiences from other volvo tuners in the Netherlands with these.

I found an old style b23 turbo manifold already drilled out and flattend for the T3 with M10 studs to test fit it. It was kind of bodged, so I'll rework it before permanent install. Turbo should just clear after relocating the wastegate actuator, and the IC tubing actually aligns nicely.

Somehow I ended up finding 2 more m45r gearboxes, one with the 360 front section with a broken welded differential and one with a open differential in good condition with the 340 front section. I'll be swapping the front section between those two to end up with a gearbox for drifting and a gearbox for time attack with the broken diff one getting shelved for parts. I had some discussion with people in the know, the welded one is definitively out for fast track driving.

Given more power means more torque, I got this Audi 228mm clutch disk with the volvo 360 spline, however turns out it was too thick. I ended up finding a good used sachs 033 turbo pressure plate with the round edges to clear the bell housing like the original 360 pressure plate. I'll use with the original 215mm 360 clutch of the right thickness, we will see if it holds, at least it will be a decent fuse for the gearbox if I go a bit overboard with the boost.

Got a second 360 specific sump, waterpump and oil pump for the turbo engine. Also figured out that I have a 13mm rod squirter block (whoo!)

Made a tool to swap out the valve springs with the rope trick, worked a treat:

I'll be running the RSI stage 3 camshaft with the 'less clamping pressure' double valve springs from KG trimning for around 500N of clamping pressure with their race retainers given it will probably see a lot of sustained RPM.

Also did the timing belt, the key was sheared off, so ended up grabbing a set of square tooth gears I had laying around

Fitted the sump and 360 specific short oil pump, if you do this, take note to move the drain hose to the right to clear the baffles in the sump

The usual suspect rubber hoses for the oil cooler were replaced along with a fresh oil cooler seal and filter. I'll keep the water cooling for now, the air cooled oil cooler will be put on once I have confirmed it's needed. Also put the kinugawa oil feed in to prep for the turbo change, currently the 18T from the red car is on there as placeholder, given it just received the 13T for some testing. Engine done! (for now)

I had some discussion on the cage which concluded that I want to re-do it. It will get force concentrators on the rear strut towers and I'll move the cross over a bit for more roll over strength. I'll also move the pedestals up a bit to allow for easy install of door bars, given the regulations are moving to a 6-point cage next year.

It's starting to look like a race car though!

 

[Swedbrick]

Took another week of to jam out some progress, starting by pulling the N/A engine to make space for the B230FT

Scored a set of JFZ brake calipers to go with 280mm front and 240mm rear vented discs in the future, to make sure the thing stops. These should clear my preferred 15x7j wheel setup, for which I recently also got a set of toyo semi-slicks.

To go along with the stopping, I got going on the going, swapping over the 360 input shaft (left) to my good open differential volvo 340 M45R (right).

In theory this was a pull and go, just pull out the shaft and your set, according to the internet that is.

So much for theory, it requires removing the bearing cups on both sides of the countershaft to drop it, and then you can pull it out.

Getting the cups to stay in place afterwards is a bit of an ordeal, as illustrated by the hammer holding it whilst I put the new front section on. Fortunately the M45/M46/M47 seal kit gasket did fit for this part of the conversion. Sorry no good pictures, given all was covered in atf.

When I moved to the rear however, the gasket did not fit, well partly.

So I got the aviation sealant out, gave both sides a thick coating as the surfaces were a bit rougher than on my m90 which I sealed with the same stuff.

All set, a good open differential M45R and a good welded differential M45R, so I can go to the track and the dirt.

 

[Swedbrick]

Moved on with pulling the rear axle to get ready for the last structural rust repairs, the rear jacking points.

Jacking point removal commenced, these typically tear away from the load, letting in water.

Whilst having a coffee break I came up with something that might work for the exhaust. A 3 inch downpipe and muffler to twin 2.5 inch sidepipes, basically had all the stuff already

Yeah this will do nicely!

Also fixed this piece of rear frame rail

And the last piece in the wheel wells

The edges and other small cosmetic things will be done when I paint the thing. First I need to get the cage and driveline sorted

Oh yeah and I forgot, but also got this neat cam gear for the square tooth belt. Should be fun to play around with the timing of the RSI cam.!

 

[Swedbrick]

Got the new transmission in after tapping the engine support theads in the diff, almost forgot how heavy these are, but managed to get it all aligned under the car with the transfer tube and the splines on the internal axle. Shifts like it's supposed to, that's a relief!

Put in the turbo engine, forgot the sensor thingy in the bellhousing, pulled it out again, cut the bellhouse and got it all together.

Cleaned up the main bar and put in the cross and harness bars, will also add in a lateral bar for extra support when the pedestals are redone.

Old pedestals gone, new ones awaiting a weld. The old ones didn't really center the tube on the pedestal, these should.

Hammered out the shock towers to receive reinforcement plates with force concentrators for the cage.

Did what I should have done initially and got all the rust cut out to restore the strength properly.

Other side was similar, just less terrible in terms of rust. By now this car has truly earned the 'Gebakje' (crumbly pastry) name.

Got super lucky and found what might be this cars original hatch, with glt spoiler. Only had to fix the latch (all of these fail oddly). Also put the original hood back on, slowly starting to consider going the sleeper route somewhat.

 

[NickN]

Very nice update! Looking forward for the result.