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Tailpipe always smoking...

The fuel in the baggies look fairly close to each other :-(:-(:-(

While you're testing things, you can test the spark using the same MS testmodes menu. I doubt there's any problem, but it's another bit of data. You'll need to lay 4 spare plugs out on a grounded sheet of metal - maybe the valve cover? or maybe a sheet of tinfoil? The spark, and injector, test setup allows you to test a specific coil/injector, or to sequence between all 4. For the spark test, start with a really low dwell time, say 0.3ms, and adjust it up until you get a nice bright spark. Then compare the spark on all 4 plugs.

Going back to the suggestion that maybe the head was ported and broke into an oil galley, or there was a casting defect/void, you could unplug the injectors, remove the plugs, and crank it for a while to build&hold full oil pressure. Let it sit for a couple minutes then use a borescope to look at the piston tops to see if there's any oil accumulation.

Maybe the engine experts can comment if a broken oil ring could cause the fouled plug, but still have very good compression and leakdown numbers?
 
with the intake off and injectors unhooked, one could see if oil is coming down the intake guides as well with the same sorta test. pop the plugs out so it doesn't drag the battery as hard (altho it doesn't really matter if you have a charger). maybe hit #3 with some brake cleaner first to clean it a little so anything fresh is obvious.

I have a feeling this is going to be something hilariously simple in the end, but man it's a circuitous route to get there (or its going to be the wildest thing ever)
 
The fuel in the baggies look fairly close to each other :-(:-(:-(

While you're testing things, you can test the spark using the same MS testmodes menu. I doubt there's any problem, but it's another bit of data. You'll need to lay 4 spare plugs out on a grounded sheet of metal - maybe the valve cover? or maybe a sheet of tinfoil? The spark, and injector, test setup allows you to test a specific coil/injector, or to sequence between all 4. For the spark test, start with a really low dwell time, say 0.3ms, and adjust it up until you get a nice bright spark. Then compare the spark on all 4 plugs.

Going back to the suggestion that maybe the head was ported and broke into an oil galley, or there was a casting defect/void, you could unplug the injectors, remove the plugs, and crank it for a while to build&hold full oil pressure. Let it sit for a couple minutes then use a borescope to look at the piston tops to see if there's any oil accumulation.

Maybe the engine experts can comment if a broken oil ring could cause the fouled plug, but still have very good compression and leakdown numbers?
I'm getting set up for this coil/spark test now... I was kinda wondering if it could be a wire or a coil? or if either of those could cause the issue I'm having with fouling the #3? time will tell. reporting back soon
 
with the intake off and injectors unhooked, one could see if oil is coming down the intake guides as well with the same sorta test. pop the plugs out so it doesn't drag the battery as hard (altho it doesn't really matter if you have a charger). maybe hit #3 with some brake cleaner first to clean it a little so anything fresh is obvious.

I have a feeling this is going to be something hilariously simple in the end, but man it's a circuitous route to get there (or its going to be the wildest thing ever)
Damn Kenny I wish i had done this while the intake was still off... I already did some necessary cleanup.. (installed a billet breather box from sts thats been on my shelf, and pulled the solid third motor mount in favor of a soft third motor mount. the vibrations have been driving me crazy) I know this is going to be something simple too... I'm just so at a loss. I do so appreciate your input and everyone's willing ness to get through this with me.
 
did the spark test... that was pretty cool.. I wish i could post a video but i don't know how. I strapped all plugs to the fuel rail, and got a good shot of each of them. it all looks pretty even. I will say though that the test was a little irregular in that even when i sparked a single plug, all of the others were getting some stray occasional sparks. but the one spark plug that was indicated in the test was definitely sparking prominent as it should. maybe there is just some cross static during this test? I've never used it before but it was pretty cool.


Untitled by turbojose, on Flickr

Untitled by turbojose, on Flickr
 
I have done so much taking apart and testing, I think I need to put in a new set of plugs and take it for a drive again just to get a reference again. too many variables working.

but as a recap: there was definitely issues with the valve seals on all stems. Issue solved.

I still have smoke out of the tail pipe. I'm gonna report back after my next drive. I'm running low on new spark plugs too. LOL.
 
Great spark picture! :cool:

I will say though that the test was a little irregular in that even when i sparked a single plug, all of the others were getting some stray occasional sparks. but the one spark plug that was indicated in the test was definitely sparking prominent as it should. maybe there is just some cross static during this test?
That's strange, and a little worrisome, but I highly doubt it's related to the fouled plug. If you're selecting a single plug to test, not seq, it really should be sparking only that plug. What was the dwell time setting? I almost wonder if there's a bug in the MS3 spark test code. [If you ever do the spark testing again and see the errant sparks, you could try unplugging the coil under test and see if the other sparks go away. If they do, then it's probably an electrical EMI noise issue from the exposed sparks.]

What coils are you using, and how/where are the +12v and ground(s) wired?
 
Great spark picture! :cool:


That's strange, and a little worrisome, but I highly doubt it's related to the fouled plug. If you're selecting a single plug to test, not seq, it really should be sparking only that plug. What was the dwell time setting? I almost wonder if there's a bug in the MS3 spark test code. [If you ever do the spark testing again and see the errant sparks, you could try unplugging the coil under test and see if the other sparks go away. If they do, then it's probably an electrical EMI noise issue from the exposed sparks.]

What coils are you using, and how/where are the +12v and ground(s) wired?
I do have the test for spark still staged. I can try again like you said to determine if I have even more issues. lol. It’s just one problem after another. I will say that I gwlt
Like the injector test was similar…. When testing one injector I did get some errant light spraying from other injectors. And when I did it in sequence they all sprayed the same.

I’m using the GM LS1 coil packs. The grounds are all to a head mounted intake bolt with most other grounds. And the 12v is from a 20 amp fuse I have in an underhood aux fuse/relay box.
 
When testing one injector I did get some errant light spraying from other injectors.
This all is sounding like you might need to check and make sure your ground path is good.
The grounds are all to a head mounted intake bolt with most other grounds.
Make sure the head to firewall ground strap is ok. Doesn't matter how well it's grounded to the head if the head isn't grounded. Maybe run a temporary extra ground to be absolutely sure - jumper cable from intake to battery ground or a strut bolt?
 
Great spark picture! :cool:


That's strange, and a little worrisome, but I highly doubt it's related to the fouled plug. If you're selecting a single plug to test, not seq, it really should be sparking only that plug. What was the dwell time setting? I almost wonder if there's a bug in the MS3 spark test code. [If you ever do the spark testing again and see the errant sparks, you could try unplugging the coil under test and see if the other sparks go away. If they do, then it's probably an electrical EMI noise issue from the exposed sparks.]

What coils are you using, and how/where are the +12v and ground(s) wired?

yeah that's odd, but I haven't ever run a test like that either. I wonder if it's over-dwell discharge on the other coils? (it should be reasonably consistent though if thats what it is, so maybe not)

I tend to think it's related to the test more than normal reality as well, but that is interesting.
in terms of grounds, I would check and maybe run a bigger ground from the engine straight to battery negative if there is concern about insufficient grounds. The injectors occasionally triggering is also very strange.

dumb question, is the firmware on the ms up to date? I'd be surprised if there was such a bug floating around in there, but hell we're in it this far :ROFLMAO:
 
This all is sounding like you might need to check and make sure your ground path is good.

Make sure the head to firewall ground strap is ok. Doesn't matter how well it's grounded to the head if the head isn't grounded. Maybe run a temporary extra ground to be absolutely sure - jumper cable from intake to battery ground or a strut bolt?
I'm going to run through the grounds tonight and report if I find anything stupid going on. I believe i have a large gauge ground running from the head to the battery as well. I wouldn't put it past something coming loose. its been on gremlin after another.
 
I'm going to run through the grounds tonight and report if I find anything stupid going on. I believe i have a large gauge ground running from the head to the battery as well. I wouldn't put it past something coming loose. its been on gremlin after another.

Can you sketch/draw out your wiring and ground paths?

You could have a ground loop causing issues, but you’d probably see that in erroneous sensor feedback as well.
 
Great spark picture! :cool:


That's strange, and a little worrisome, but I highly doubt it's related to the fouled plug. If you're selecting a single plug to test, not seq, it really should be sparking only that plug. What was the dwell time setting? I almost wonder if there's a bug in the MS3 spark test code. [If you ever do the spark testing again and see the errant sparks, you could try unplugging the coil under test and see if the other sparks go away. If they do, then it's probably an electrical EMI noise issue from the exposed sparks.]

What coils are you using, and how/where are the +12v and ground(s) wired?
sorry I missed the dwell info on this earlier. I was running the test at 5ms of dwell, thats where the spark looked the best, and I was trying the test at different RPM levels between 1600rpm and 7000rpm. and the errant sparks happened in all testing RPM's Maybe i should reflash the firmware? i did notice when i pulled some logs from the sd card, it wasn't entirely usable. maybe that was related to a bug in the firmware or a bad upload. I did flash the firmware about 3 months ago. maybe my problems can be traced back to that last upload.
 
yeah that's odd, but I haven't ever run a test like that either. I wonder if it's over-dwell discharge on the other coils? (it should be reasonably consistent though if thats what it is, so maybe not)

I tend to think it's related to the test more than normal reality as well, but that is interesting.
in terms of grounds, I would check and maybe run a bigger ground from the engine straight to battery negative if there is concern about insufficient grounds. The injectors occasionally triggering is also very strange.

dumb question, is the firmware on the ms up to date? I'd be surprised if there was such a bug floating around in there, but hell we're in it this far :ROFLMAO:
I may need some instruction on reloading firmware. I know I did update it about 3 months ago, but maybe thats why my last logs i sent to you were unreadable? I think I should flash it again for good measure.

Also gonna up the size of the ground to the battery from the head. its currently a 12 gauge. I think i will go up to an 8. and make sure its solid

wondering if there is any value in taking a voltage reading on all coils during the test to see if the voltage is fluctuating even on the coils that are not sparking?
 
I just posted a question about the extra sparks/squirts on the msextra.com forum - https://www.msextra.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=83306

I'd hold off on making any changes until someone confirms, or denies, that the issue is unique to your engine. If you have an oscilloscope and know how to trigger it on a single event, you could try to capture one of the stray sparks/squirts by probing a spark or injector MS3 wire.

Looking at the msextra downloads section, the latest MS3 released code is v1.6.2 from Dec 3, 2025, so you should have the latest. And there are known issues with the SD card logging, but I don't think I've seen any posts about problems with USB/serial port logging.
 
I just posted a question about the extra sparks/squirts on the msextra.com forum - https://www.msextra.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=83306

I'd hold off on making any changes until someone confirms, or denies, that the issue is unique to your engine. If you have an oscilloscope and know how to trigger it on a single event, you could try to capture one of the stray sparks/squirts by probing a spark or injector MS3 wire.

Looking at the msextra downloads section, the latest MS3 released code is v1.6.2 from Dec 3, 2025, so you should have the latest. And there are known issues with the SD card logging, but I don't think I've seen any posts about problems with USB/serial port logging.
Hey Bob. quick update on the spark testing.... I was tracing some grounds down, and although i increased the size of the main ground from the head to the battery. it was a 10gauge, and I up'd it to an 8 guage, but it looked liked it was great. there didn't appear to be any issues with the previous grounds.

For the test however, I noticed from the pictures above, the fuel rail is not mounted or grounded. so although the spark plugs are zip tied to the fuel rail, the rail has a very weak ground. I mounted the fuel rail and re-did the test, and all functioned as it should. Every spark test only sparked the indicated spark plug. and there were no errant sparks.

look at this stupidness! lol there is a noticeable gap where a bolt should hold the rail to the intake, and on back side, there is only a zip tie holding the rail in place to ground. what was i thinking!
Untitled by turbojose, on Flickr

Thank you so much for all of your help Bob. I apologize that it was my bad testing procedures that caused this issue.
 
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