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The Boost Goose (T6 swapped 760)

244tiCanuck said:
Haven't dynoed it and I'm still running conservative timing and probably way more water/meth than I need. Don't want to blow it up. Yes, it peaks at 28psi and tapers off to like 26 at 7000rpm. Once I can tune it I'll wind it out to 8000rpm, but I think I'm running out of turbo at that point.
When it's cool out (like 10c) it will spin the tires in 4th gear. It's sketchy.
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Woah!! You have a tranny/clutch killer in your hands there!!
 
Thanks for the ride yesterday! Both your and your brothers cars are looking great. Certainly gave me the motivation to keep working on mine!

Fastest Volvo I think I've ever been in!

Jordan
 
DaleGribble said:
Amazing build man! I'm still trying to scrape together money for my Redblock 740
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I am of the opinion that a 6 cyl whiteblock is a more cost effective way to make good streetable power than a redblock, these days.
Pretty well every redblock needs pistons and machine work, whereas nearly every whiteblock can get away with cleaning and re-assembly with chinese rods. Then there is the head flow advantage. I'd rather have 24 valves than 8, and and extra 2 firing events per rev as well as an extra 500ccs.
To make good power you gotta swap the transmission on either, costs about the same for a redblock or a whiteblock. Gotta do standalone, costs about the same (maybe $8 more in connectors and pins for a 6 cyl vs. a 4).
To make good power with a redblock you have to sacrifice low end torque and drivability.
For less than the cost of assembling a fresh redblock I have a whiteblock that drives just like my BMW does off boost, and handles 28psi.
 
Drove the car all summer, had some fun, traps 111 in the 1/4 on just the street tune and worn out 225 section street tires. Wheel hop is a SERIOUS issue, can't launch the thing at all. Going to do the whole rear end in stiff poly bushings and solid mount the diff to the subframe. That will come a bit later, maybe in the next couple weeks when it's too cold to do anything else other than work in the shop.
For now, I've installed a remote filter and thermostatic controlled oil cooler, I mounted the filter stand to the right front lower part of the block, where the axle support bearing would go in an FWD application.
Here are some pictures.




Mounting plate

The holes in the filter stand were 5/16-24 fine thread, I couldn't get my hands on any bolts. Non metric stuff is for assholes.
I shoved some m6x1 helicoils in there because they fit that hole closely enough, the threads bind a bit but that's fine because then the bolts won't back out. It's a feature, not a bug.


Visible here on the outlet from the filter to the engine is a combination oil temp and pressure sensor to wire to the ecumaster.

All done. Using a Wix filter (MANN-Hummel) for a Ford Windsor small block. Between the bigger filter and the hoses and stuff I've added nearly a litre to the oil capacity.


The MKM pendulum shifter I'm using wore out on the lower pivot where the shift linkage goes in to it. It's kind of a poor design, it's just drilled in steel and the linkage is also steel. The OE BMW shifters have a bushing in the bottom. I cut it off and welded a nice clevis pivot in place, but I didn't take pictures. Just mentioning it in case anyone else is going to use that shifter. Plan on modifying it or using something else.
 
A continuation;
Wired up the combo oil pressure and temp sensor to the ECUMaster, configured the RealDash app to display them.
Needed to wire in a pullup resistor for the temp sensor portion, didn't have anything but SMD resistors. Used a 150ohm as it would give the widest range. Soldered it into some 22awg wire, covered in heat shrink and then wired from the 5v to the sensor output. Works great.

Testing to make sure my voltage divider calculations were right, should be 2.091 volts at 20C, so it looks bang on.

Deutsch connector with resistor looped in there.

A little video showing it all working.

Should have updates on the suspension over the next month or something. Doing the poly bushings in the rear, including subframe bushings, also replacing front control arms with the aluminum ones (less unsprung weight) from an early 760 and poly bushings, as well as converting to 12th generation F150 RWD front sway bar links. They're the ball joint style rather than the squishy bushing style, should fit directly with the early 760 style control arms.
 
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Didn't get to doing the suspension stuff, but did another little project I was meaning to do.
Purple Heart wooden lock knobs. Because why not.
They're not perfect, and they're not identical to each other, but they're close enough. If I did it again I'd get a piece of HSS and grind it to the profile for the head instead of freehanding it with a file.
Yes I do this on my metal lathe. Purple Heart lends itself to this technique.
They'll turn the proper maroon colour when they resin in the wood oxidizes a bit more.







I didn't take a picture of it in the car because I got home before I remembered I should have. I'll do it later.
I ordered some used maroon seats from a 2018 Lexus RC350 F sport that I'm putting in, I'll get a picture of the lock knows when I document that install. They're heated and cooled, power seats, they don't need canbus to work, and the pair was $650 CAD. They should be easy to mount and easy to wire.
 
My reupholstered 960 seats were kind of crap. Looked pretty okay, but not very supportive, especially during cornering. I looked into aftermarket seats, but to get anything in the right color I was looking at either custom builds or cheap stuff. Even the cheap stuff (Braum Racing) was going to be like $1500 CAD for a pair of maroon/burgundy seats. Then I'd have vinyl, manual non-heated seats. Not a fan.
Then I noticed in a parking lot, a Lexus coupe with a maroon interior, sporty looking seats and they had perforated leather. I looked in to it, was a 2015ish to 2022ish Lexus RC350 F-sport. Started looking around and found a pair of the seats locally at a wrecker for $650 for the pair, with intact side airbags (I'm not using 'em, but some places were trying to sell the seats "needing minor repair" with blown out airbags...).
The seats are pretty standard as far as the power adjustments go, but they're heated and cooled, and they're leather centers. They also have a very slim base, so they can sit nice and low. They also have substantial side-bolsters. They remind me of the Recaros in my old S4.

Here is one compared to my drivers' seat. These also have the benefit of still looking a little like a Volvo seat. Comparable to some of the newer R sport stuff.


I cut the mounting feet off of the seat rails and then welded some flat bar on to extend the footprint to match the 760.




The wiring for the power seat is the same as the Volvo. It gets +12v, ground and switched ignition. I just removed the connector shell from the Volvo seat harness and crimped new JPT ends on the Lexus seat wires.

Handy dandy JPT terminals. Most common terminals in old Euro cars.

Connector shell on the Lexus seat wires.


Drivers' seat in the car.


SO much of an improvement in comfort and side support over any RWD Volvo seat ever made. The seat base is a lot shorter than something like a P2R seat as well, so it gets me sitting lower in the car which is good, my helmet was hitting the roof with the stock seat in the lowest position.

I still need to come up with some sort of control for the heating and cooling. Both get a low side PWM signal. The frequency doesn't seem to matter much, but the duty cycle determines the fan speed for the cooling, and the heaters need to be switched as well because they get too hot if they're just continuously powered. Both have a control box and the control wire gets pulled to ground to activate.
I guess it's time to learn how to use an Arduino, unless there's some simpler way to make this work. I have a 3d printer now, so I was thinking of trying to make some OEM-ish looking switches or control panel for the seat climate control.
 
244tiCanuck said:
The wiring for the power seat is the same as the Volvo. It gets +12v, ground and switched ignition. I just removed the connector shell from the Volvo seat harness and crimped new JPT ends on the Lexus seat wires.

Handy dandy JPT terminals. Most common terminals in old Euro cars.

Connector shell on the Lexus seat wires.
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it looks like you have a kit if electrical connectors there - do you have a recommended set you’ve found handy to have?
I have a 93 960 Wagon I’m going to need to do some work in.
 
jmiles said:
it looks like you have a kit if electrical connectors there - do you have a recommended set you’ve found handy to have?
I have a 93 960 Wagon I’m going to need to do some work in.
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It's not a kit I bought, I bought a parts sorting case and filled it. I get the terminals, housings and seals from Digikey. They're a fraction of the cost of buying the stuff from automotive suppliers. Most of the stuff you'll find in a 90s Volvo is going to be junior power timer (JPT) or micro-timer, or generic spade terminals. I also harvest connector shells from parts cars and junkyards.
Go on digikey and search JPT or junior power timer and be overwhelmed with the selection of stuff. I just buy pins and terminals for a couple wire sizes, as well as the seals for underhood stuff.
 
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