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The Buchka 242 Fake Racecar

As usual, the workmanship is just stunning (and humbling). So much detail.

(BTW, is that F150 in a CVic chassis? I think I've seen it elsewhere on the web)
 
As usual, the workmanship is just stunning (and humbling). So much detail.

(BTW, is that F150 in a CVic chassis? I think I've seen it elsewhere on the web)

Thanks dude! Yes that's a '64 F250 on an '08 police interceptor chassis. Karl, Duder, myself, and a few other friends built it as a shop truck. We have a build thread here on the Grassroots Motorsport forum if you want to see more detail.

The foot pedal that came with the bead roller was a real piece of ****. Karl and I spent an evening upgrading to a much nicer SSC Controls TIG pedal and an actual speed controller brain box from Automation Direct. The upgrade was absolutely worth doing, you can actually regulate the speed now instead of having to choose between too fast or way too fast. We had to body-lift the half-ass enclosure to fit everything but it works like a dream now.
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Part of closing out the firewall was dealing with these goofy corners at the bases of the a-pillars. I decided to weld in some formed pieces of 4130 instead of tearing my hair out trying to fit and rivet aluminum. Started with a piece of 1" notched tube to make a good area for the aluminum to terminate to.
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Definitely not eligible for instagram #weldporn but still acceptable for a home gamer like me.
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The CAD model of the car just isn't accurate enough to laser cut pieces like this so I went with the cardboard method instead. I probably spent more time making the templates for these panels than the parts themselves which feels a bit wrong but I found it pays off 100%
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Welded in this Z flange and some left over rivet flanges from the main hoop to fasten the last few pieces.
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Last firewall section. The drivers side looks the same, just mirrored.
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That wrapped up the firewall on both sides. I left the lower sections long for now, they will get trimmed, bent, and riveted to the underfloor at a later date.
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Next up was the inner floorpan on the passenger side. The clecos are holding a Z shaped stiffener that will also get riveted to the underfloor and will hopefully keep that area from caving in when you step there to climb in or out. Also visible is the footrest, the front PDU, and a grounding junction box. Most of the wiring endpoints in the cabin have been at least mocked up so we can measure for final harness lengths and draw up a formboard. Karl has been killing the game on harness schematics, we're both pretty pumped to start wiring.
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Scored some tools and rivets from a friend. These will come in handy when it comes time to attach all the sheet metal. The gun leaks a little oil but I have a rebuild kit on the way already.
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Got the driver's side floor pan partially complete and tacked in.
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After way too much back and forth with Woodward Machine I finally got the right u-joints and splined stubs for the steering column. The only rub was the partially blocked spline on the 240 ZF rack. My original plan was to use a 240 lower u-joint but it was just too bulky so I had to go with the slimmer Woodward part. To make it fit I had to remove six serrations on the spline.
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I repurposed some junk in the shop to make a clamping block for the u-joint and totally free handed this broaching tool on the end of a piece of drill rod. Using the lathe as a shaper and some careful eyeballing I was able to shave down the offending spline serrations.
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Frankly I'm shocked this worked as well as it did. My expectations were very low and for the amount of prep I did this really had no right to work at all.
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I then welded up the lower column and installed it. The car now has functional steering and I stood there turning the wheel, watching the rack travel back and forth with a dumbass grin on my face for way longer than I care to admit.
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Watching your work makes me want to drop all my tools in the dumpster and start on woodburning.

For me, this is beyond amazing!
 
The steering column is all woodward-spec .750x20 spline stuff except for the rack end which is the modified .750x48. If you order the u-joints from Woodward directly they are built to order and you can get any combination of yokes you want. I would not recommend taking these things apart and trying to combine your own, I've tried and they are quite easy to damage. Also, definitely get the zinc plating option, it's only $8/ea extra and the bare ones rust very quickly.
 
The steering column is all woodward-spec .750x20 spline stuff except for the rack end which is the modified .750x48. If you order the u-joints from Woodward directly they are built to order and you can get any combination of yokes you want. I would not recommend taking these things apart and trying to combine your own, I've tried and they are quite easy to damage. Also, definitely get the zinc plating option, it's only $8/ea extra and the bare ones rust very quickly.

Perfect. Thanks so much.
 
Short update on what's been going on the last few months. We have started a big push to get the bodywork tooled up and built. Neither of us have really worked with composites in this form before so it's been a steep learning curve. The process is laborious, brutally unforgiving to mistakes, and does not tolerate any corner cutting. It's hard to overstate how fussy you have to be at every step.

We started bodyworking a good condition flathood to use as a pattern for a mold. This picture is after adding coroplast flanging but before mold release agent or filleting wax. As shown was after block sanding the existing paint and some filler to 1000 grit. This turned out to be far from ideal, more on that later.
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Here's what it looked like after spraying tooling gelcoat and laying down eight plies of chopped strand mat along with a few plies of chop strand over pool noodles sliced in half lengthwise and hot-glued to the back of the laminate to act as stiffeners.
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We stripped the flanging off and got suited and booted to rough trim the first side of the mold.
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Here's the back side prepped for laminating. We blocked off all the openings with a mix of coroplast, flash breaker tape, and aluminum duct tape. All the important surfaces on this side were shot with high build polyester tooling primer and bodyworked to 1000 grit.
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Here's the back side of the tool after a similar laminate schedule to the top. Main difference here was switching to a vinylester tooling resin that tolerates being laminated in much thicker sections than the regular laminating resin we used for the top side.
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Here's more or less where the pain train of substandard plug prep and inexperience kicked in. After splitting the molds we ripped a bunch of poorly applied maaco paint off the hood. This required a bunch of remedial scraping and sanding to fix.
I think worst of all was the tooling gelcoat along the front edge of the hood, it was sprayed on too thin and "alligatored" a bunch. This was caused by the gelcoat not being thick enough to cure properly and getting dissolved by the subsequent application of resin on top. I spent about 16 hours grinding out, filling, and sanding gelcoat to fix the damage while not losing the crisp front edge of the hood mold.
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This was followed by days and days of wet sanding to 1600 grit and polishing. The final tool still has some mild swirl marks that I decided were inconsequential.
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A similar amount of sanding and polishing ardor was applied to the bottom side mold. It's hard to overstate how much time this takes.
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After many months of brain-melting fumes and work we were finally ready start laying up. This one was two plies of 3k 195gsm plain weave sandwiching a ply of 12k 700gsm twill. This laminate schedule was chosen to closely match the thickness of a stock hood which should make joining with the inner support frame easier
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All bagged up and ready to infuse epoxy
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This is right out of the tool. Super happy with this finish, I was doubting my own sanity while sanding and polishing but after seeing the results we really couldn't be happier.

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This hood skin is destined for my white 242 but we've already laid up another one for the race car. The street car hood is going to get a support frame off the inner mold but the race car hood will be a balanced, symmetrical, quasi-iso foam cored laminate
 
Awesome work! Does you materials already come with UV protective or is that a final added stage?
I assume the whole car will be painted? Or gonna leave some areas exposed? Or fully exposed? 😉

It's absolutely beautiful. I hope you're ready to keep turning down people who want them after posting these pics.
Nah man. Group buy incoming. They gotta fund the fake Race car somehow 😂
 
I want one of those bad enough to willingly pay actual money to rent the tooling and deal with the logistics of getting it to my garage and back to your shop (slightly less unrealistic than begging to buy one…probably).

Looks fantastic.
 
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