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The (build) story of a Greek (hopefully fast) 240 brick

Gary you definitely should drive it next time. Or i have to make you in some way :oogle:

Just a fun fact.. If the machine shop makes the rings 2.5mm out of INOX, you get a swollen finger if you want to get it to sand it by hand down to 1.3mm. It really helps having it at this size putting new seals and pump in place, but i am not sure what the swollen finger can be useful to :-P
Well, in my case id and od were correct..but the ring was taller than it should, to allow me to install the pressure pipe without bending it.
The story continues from post #112

The front engine view that will be hidden by the radiators. Looks nice this way (and .. more complicated than stock) despite it is not complete !

Update 09/02/2022

It has been a long time since the story was updated, however the progress has been really slow through all this time ! Hopefully it will progress a bit faster now.

  • Condenser swap: Since a new compressor was chosen, a new more efficient parallel flow condenser was mandatory. The model that was chosen was Climaparts CNFP1624 which is sized 16"x24"x20mm.

    The old SPAL pusher fan was used, however it was mounted on the condenser on the side that is in line with the radiator's fan hole, so it transfers less heat on the cooling system. Also the fan was mounted in a distance from the condenser core so that the vibrations won't punch any holes on the delicate aluminium core.

  • Blown recirculation bellow & heater core replacement: Since the whole A/C system is updated .. the recirculation bellow had to be fixed. It was blown due to the vacuum check valve fail so the 2bars of turbo pressure went through. Because the dashboard was out it was an opportunity to clean up the evaporator (cleaned outside and flushed internally), change the heater core to a new one (just in case), a new blower motor and blades, and resistor .. a complete HVAC box overhaul in a few words.

    The source of all troubles:

    Demolition time:

    Finished product:

    Why not replacing the engine's firewall insulation with something that will keep the cabin quieter and cooler ?

    Back together:

  • Dashboard cracks fix: The dashboard was cracked in several spots, so .. why not trying to improve its appearance? Maybe it will crack again, but for now the result is good. Two of the cracks were huge, which turned out that these were the easiest to fix. On each side of the crack a 2mm hole was drilled so that they won't keep opening up (in theory). Toilet paper never tears correctly at the perforated spots .. so why would a dashboard crack? :rofl:

    The weatherstrip adhesive was used to fill up the holes, while the vinyl repair kit was used to touch up the fixes.

  • Heater Valve: The old heater valve (which also featured a compensation coil) would not seal up perfectly, so it was replaced with the one that Wagonmeister sells. Perfect product well documented kit and a great guy. Always happy to support him!

Continued at post #130 --->LINK<---
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The story continues from post #129

Update 30/8/2022

  • Rerouting A/C Lines: The nastiest thing to see in the 240's engine bay (and also makes life difficult for doing things on the engine) is the thick A/C return line that was routed over the engine. The main idea behind the modifications made was rerouting this hose along with updating the system to r134a (hoses, o-rings, compressor, drier etc). Apart from the need to build new A/C lines which are longer since they go around the engine bay, the stock windscreen washer bottle had to be dumped since there was no space for them to be routed past it. The stock bottle was cut and shortened, but it is made out of Polyethylene which was proved that can not be melted to stick, there are no glues to be watertight, so another solution has to be found. The stock bottle has a very unique shape which is difficult to be copied in an aluminium construction, can not be 3D printed since it is not watertight, so this problem may be proved one of the weirdest on the project given the tight space due to the intercooler's outlet hose. Still working on it ..

    New type r134a expansion valve. Never bothered to adjust the old one.

    A trinary r134a valve was added which provides 3 functions: (a) has a fan switch that turns on/off the fan automatically depending on the coolant pressure (b) can disengage compressor if overpressure is detected and (c) disengage compressor if low pressure is detected.

    Before installing the dashboard back in the car, a good vacuum was pulled to see if there are any leaks. Fingers crossed everything is good.

  • A/C RPM Switch: To make sure the new compressor won't be shot if forgotten on during any unexpected road battles, a dedicated adjustable RPM switch was bought from this nice guy: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/332825134965. It was installed in series with the stock thermostatic switch and will disengage the compressor's clutch in given RPMs, so this will act as a compressor rev limiter.

A note related to the new (very nice) Turbobricks forum (great job Dana!) & to this thread:

The new forum allows the posts to include up to 20 images and/or 10.000 characters. The way I followed till now was to edit the old posts and add up to 50 images which was the older system's limit which also probably had no limit to characters. So now I will follow the new system's limitations and use a new post for each update. This will be probably easier to read and comment.

However, I can not correct some little mistakes which were spotted into the older posts (due to the data transfer into the new system). For example some ' or " characters appear like question marks. Also the my photobucket account is now closed so some images in the replies may not be displayed correctly and the link in the first post is no longer working. Only Flickr from now on.

Finally, the last (big) post (#112) was split into 3 different posts (#112, #129 and 130) just to test this new function and be able to include links for the new updates (as usual) in the end of each post.

Continued at post #136 --->LINK<---
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Nice little update there Aris!

Curious what you end up finding on the fuel system fiasco once you get all that resolved as well.

Now that you mentioned it .. a word of advice for anyone using braided AN hoses for fuel delivery system:


So .. long story short, as you may have seen in the past, Aeroflow braided AN hoses #8 for engine feed and #6 for return to the tank were installed. These lines have been on the car for 5-6 years, while the last 3 years they were drained from fuel due to the rebuild of the engine.

The last week after assembling almost everything on the car, it was decided to pour some 100 RON fuel in the tank and turn on the pump to prime the fuel system before turning the key, to check for any leaks.

Surprisingly, the fuel never made it past the 3 bar FPR because 2 out of 4 meters of the line were literally turned into a kitchen strainer. Fuel was squirting everywhere, flooding the garage. Such expensive lines were useless! Of course the return line when pressure tested was leaking like crazy as well. How do the stock fuel lines last for 50 years and these got wasted so soon ??

After contacting the seller and many others, it was found out that the hoses life count starts when they first get wet with fuel, and stops anywhere between 2 to 6 years no matter if they are being used or are full of fuel or are drained. Of course these can not be used with ethanol or any other "difficult" fuel.

The only thing that made the situation a bit better was that the lines kind of "vaporized"/cracked internally and did not produce any small pieces to block the filter-fuel rail-injectors etc.

So now PTFE lines and new hose ends (since they are not compatible to AN fittings) from NUKE are ordered.

Damn .. always something before the "big" moment !

Fingers crossed they will last a bit longer .. as everybody advertises ...
The story continues from post #130

Update 17/11/2023 (a bit delayed)
  • Replaced fuel lines with PTFE: As mentioned in post #133 all the fuel lines had to be replaced because the AN hoses failed badly. The new ones were ordered from NUKE, as well as new hose ends since the PTFE hoses are not compatible with the AN hose ends. The NUKE lines look of very good quality, they have nylon braiding outside of the stainless steel braiding so they don't scratch things, and they are much thinner than the AN lines and they are black. Also the guys fron NUKE are very nice and helpful.
The old lines that failed:​
NUKE setup:​
Comparisson between the two setups:​
  • Replaced the clutch master cylinder: The problem was discussed in this THREAD in detail. In short with the new clutch-flywheel setup, the old 740's master - slave cylinder cobination would not allow the full disengagement of the clutch, so the gears would not change easily. So the master cylinder was replaced with one by Wilwood with more piston travel at the same bore (part no 260-6089). Of course it needed a new line which was custom built, and some more parts. The mounting on the pedal was done by altering a 264's setup which now allows to adjust the pedal's height. The slave cylinder remained the same.
The old setup (740):​
The slave cylinder kept unchanged:​
This is how the required extra travel was calculated in order the clutch to disengage. The nut could change the total pin length:​
Part of the pedal assembly taken from a 264. The front part was removed, but the U shaped piece did not have the same thread as the new wilwood rod. So it was welded-drilled-tapped to match the threads:​
  • Added 2 rear seatbelts. No pictures here but anyway this is not very interesting..
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