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the four eyed pig volvo 242

shifter arm has started to make progress in the time between bursts of motivation to work on the everlasting rust.
I decided to have the arm bend towards the driver and flatten the sides with the intent to make it look kind of like those old muscle car hurst shifters.
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Body work looks like a decent start. What did you do on the backside of the visible repair?
I have finally begun working on the inner fender portion of the rust repair, and have used rust resistant primer on the backsides of already replaced panels.
here is a photo showing a, half completed mock up panel that is going to be welded on to cover the gaping hole in the fender liner.
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some photos of the leaking gas tank that was (incredibly mediocrely) "fixed" by the previous owner
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please ignore the bondo bubble and still very present patch of rust poking out from the panel to the right, that was one of the first rust repair attempts and will be corrected at some point. I am still learning
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some more updates on what I have been up to lately, fresh port and light polish on the 91 turbo manifold to better mate up with the inlet side of the k24.
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I have begun swapping the taillights out for the (in my opinion) better looking 6 pannel units
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the 4cl t5 is now mounted to the b21, the shifter is in place and boot is installed. I had to put it in backwards to accommodate the custom shifter I made, which is admittedly pretty wonky, but it ultimately feels nice.
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I had to lathe a piece of pvc to make it so the skinny shifter arm had a proper seal with the boot. but it fits pretty decent overall.
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clutch is squeaking like a m**********r and I think it is coming from the pedal, did anyone else have this problem, how did you go about fixing it?
been busy prepping the block for the rebuild, getting it ready for paint (red ofc) just waiting on some automotive paint stripper.
was planning on using a clear engine enamel on the oil pan because I thought it'd look cool, we will se how it turns out.
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got me a free chrome gl grill of of marketplace, I think I like it but I am not fully sure which I prefer yet.
I have also been considering hitting the headlight housings with some fine grit sandpaper to remove the glossiness, I kind of feel like it makes the car look like its wearing eyeliner as is.
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also I just cant cant seem to get the 6 panel taillights to all work properly, I think its an issue with the circuit board as it seems pretty worn at this point. does anyone know of some repairs that can help with conductivity for these units? or is it possible to buy new ones online?
 
also did my first mock-up of the turbo in the engine bay with my current b21 to get a sense of how the turbo needs to be clocked and where the downpipe needs to go.
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also I just cant cant seem to get the 6 panel taillights to all work properly, I think its an issue with the circuit board as it seems pretty worn at this point. does anyone know of some repairs that can help with conductivity for these units? or is it possible to buy new ones online?
You can buy the PCBs new. I’d just solder the bulb holders though. This is where the 5 panel lights are superior.

Also on the T5 shifter: it takes a lot of trial and error for the shifter position to feel right, and it looking weird actually tracks, lol
 
Try to buy the genuine Volvo circuit boards for the tail lights. They are usually on ebay or may still be available through the GCP Volvo dealer parts chain. The aftermarket ones work but are much thinner and fragile than the original stuff.
 
blow off valve bracket is done, have not checked for clearance in engine bay yet, here's what I have so far.
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still pretty rough, will get ground down and painted in due time
 
I’m looking to make a flange for the outlet side of the turbo connecting to then downpipe, how thick should the flange be, would 3/8” be enough to hold well?
 
I have begun to tackle the frame rust, and frankly, its really not looking good. here's what has been going on.
I started by taking a wire wheel to the surface of the frame. I had previously sprayed it with a sort of rust inhibiter and I didn't want it to congeal on the grinding disk. after which I began grinding the surface down. which to my surprise, rather than sparking like normal steel, just kind of sent red dust into the air.
after which I found out that the surface was incredibly brittle. a hammer is all that it took to make the third image.
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after which I continued hammering cutting and chiseling the visibly rusty areas, which got me to this point.
since the crash triangle was in the way of cutting some of the rust out I de3cided to remove it, only to find a very disappointing rust patch not previously known to me
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which honestly seems like it wouldn't be such a big deal as I could just drop the gas tank to get to the spot. except for the fact that My car is sitting in the metal shop of my school, which is the only access to tools I have also seems fine, however the problem lies in the fact that my shop teacher not allow anything producing a gasoline smell (my school does not have an auto-mechanics shop/program, I am doing all of my work during metalshop class)
 
new set of wheels. didn't end up going with the explorer wheels. I have always wanted a set of these, I wanted these wheels before I knew I waned a volvo but I had never gotten a good chance to get a set.
just need to do a little fabrication to make the wheel adapters fit, a new set of rubber. (245/40/15 :unsure::unsure::unsure:)
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adapters are eBay specials but I got em off a guy for 100$ :e-shrug: didn't come with center hus for the wheels so I took down some aluminum roundstock (yet to be welded)
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I might decide to go with Loctite 620 bearing retaining compound. have also since increased the depth of the lip that makes contact with the adapter so that the retaining compound if I so chose to use it will bond better between the surfaces.
+ pic of all 4 center hubs
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also some progress on the downpipe and downpipe flange
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blow off valve bracket clears too!!!! wasnt sure wether or not it would work but it clears.
I was considoring making some sort of heat shield for the turbo if I have enough tie, it does kinds seem like the cast manifold is gonna heat the compressor side up quite a bit, does anyone have experience with
 
also frame rust repair is done (as much as I could do before school is done)
it is now to the point that I feel confident that it is safe (safe enough) to rip
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not very pretty but wont be seen much so its good enough for me.
 
more recent progress, mostly aesthetic improvements.
I personally much prefer the look of a colour matched front lip, although I might redo it later using a two stage paint instead of the one stage I used.
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I finally got around to buying some paint stripper to remove all the exess paint from the block
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block got painted
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re assembly has started, super exited to get it all back together.
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pistons arent in yet but I wanted to mock up the motor with the Yoshifab adjustable cam gear to see how it looks.
I am very satisfied and I think the kevlar timing belt looks sick.
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got my harmonic balancer painted and spent an hour carefully notching out the keyway so that it would work with the billet crank gear (also yoshifab)
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